08-09-2018, 03:09 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Chicago NW burbs
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Real Name: Teri
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
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Real Name: Teri
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Salvage and rust clean up
I am beginning to undertake the body-on rust scaling and preventative measures. I don't have a lift or access to one so that makes this challenging a bit.
Q1 - Here is my rear diff - this is salvageable right? grind out/away the rust and coat with reformer and por15 best option?
Q2 - for rusted bolts, etc. what do you use to loosen then up until one must cut them out with a plasma torch or something? WD40 doesn't cut it.
Been grinding with a screwdriver attached steel wheel but think I need to switch to something different for more surface area. The parts I have done it appears to be surface rust.
Q3 - Angle grinder with a steel pad??
I am not giving up on this truck at this stage, but I know there are parts that need replaced in this pic due to rust but until I figure out what they are and when I can get that done, they will have to stay and be rust reformed.
Just feeling a little frustrated because I want a nice clean frame like the Cali people have. Pipe dreams are real!
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99 Limited Silver/Tan 145K, Love this old thing.
16 Sonata Sport, Red with Grey interior.
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08-09-2018, 04:34 PM
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#2
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I love reading your threads, you have a great attitude towards tackling new jobs ! Rust penetrating fluids... there's as many answers to that question as there are products to try. I was shown a home made solution that I've been using for the past 15 years with great results. It's a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. ( any type of ATF should work, I use dextron IV because that's what I keep on hand )
Mix it up and apply with a cheap trigger spray bottle, like the ones you get at Home Depot for $3. You have to constantly shake it up to keep it mixed, and it's a bit messy but it does a great job of soaking into crevices.
If you have access to the bolt/fastener, you can soak it with the mix then heat it up with a MAPP cylinder, just be careful where you point the flame so as not to burn your rig to the ground.
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'99 Limited, 225K miles, 3.4/automatic, multi-mode, e-locker, broken sunroof, no DRL's. 265-75-16 Hankook Dynapro ATM. New Moog rear springs, KYB Monomax F&R.
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08-09-2018, 04:38 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: North Carolina
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Real Name: Chris
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Senior Member
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ZEP45 is a great product for penetrating and freeing up rusted bolts. Blows away everything I've tried so far.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZEP-45-DUAL...LH_TitleDesc=0
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2016 4RUNNER SR5 PURCHASED NEW JANUARY 29TH 2017 - OEM FJ TRD PRO SUSPENSION WITH 3/8 CORNFED TOP HAT SPACERS & 1" PRELOAD SPACER FOR A TOTAL OF 2.5" FRONT LIFT, 2" CORNFED SPACERS IN THE BACK (I'M A DEALER FOR CORNFED SUSPENSION), FX PRO WHEELS, 295/70/17 MICKEY THOMPSON ATZ P3, WEATHER PACKAGE, NAVIGATION, LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, AFE PRO DRY AIR FILTER, BORLA MUFFLER, TYGER SLIDER STEPS, BLACKOUT EMBLEM KIT, TRD PRO GRILL, POLY FRONT AND REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, OEM 3RD GEN REAR SWAY BAR LINKS, REAR DIFF BREATHER MOD, OEM ALUMINUM OIL FILTER HOUSING UPGRADE, OIL CATCH CAN.
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08-09-2018, 04:38 PM
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#4
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A heavy seasonal full spectrum coating of RP covering everything should stop the progression if done properly. Even if you don't have time to clean up and repaint it all, douse it even over the rust, just RP it like a glazed doughnut for a full barrier. Remember frames, rockers, doors and hatches rot from inside. Don't wash the undercarriage, especially high pressure car wash, it will take the RP off.
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08-09-2018, 04:40 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
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Ah and don't forget anti seize on every single bolt you touch. Will make life much easier in the future.
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2016 4RUNNER SR5 PURCHASED NEW JANUARY 29TH 2017 - OEM FJ TRD PRO SUSPENSION WITH 3/8 CORNFED TOP HAT SPACERS & 1" PRELOAD SPACER FOR A TOTAL OF 2.5" FRONT LIFT, 2" CORNFED SPACERS IN THE BACK (I'M A DEALER FOR CORNFED SUSPENSION), FX PRO WHEELS, 295/70/17 MICKEY THOMPSON ATZ P3, WEATHER PACKAGE, NAVIGATION, LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, AFE PRO DRY AIR FILTER, BORLA MUFFLER, TYGER SLIDER STEPS, BLACKOUT EMBLEM KIT, TRD PRO GRILL, POLY FRONT AND REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, OEM 3RD GEN REAR SWAY BAR LINKS, REAR DIFF BREATHER MOD, OEM ALUMINUM OIL FILTER HOUSING UPGRADE, OIL CATCH CAN.
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08-09-2018, 04:43 PM
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#6
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Thanks 2ndhandyotaman! I am glad to be tolerated here for my constant questions and 'Help Needed' things. But I'm learning!
Now - ATF is auto trans fluid?
