Heh, if x8 with 4.5" BS is "correctly spec'ed," then I guess I got the short end of the stick because even with my previous ~3.25" lift on a hotwheels-stiff front end I rubbed a bit on the back of the flares until I trimmed a bit, and this was just during daily driving. It rubbed a bit more during offroading, but I never flexed it much (mostly due to its stiffness, but also due to the moderate forest roads I was doing). With my softer front end and more aggressive offroading lately, I rub quite a bit more, mostly at the rear. Increasing caster by moving the upper joint rearwards would only exacerbate this problem except where I occasionally now rub the front passenger side at the coolant bottle bulge.

But yeah, I cannot imagine a way that a 33" tire could move through its entire articulation and turning arc on a flared 3rd gen without any rubbing. Are you sure the anecdotes you found weren't in reference to flareless rigs, or only in street driving?

Oh, I actually have about .5" between my sidewall and UCA, rubbing 285s on 16x8s with 4.5" backspace. A 315 adds 15mm, or about .6", to each side of the tire, so I would rub the [stock] UCAs with these wheels and 35s. However, 4.25 to 4" backspacing should work. Of course, that means more "persuasion," even with 33s.

that chart is actually off a bit; wheel width is measured to to the inside of the bead seat wall (a measurement pertinent to tire suitability), whereas BS is measured to the outside of that wall's flange (a suspension clearance measurement.) - it isn't uncommon for 8" wide wheels to have an overall width of 8.5", for instance.

from what I can tell, that chart assumes that width is measured to the same point that BS is.

1. I LOVE the SCS rims. I got the RAY 10s but I honestly like them all. The Matte gray is almost a perfect match for the silver cladding trim on my Limited. I think I read in your build somewhere you didn't like the cladding color and were going to change it. I just wanted to get away from the black rims EVERYONE has now. My only very minor complaint is the fake beadlock holds "stuff" in it. But it does make the rim look smaller and deeper which I like.

2. I know for a fact 315s wont fit without a BL. I rubbed on my front flare when I turn until I trimmed it. It barely clears now. I also don't like the hit in gas mileage I've taken with the size I have now. Rides pretty good, especially after the EIMKEITH bracket mod and rear bump stops. I don't think I would go any bigger or taller as much as I like the look, I still have to drive it.

I think you got me there. Something I missed. I can't say for sure on the flares, but I know I didn't make it a point to notice or inquire if those making such assertions had Limiteds or flares. Otherwise, the posters did off-road their trucks...

Appreciate the projection on 315s. The 17x8", 4.1" BS, -10mm offset might be a good choice seemingly. As you said, at the expense of 33 fitment. No free lunch, which I get. Trying to find that "happy" medium wheel of sorts for 33's and 35s...

I know what you mean Keith. Watched a good video a couple nights ago of someone making such measurements, noting that the referenced width was from inside, not the outside, and in his example, it too was a .5" delta. That would be a pretty glaring mistake. I lifted the chart from this page:

https://www.americastire.com/learn/offset-backspace

At the bottom they show a 6" width wheel as measured from the outside. Hmm....

Good stuff John and glad to hear that you feel very good about your SCS wheel purchase. The price difference in their wheels is pretty minimal, so not much of a factor, I feel. Appearance-wise, I'm leaning toward the RAY10s. With more material as compared to the F5s, they are a little over 2 pounds heavier, but with that, can take more max load, about 200+ lbs more. It will likely come-down to availability... That said, I likely won't be putting on wheels/tires until late this year, after skids, bumpers and suspension are in-place, so I can wait some.

Your memory is spot-on. In an ideal world, I wouldn't have a Limited. Not a fan of the flares and cladding, among other "upgrades". I however approve of them over the little square holes that would remain! Maybe I'll figure something out, someday... If keeping them, they will painted black, like the future bumpers and sliders. With that, likely yet another 3rd gen with black rims, to make you cringe :-)

Thanks for the feedback on 315s. I too recently received Keith's PCKs, so I'm glad to hear yet more good feedback. Still trying to find a good welder in these parts...

Here's a question for you, or anyone here... If you were to design a 17" wheel to accommodate both 33s and 35s on our 3rd gens, to strike that balance, what would those specs be?

I went with the FX PRO wheels - they're a great fit with 33s (285/70/17) during mock up stage (my truck is on jackstands atm)

That's a nice-looking wheel Keith!

The 4.5" BS zero offset looks be the way to go for 33s; as far minimal to no fitment issues. Right or wrong, I prefer a hubcentric wheel... I had a couple experiences before with non-hubcentric wheels that has left me willing to limit my list to those with 106mm bores.

Found a few good threads on 35s and this post here currently has my attention:

"I'd say 3" is required for 35's.Like UnderFire said- you'll need to pound the firewall to not rub the firewall- even with a 3" lift- if you ever intend to go off-road.

Most guys with 35's have a 3"+ suspension lift, as well as a 1"+ body lift.
I have the lowest offset wheels possible(tires rub upper control arms when droop or turning), and I still need to tub my firewall to clear off-road. The lowest offset wheels possible gives you the most clearance, as well as keeping bump steer to an absolute minimum. Running spacers will make you rub fenders and firewall much worse.

My wheels are 17x9, et0, 5" backspace.

I would say an 8" wide wheel- with a backspace of 4-4.5" MAX- would give you the least amount of body interference.

My 35" BFG K02 All Terrain tires are pretty stuffed with a 3" lift. No body lift. Yet."

3rd gen 01 - 35's no lift

The 17x8.5s with 4.3" BS would seem to be a decent candidate for 35s...

EDIT/ADD: Scrolling-down in that post provided reveals Rockdawg84's impressive 3rd gen, with 35s, and zero lift (suspension or body). pretty neat what he did...

Found this wheel offset calculator:

https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

I used the 8" width and zero offset as the baseline for comparison purposes. An 8.5" width, -10mm offset, makes for 4mm more inside clearance, and 16mm more poke...