This is a noob question but I want to double check, if there is a leak (probably the seal) where the passenger side front axle meets the front diff, the fluid that’s leaking would be the front diff fluid, correct? Just wanted to double check... It has the smell and consistency of gear oil so Im assuming if I cant replace the seal yet I can just add some gear oil to the front diff.. Thanks in advance!
This is a noob question but I want to double check, if there is a leak (probably the seal) where the passenger side front axle meets the front diff, the fluid that’s leaking would be the front diff fluid, correct? Just wanted to double check... It has the smell and consistency of gear oil so Im assuming if I cant replace the seal yet I can just add some gear oil to the front diff.. Thanks in advance!
Yes, you are correct. The correct viscosity is listed in the owner's manual.
This is a noob question but I want to double check, if there is a leak (probably the seal) where the passenger side front axle meets the front diff, the fluid that’s leaking would be the front diff fluid, correct? Just wanted to double check... It has the smell and consistency of gear oil so Im assuming if I cant replace the seal yet I can just add some gear oil to the front diff.. Thanks in advance!
Correct. Check your level before adding.
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1999 Base model 4x4 3RZ 5 speed - added e-locker, front Aussie, dual cases with 4.7 front, manual hubs, Tundra/OME 861 springs, Shaved firewall (thanks Tyler James Inc), AssBurns rear links (run as 3 link),Limited interior w/ Mazda3 Grand Touring seats, Savage front and rear bumpers w/ winch, sliders, Thorley header w/ Magnaflow exhaust, SPC UCAs, 37s with 5.29 gears, roof rack and storage box, sport hood, BL and more. Linky
Yes, it's the gear oil from the front differential leaking out. If you're planning on replacing the seal yourself, this video will help you out.
The fill and drain plugs on the front differential are well known to be very hard to break free. Use a good allen head socket and a long ratchet or prybar to attempt to break it free. If it's fighting you, stop before you strip it and apply some heat with a butane torch and then try again. If it's still fighting you, try more heat. Once you strip it, you'll then be forced to using a chisel and hammer to try to knock it loose or you can weld an allen head socket or nut onto the plug to break it loose. Always make sure you can break the fill plug loose first before removing the drain plug and draining out the gear oil. If you drain it out and then discover you can't get the fill plug loose, you're screwed and can't drive it.
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Thanks for super fast replies all, much appreciated! Tim, thanks for the video i’ve watched it before im sure but will definitely watch again if I attempt this myself. I’ve drained and refilled the diff’s about 15K miles ago using correct torque specs so the bolts shouldn’t fight me, in theory...
Yes, it's the gear oil from the front differential leaking out. If you're planning on replacing the seal yourself, this video will help you out.
The fill and drain plugs on the front differential are well known to be very hard to break free. Use a good allen head socket and a long ratchet or prybar to attempt to break it free. If it's fighting you, stop before you strip it and apply some heat with a butane torch and then try again. If it's still fighting you, try more heat. Once you strip it, you'll then be forced to using a chisel and hammer to try to knock it loose or you can weld an allen head socket or nut onto the plug to break it loose. Always make sure you can break the fill plug loose first before removing the drain plug and draining out the gear oil. If you drain it out and then discover you can't get the fill plug loose, you're screwed and can't drive it.
You're seriously like the Billy Mays of 4Runner fix it men! I love it!!
Well, I'd hate to resurrect this thread but the seal that was replaced by an OEM seal is leaking again, which leads me to believe the passenger side cv axle is a POS and will need to be replaced. Anyone happen to have the part number for an OEM CV axle for a 2000 LTD 4x4? The driver side was replaced a couple years ago and it's been bone dry, I don't know why the passenger side is always fighting me the whole time... Also if OEM is way expensive, what's a good premium alternative? Thanks in advance fellas!
Edit: I found part numer 4343004020, can anyone confirm this is correct?
I started using NAPA for these - sacrilege I know.
Any pics of the gap between the cv duct shield and axle tube? Can you grab the cv and move it back and forth to increase the gap? Just checking to make sure the seal did not get seated too far in.
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1999 Base model 4x4 3RZ 5 speed - added e-locker, front Aussie, dual cases with 4.7 front, manual hubs, Tundra/OME 861 springs, Shaved firewall (thanks Tyler James Inc), AssBurns rear links (run as 3 link),Limited interior w/ Mazda3 Grand Touring seats, Savage front and rear bumpers w/ winch, sliders, Thorley header w/ Magnaflow exhaust, SPC UCAs, 37s with 5.29 gears, roof rack and storage box, sport hood, BL and more. Linky
Check the sealing surface on the CV axle. Is it grooved or pitted? If you measure the OD of the axle you might be able to salvage it by installing a Speedi-Sleeve. Much better than having to junk a perfectly good axle.