Well done on the research and execution. While I don't have a huge interest in doing this I really appreciate your passion to make it happen and sharing it. Being completely reversible makes it even better.

Got everything for this mod and going to be implementing it in the coming week or so. Just wanted to throw out a comprehensive schematic for posterity's sake. It was a little hard for me to work out in my head how this was actually working, but this (at least for me) makes it much more clear. One note: I've reversed the relay wiring (85&30 to ground, 87 to ECU pin #9, and TR7 Blue to 86), but it will still work as expected:

Got this done over the weekend and am real happy with how it works

This is a great mod. The only thing I would add with how the OP originally wired this is to splice the wires a little more "permanently". There's absolutely nothing wrong with how the OP did it, but I just prefer not to use those little T-taps. They will most likely will fail in the future. That said, I did have to use one on the Green-Red wire, since I ripped it in two when trying to expose a section of it.

Here's how I do it:

1. Pull the pin. There's a strip on the flat side of the connector that has to be pulled up (not shown). Then you can take a pick or in my case a hairpin to pull the tab inside the connector up to remove the pinned wire.







2. Strip (carefully) some of the wire back to expose the copper and make a loop with it:



3. Pass your new wire through loop you made and wrap it around the original wire. It helps to strip an inch or more of your new wire you're splicing in.



4. Heat shrink the spliced section. I also add a little zip tie around both wires about an inch or so down from my splice to help keep it secure, though the wires will break before this connection comes apart.

Results:

Yes there is. Just put your key in the rear hatch's lock, turn it, and hold it in that turned position. I think turning and holding it either left or right determines the up and down, but try it out. I found that out on accident when trying to unlock the hatch one weekend while the batteries on my key fob were dead, but wished I knew about it sooner.

Thanks for the write up, very helpful! One thing of note, I cut out the magnetic switch because I didn't want it to ever unstick on either end and cause the mod to stop working. What I found is that it doesn't affect anything the way the system is set up in the 3rd gen 4runners. If I try to hit the window button twice, the second time before the window is all the way down, the signal seems not to go through and the TR-7 chip does not activate (probably for the same reason the window going down counts as the first pulse even with the magnetic switch in place). Thanks again for the write up!
TLDR magnetic switch seems to not add any functionality.

All of my parts arrived today, and now the images are all blurry. Stupid photobucket. Anyone have those images in higher resolution? I'll gladly host them.

This is amazing, good jobs guys. I think I saw this at one point but forgot about it. I think ill order the parts and give it a go as it seems super easy. I think ill add my inside always hot button finally.

So you didnt even install the magnet switch and everything works great, fully tested?

Its super hot where I live so id be worried about the same issues of things not sticking.

B18 is the Rear Windows ECU plug.

B18 Blue #1 (Main power) will be connected to the Red of the TR7
B18 Green with Red stripe #9 (Window roll up signal from window switch) will be connected to the Relay #30 (Blue)
B18 White with Black stripe #26 (ground) will be connected to
-Relay #86 (White)
-Relay #87 (Yellow)
-TR7 Black
TR7 Blue will be connected to the Relay #85 (Black)

Magnet Switch Option
-B18 Green #12 to one magnet switch wire
-TR7 Green connects to the other magnet switch wire

No Magnet Switch Option
-B18 Green #12 wire to TR7 Green

TR7 Programming - Feature 15

To Be Determined.

I don't have this working yet, just trying to simplify the instructions for myself and anyone one else trying to do this.

Will have to do this to my 4Runner =)

Sorry for late reply @more4runner , never got notifications. Still looking for images? Did you get it working?


Thanks for the addition @weekendclimber

I actually didn't, all the parts are sitting in a box waiting for me to get back to it. Thanks for getting back to me. Offer still stands on the hosting.

For those that are following, I changed image hosting so they should work now... let me know if not

This is really neat. I am going to attempt this once I am more familiar with my 4runner! I just bought it and will post an intro/overview when I work up enough credit on this forum to do so lol.

This post is great! Just wired mines up. Works like a charm. I choose to not wire the magnet switch and it works perfectly fine like what was said ^^^. Very pleased. Hardest part was putting the plastic panel back on��

I'll
add for programming the model use the Brown wire to the white/black(ground)on the b18 plug to input the programming commands. You can do that by just pushing it in the socket where the wire is crimped Steps are as follows

1)Switch module to the on position (the only switch on the module)
2)Plug in module
3) Pulse the trigger wire 15 times to ground. Choosing option 15 (brown from module to white/black on b18 plug, brown on from the module is the "trigger" wire for programming commands) the modules red LED will blink repeating how many times you grounded it (counter those blinks to verify you did indeed hit it 15 times)
4)Within 3 seconds of step 3s repeat blinks ground the brown wire 2 more times. The module will then blink twice repeating your work.
5)Wait another 3 secs the module will flash fast once after entering timer setting mode automatically. Here you input nothing. After another 3 secs it will flash fast twice here you input nothing finally after another 3 secs the module flashes fast 3 times after the 3 times flashing fast you ground the trigger wire as many times as you want seconds of output i.e. window roll up command time. In this case you would ground brown 5 times for 5 seconds. The module will flash 5 times repeating to you what you chose.
6) once all steps are complete the LED with flash fast for 3 seconds indicating programming complete. Turn switch to off and your done. Test the fob for operation ��

Heres the link where you can download the actual manual if you don't understand my gibberish

Universal Trigger Module - PAC

humm.. I just tried to install yesterday and had issues with programming the module. I thought seconds was on the two fast flashes at the end not three. Maybe I was doing something wrong? I also used the green wire to program.

Grounded the black, red power and green was my programing.


My issue was the module would turn on after only 1 press and stay locked on forever at least longer then I wanted to wait. I just kept the relay on until I unplugged it. Not sure why it came on after 1 press since it flashed twice back to be after the activation in the middle step.