06-08-2018, 01:59 PM
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#31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scramble
Maybe they are but you still need to check them & all tolorences. I'd hate to see you go through all of this work & then blow it up.
Someday I plan on buying a LCE Stage 3 3RZ or build it myself if I cant afford the long block. It'll be around $7000. If I did it myself I'd have to buy all of the tools to do it right. Yea! fat kid! LOL
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Yeah I plan on checking the gap when i get home tomorrow, once i find my feeler gauges. do i need to check them all or just a couple?
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06-08-2018, 02:10 PM
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#32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrydub10
Yeah I plan on checking the gap when i get home tomorrow, once i find my feeler gauges. do i need to check them all or just a couple?
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All!
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
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06-08-2018, 02:23 PM
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#33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scramble
All!
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gotcha, ok stupid question, but does that include the oil rings or no? sorry ive never had to check rings before. my dad would always be the one to do that stuff. this is my first FULL engine rebuild without him helping.
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06-08-2018, 04:13 PM
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#34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrydub10
gotcha, ok stupid question, but does that include the oil rings or no? sorry ive never had to check rings before. my dad would always be the one to do that stuff. this is my first FULL engine rebuild without him helping.
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It's not a stupid question, I've never rebuilt an engine but I did do cylinder work in school 35 years ago & have watched hundreds of engine building videos.
This is a good article on rings.
Gap Rap: How to Measure and Set Piston Ring End Gap - OnAllCylinders
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
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06-10-2018, 03:28 PM
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#35
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06-10-2018, 07:13 PM
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#36
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Im sure youve heard it before, but a standalone ECU would really be the way to go, you could get any size injectors and not have to worry about the stock ECU (not made for boost) messing with your timing under WOT since you are giving it skewed results from the sensors.
I would recommend getting a patch harness and a megasquirt 3 or really any good FIC
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06-11-2018, 12:37 PM
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#38
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Yeah ive heard haha, but I'm gonna have to deal with the piggyback for awhile since I would have to save up for the injectors and standalone. And my wife would kill me spending that much money on it right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by schmauster
Im sure youve heard it before, but a standalone ECU would really be the way to go, you could get any size injectors and not have to worry about the stock ECU (not made for boost) messing with your timing under WOT since you are giving it skewed results from the sensors.
I would recommend getting a patch harness and a megasquirt 3 or really any good FIC
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06-11-2018, 12:38 PM
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#39
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Funny thing is its actually caliper paint!! I couldn't find the engine enamel I wanted to, so I got that. Withstands greater heat temps too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scramble
Love that Blue! Same color I did my Calipers, Drums & alternator.
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06-11-2018, 12:40 PM
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#40
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Ok another silly question. Is there supposed to be play in between the connecting rods and crank? When I bolted them down I noticed you can still wiggle the rod a little bit.
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06-11-2018, 12:41 PM
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#41
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Oh also. I'm on hold until Friday. Accidentally broke a compression ring on piston 3. So I have to wait for the new ones to get here.  
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06-11-2018, 07:10 PM
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#42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrydub10
Ok another silly question. Is there supposed to be play in between the connecting rods and crank? When I bolted them down I noticed you can still wiggle the rod a little bit.
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Yes that is totally normal to be able to move them side to side enough that there is a clack sound. It acts as a thrust bearing keeping the rods centered.
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06-11-2018, 07:44 PM
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#43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrydub10
Yeah ive heard haha, but I'm gonna have to deal with the piggyback for awhile since I would have to save up for the injectors and standalone. And my wife would kill me spending that much money on it right now.
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A stand-alone almost has a 0% chance of passing smog though, if you are looking to keep it on the road.
I get my first smog after the piggyback in two months so here's to hoping. I hope they don't mind the wideband sensor either...
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06-18-2018, 01:37 AM
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#44
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Thanks for that!! And I plastigaged them and the clearance is within specs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by schmauster
Yes that is totally normal to be able to move them side to side enough that there is a clack sound. It acts as a thrust bearing keeping the rods centered.
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06-18-2018, 01:38 AM
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#45
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I have it registered in Idaho under my dads address so I dont have to worry about smog 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
A stand-alone almost has a 0% chance of passing smog though, if you are looking to keep it on the road.
I get my first smog after the piggyback in two months so here's to hoping. I hope they don't mind the wideband sensor either...
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