I was having a jarring metal on metal clanging clunking when turning + going over bumps (basically suspension articulation) on the road. I could have sworn it was something in the front end and was worried my LBJ or tie road was going to break off.

Turns out it was a loose rear upper control arm mounting bolt to the frame! Turned it 1-2 turns to get it to 100 lb/ft, no more clunk!

I am constantly doing things to the runner. I had recently replaced a boot on the tie rod, put on 2nd gen sway bar links, and last year redid all my bushings in the front end.

3-4 months ago I had also loosened up and re-tightened the rear upper and lower control arms to relieve any potential binding.
I guess I didn’t tighten one of the bolts up all the way.

Just a little lesson for me that it’s really hard to tell where sounds and vibes are actually coming from and also super happy my front wheels aren’t going to fall off and I don’t need imminently need a new rack.






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Thought I solved it, but took some slightly off camber bumps at 20mph this weekend and the sound came back. I’m thinking maybe when I tightened it a few weeks back the rear suspension was getting some binding, and those bumps knocked it loose.

It is super hard to isolate it to the rear suspension. Everyone that rides with me thinks they feel it in the front, but I drove slowly and had a friend walk alongside the runner and to his disbelief he also heard it coming from the rear.

It’s really tough to get torque on the driver’s side nut for the rear LCA because the gas tank skid blocks you from getting a socket on it. I’m going to try to pick up some kind of breaker bar extension that I can use on a wrench so I can really torque that nut.

Then I’m going to jack up the rear and let the suspension droop, loosen the nuts and bolts completely to hopefully take out any binding, then tighten them down super tight.


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rear upper control arms are only 65lbs torque not 100lbs
the lowers are 105

PS I hate trying to find a clunk on a 4runner..... I always guess the wrong end .....so you arent alone

Tighten those links down at ride height, unless you have poly bushings or heims back there...

If you don't, you pre-stress all of the bushings and risk wearing them out much faster.

-Charlie

Thanks for the note, will do.


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I got up under the truck tonight to inspect and if possible tighten down the nuts on the rear LCAs to 100lbs.

I noticed when under the vehicle that the passenger LCA is cocked at an odd angle where the driver one is straight on.

It’s hard to get a good photo, but hopefully this shows it well enough.

Does this look like it would cause odd sounds? What’s the remedy? Loosen the bolt and hammer on the LCA with a rubber mallet to try to move it back?






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Short version: Completely removed the rear LCAs and put them back in at 110 lb/ft of torque, still clunking.

Long version: I took all the bolts & nuts off the rear LCAs and took the LCAs completely out. Checked out the bushings and they are in good shape, not rotted. I'm sure I could benefit from new poly bushings, but I don't think the bushings are the issue.

I then used PBlaster and wire brushed the threads until I could tighten the nut all the way down by hand. Reinstalled the LCAs (with the help of a ratchet strap to pull the axle closer 1/4" to line up the bolt holes - thx mtbtim for that tip from your video), then torqued to 110 lb/ft.

I read through a bunch of other threads, it seems like with this type of issue it usually goes 1 of 2 ways - it never gets solved, or it's something obvious like the front sway bar (which I'd previously removed and that didn't help) or shot LCA bushings (which are new whitelines as of last year) or loose LCA bolts (which I've checked several times but will re-check tonight).

I'm going to try loosening the front UCA bolts and retorqueing with the wheels on the ground since I think when I did those I torqued with the wheels in the air. I'm not super encouraged that that'll fix it, but worth a shot.

The other thing I might try is jacking it up, disconnecting the front lower shock bolt and moving around the suspension to try to recreate the sound.

have you checked your sway bar bushings and endlinks?

It looks like that bracket is broken. See towards the bottom of the picture where the metal overlaps on the bracket? I think you struck something with it, now its bent and cracked and when you flex the suspension that overlapped crack shifts, making your noise. You'll need to take that to a fabrication shop that knows what its doing with vehicles so they can get it straightened and welded back. Or you could just hammer it reasonably straight and weld that crack, but perfect symmetry would be much better.

S**t good eyes - if that’s true then I can’t believe I didn’t notice it. It does look like it in pictures. I’ll take a closer look tomorrow and if that’s the case then just weld it up myself.

Tonight I did loosen up my front UCAs and tighten them back down. When doing the driver side one I took the nut off and turned away to put some anti-seize on it, turned back and my damn UCA had shifted, almost popping the bushing completely out.

It threw me for a loop for a minute, but I used a pipe clamp to take up the slack until I could get the nut back on the threads to tighten it up.



Didn’t get a chance to take it for a proper test drive yet.


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After my rear end swap I was getting loosening CA bolts for quite a while. They just rattled, no clunking.

Took another look at that LCA mount and felt around a bit. I don’t think it’s cracked, I think it was just bad lighting. Seems like it came from the factory like that.

In the first pic you can see the seams are a little uneven and the light creates a shadow. In the next 2 you can see it’s still pretty solid








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I’ve been continuing to troubleshoot this sound and feel.

Replaced the rack guide bushing, tighter steering, but sound still there.

Checked all nuts and bolts at the front suspension.

I previously unhooked the sway bar and the sound was still there. Nonetheless I tried to change out sway bar bushings but the ones ES sent me are too big...

I’m really sick of chasing this down. I have new inner tie rods on the way since I know mine are worn, but I’m not hopeful that this will fix it.

I made a few videos tonight since I’m in the burbs and have access to a driveway to reproduce the sound (off camber suspension travel + turn). Going to upload those, it’s dark but I will try to make more tomorrow








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Here are the videos

https://youtu.be/siRkg8tcccU

https://youtu.be/uJDIV4-mGdM

https://youtu.be/Yxvt0lPQJOA

It’s not just a sound either, driver and passengers can feel it inside the vehicle


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I had a sway bar end link that was making the noise that I wish I had discovered BEFORE I replaced the ball joint I thought was the source.