I'm devoting the weekend to this belly work and off to Harbor Freight I go then the shooting range for pew-pew and beer after. Marines like to reward theirselves with beer or promises thereof. LOL
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99 Limited Silver/Tan 145K, Love this old thing.
16 Sonata Sport, Red with Grey interior.
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08-09-2018, 04:48 PM
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#7
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'02 Limited 4x4 AT - Stock ~181k miles
Thundercloud aka metallic dirt
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08-09-2018, 04:50 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heat
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That's what I thought, thought the same about PB at one time too. Then a couple months ago I got samples of the ZEP 45 and that's now the only thing I keep in my shop. Try it, you'll be sold on it right away. Best buying in bulk to keep costs down, it's not cheap but goes a long way.
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2016 4RUNNER SR5 PURCHASED NEW JANUARY 29TH 2017 - OEM FJ TRD PRO SUSPENSION WITH 3/8 CORNFED TOP HAT SPACERS & 1" PRELOAD SPACER FOR A TOTAL OF 2.5" FRONT LIFT, 2" CORNFED SPACERS IN THE BACK (I'M A DEALER FOR CORNFED SUSPENSION), FX PRO WHEELS, 295/70/17 MICKEY THOMPSON ATZ P3, WEATHER PACKAGE, NAVIGATION, LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, AFE PRO DRY AIR FILTER, BORLA MUFFLER, TYGER SLIDER STEPS, BLACKOUT EMBLEM KIT, TRD PRO GRILL, POLY FRONT AND REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, OEM 3RD GEN REAR SWAY BAR LINKS, REAR DIFF BREATHER MOD, OEM ALUMINUM OIL FILTER HOUSING UPGRADE, OIL CATCH CAN.
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08-09-2018, 05:02 PM
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#9
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You're going to want to be real careful grinding or descaling that dif. That is somewhat thin metal and you could very well put a hole in it then you'll have opened up a real can of worms. Hard to tell from the pic but if you could get a closer shot, I could tell how bad it is.
Also, if you haven' t already, try to really clean out the frame rails by flushing water in at several spots. Start at the back where it's wide open. If you have a pressure washer that might move things a little more. Two things you want to accomplish here is to get out all the "stuff" that would clog the frame hole drains (really needs a drain in front of the rear lower control mounts) and to see what kind of rust you can flush out (the bigger the rust chunks the greater the problem (and panic) JK about the panic but the rust problem is no joke on these trucks and looking at that one picture of yours, you've got some work to do.
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08-09-2018, 05:02 PM
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#10
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good to know, I've used and liked other zep products
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'02 Limited 4x4 AT - Stock ~181k miles
Thundercloud aka metallic dirt
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08-09-2018, 05:04 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrexRunnerGirl
Thanks 2ndhandyotaman! I am glad to be tolerated here for my constant questions and 'Help Needed' things. But I'm learning!
Now - ATF is auto trans fluid?
I'm devoting the weekend to this belly work and off to Harbor Freight I go then the shooting range for pew-pew and beer after. Marines like to reward theirselves with beer or promises thereof. LOL
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ATF = auto tranny juice. Your questions are as straight forward as anyone elses, including mine. No need to feel like you're "tolerated", it seems like a great group of active forum members in here that make everyone feel welcome.
Ahhh, memories of the beer garden outside of the squad bay....
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'99 Limited, 225K miles, 3.4/automatic, multi-mode, e-locker, broken sunroof, no DRL's. 265-75-16 Hankook Dynapro ATM. New Moog rear springs, KYB Monomax F&R.
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08-09-2018, 05:55 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2016
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Real Name: Mark
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The ATF/Acetone is a winner it works. Ospho for rust conversion prevention is what I like to use on bare rusted metal you can get it at Ace.
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08-09-2018, 09:46 PM
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#13
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Real Name: Scramble
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First off that pic is too small. Upload a larger one & zoom in more.
Second no screwdriver! Buy an assorted kit of wire wheels that attach to a drill, plus different length & width wire brushes. It really helps to have a 1" body lift to get to the top of the frame.
Soak all reusable nuts, bolts & washers in Evaporust & use anti-seize when you replace everything.
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
Last edited by Scramble; 08-09-2018 at 09:54 PM.
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08-09-2018, 10:07 PM
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#14
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Elite Member
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Get your paints & brushes ready! POR15 or Eastwood rust converter both dry quickly so you have to work fast. Thats hard for me because I like to take my time. Also use a little at a time in an old soup of coffee can. Leaving the product can open will ruin it quickly.
Buy pints or quarts & brush on, much cheaper in the long run over spay cans. Use the 360* tube spray nozzles to get into the frame & nooks & crannies of the cross members & places that brushes wont reach.
It def helps to remove the axle, springs, shocks etc.
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
Last edited by Scramble; 08-09-2018 at 10:34 PM.
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08-09-2018, 10:37 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scramble
It def helps to remove the axle, springs, shocks etc.
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Or body off frame, flip body on side.
Fine clean up job Scramble!!
I feel for you guys that still live in the rust belt.
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