05-23-2018, 07:52 PM
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#1
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Taco manual hub swap, yea or nay?
I've seen Tim's video and I like the idea of not constantly turning CV joints so I'm interested in this mod when I convert to 4WD.
Anyone here who's done it and lives with it care to share how much they love it or was it more trouble than it was worth?
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
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05-23-2018, 07:54 PM
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#2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
I've seen Tim's video and I like the idea of not constantly turning CV joints so I'm interested in this mod when I convert to 4WD.
Anyone here who's done it and lives with it care to share how much they love it or was it more trouble than it was worth?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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It was more trouble than it was worth but I love it a ton anyway. Does that help?
I can actually feel the decrease in drag when hubs are unlocked. It's not a lot but noticeable.
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05-23-2018, 07:57 PM
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#3
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I did the warn manual hub conversion on my 2nd gen 4runner. I actually gained gas mileage and felt good about not being disabled by a broken CV scenario. what's the timeline on your swap?
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05-23-2018, 07:59 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
I've seen Tim's video and I like the idea of not constantly turning CV joints so I'm interested in this mod when I convert to 4WD.
Anyone here who's done it and lives with it care to share how much they love it or was it more trouble than it was worth?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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it does make maintenance on the front end a little more involved but not hard. since you have to get them dam cone washers off. brass bar/drift is now in your toolbox and you will learn how to get them off pretty quickly.
other than that I love it, would never go back to ADD style hubs for a off-road focused truck. if your not lifted or never go off-road it's totally not worth it.
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05-23-2018, 09:11 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZiggy
It was more trouble than it was worth but I love it a ton anyway. Does that help?
I can actually feel the decrease in drag when hubs are unlocked. It's not a lot but noticeable.
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My thought was to coordinate this mod along with the 4WD swapgrade, so it all happens at once vs. a special project. This way, I only need to do UBJs once and then install my SPD UCAs
Quote:
Originally Posted by ltsr
I did the warn manual hub conversion on my 2nd gen 4runner. I actually gained gas mileage and felt good about not being disabled by a broken CV scenario. what's the timeline on your swap?
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Did you do a write up of the Warn swap? What as the all in cost? Inquiring minds want to know
Timeline on the swap is pretty much whenever I get all the parts and the time, so between this month and 5 years lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad
it does make maintenance on the front end a little more involved but not hard. since you have to get them dam cone washers off. brass bar/drift is now in your toolbox and you will learn how to get them off pretty quickly.
other than that I love it, would never go back to ADD style hubs for a off-road focused truck. if your not lifted or never go off-road it's totally not worth it.
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This truck is my DD and offroad/overland rig, lifted 3+ inches. I like the idea of keeping wear on the CV joints to a minimum and I don't mind getting out to lock the hubs
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto -> 2WD 4runner Journal Thread
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05-24-2018, 07:13 PM
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#6
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Wouldn't put 600$ into the hubs alone, but for a couple hundred bucks in junkyard parts it's worth it. You'll never lose a CV boot again driving down the road.
A 4x4 swap is where they really shine though. Since you're already replacing a ton of stuff anyways if you can get your hands on a manual hub setup it'll make the swap easier. No plumbing or wiring, just drop it all in.
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05-24-2018, 08:26 PM
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#7
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It's kind of a pain because you'll need to get the knuckle assemblies off a truck that had manual hubs. You'll then need to press the manual hubs out of those knuckles and have them pressed into your knuckles along with the necessary tone rings and locking collars. This is the only way to get manual hubs and keep your ABS. Probably isn't worth the effort and time finding parts if you already have 4x4, but since you're converting, it's probably worth that little bit of additional effort.
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05-24-2018, 09:16 PM
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#8
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I think they are worth it.
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1999 Base model 4x4 3RZ 5 speed - added e-locker, front Aussie, dual cases with 4.7 front, manual hubs, Tundra/OME 861 springs, Shaved firewall (thanks Tyler James Inc), AssBurns rear links (run as 3 link),Limited interior w/ Mazda3 Grand Touring seats, Savage front and rear bumpers w/ winch, sliders, Thorley header w/ Magnaflow exhaust, SPC UCAs, 37s with 5.29 gears, roof rack and storage box, sport hood, BL and more. Linky
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05-24-2018, 09:47 PM
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#9
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The 2WD front hubs are VERY similar to manual 4WD hubs. I haven't checked if the parts are the same, but the locking collar on the wheel bearings looks the same, and there is a giant hole through the center of it all... The hub just isn't machined for a drive plate. That should mean it is possible to keep ABS with manual hubs.
-Charlie
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05-24-2018, 11:21 PM
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#10
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I'm glad this came up. My brother has a 95 tacoma 4x4 that he's using to swap its 3rz into his 85 4runner. He said I could have the hubs and anything off it if I wanted, but I read its kind of a pain if I wanted to keep my abs which I do since the truck it would come from was non abs.
Anyone that can chime in that has converted non abs manual hubs to abs manual hubs? How bad was it and was it worth it? I really would like to minimize cv boot wear but I don't wanna loose my abs either
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05-25-2018, 01:32 AM
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#11
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Level of "trouble" depends on tools, skill, space, experience, etc. 100% worth it to me.
I got all my parts for $300- with OEM axles.
Had new bearings pressed in, new backing plates, knuckle gussets while I was in there, and good to go for another 150-200k miles.
I didn't want my axles always spinning, and like doing cool OEM swaps. I don't think it's worth it if you're doing it for MPG savings, and it's a hassle to have to get out and lock the hubs if/when you want 4WD on the fly.
That said, leave them locked, and it's back to being like regular old auto hubs
Manual hub poser pic.
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05-25-2018, 01:37 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmcmanus663
Anyone that can chime in that has converted non abs manual hubs to abs manual hubs? How bad was it and was it worth it? I really would like to minimize cv boot wear but I don't wanna loose my abs either
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It's not a matter of being "bad" or "not bad", it's all about what you want, and your abilities.
It's a super easy swap, and no different than having new wheel bearings pressed on. The only difference is you have to pull off two per side, and press the manual wheel hubs(with ABS tone ring replacing the spacer!) onto the ABS knuckles. Easy peasy.
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05-25-2018, 10:35 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
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Pretty sure those are for the older IFS fronts and not the 3rd Gen 4runner/1st Gen Taco.
The Aisin manual hubs are strong plus you need the front hubs that press in to the bearings.
Do you have ABS?
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1999 Base model 4x4 3RZ 5 speed - added e-locker, front Aussie, dual cases with 4.7 front, manual hubs, Tundra/OME 861 springs, Shaved firewall (thanks Tyler James Inc), AssBurns rear links (run as 3 link),Limited interior w/ Mazda3 Grand Touring seats, Savage front and rear bumpers w/ winch, sliders, Thorley header w/ Magnaflow exhaust, SPC UCAs, 37s with 5.29 gears, roof rack and storage box, sport hood, BL and more. Linky
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05-25-2018, 12:19 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
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Stay away from all that.
Just be patient till you find a Tacoma you can use the OEM Aisin locking hubs and OEM axles from.
You can buy the manual wheel hubs new, and just have them pressed onto your ABS knuckles- if you are keeping ABS. They aren't cheap, and you'd still need the locking hubs and axles. That said, you can go aftermarket on the axles if you're into that, and then you would only have to find the locking hubs. Easy to find, and much cheaper to ship vs having to shop axles and the whole knuckle/wheel hub assembly.
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