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Old 11-07-2018, 02:48 PM #16
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So steady vacuum is 20 to 22hg then? Didn’t know that. What port/line are you using to test such?
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Old 11-07-2018, 02:55 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
it might be known as the S1000? maybe.

yes I did a little digging I think this looks like the instructions

1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build
1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build
1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build
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Holy. SH*T thank you. Love this stuff. I'm adding it to my page if you don't mind. Solid info!
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Old 11-07-2018, 03:49 PM #18
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I would love to know where you got the weather seals for that kind of money...

thanks
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Old 11-07-2018, 04:17 PM #19
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Quote:
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I would love to know where you got the weather seals for that kind of money...

thanks
The junkyard by me gave me mine.
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Old 11-07-2018, 04:20 PM #20
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Quote:
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I would love to know where you got the weather seals for that kind of money...

thanks
the guy I got the transmission from, every once in a while you run into somebody who is a bro. just happy to get something rather than nothing.

I have done a lot of craigs list stuff over the years and you will run into 2 kinds of people IMO. #1 think they have a gold mine and want way to much, these people I just walk away. #2 they are happy that somebody drove to their house with cash and offered to buy something they were thinking was worthless and will negotiate on price.

I know I have another pair someplace in a box but I can't find them. if your in need I can PM you when I find them. and to be clear these are the rain seals not the full door seals.
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Old 11-07-2018, 04:45 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar View Post
So steady vacuum is 20 to 22hg then? Didn’t know that. What port/line are you using to test such?
manifold vacuum zone, vac gauge

once warmed up it should stick @ 20 IMO

I rechecked and FSM does say 17 so mabe I'm good, since no supercharger on this one, yet.
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Old 11-07-2018, 06:11 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
manifold vacuum zone, vac gauge

once warmed up it should stick @ 20 IMO

I rechecked and FSM does say 17 so mabe I'm good, since no supercharger on this one, yet.
I will have to check that out.

That garage is sorely missing a lift in it.
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Old 11-07-2018, 06:46 PM #23
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Originally Posted by LittleCaesar View Post
I will have to check that out.

That garage is sorely missing a lift in it.
if only I would have put in 4 more feet of headroom clearance when I built it? and not run that in floor heating, would love to drill some holes and go thru a tube, not.

I have an evil plan for next summer, I'm going to go grab another hoist so I can pull the frame and body apart. I think with 2x hoists, one on each side and using the center of the body with some sort of sketchy support it should work ok.

so.... I just did the evap delete. it works just fine and no codes. will run it for a while and see.

also via ODBII the PID for VAC says now I have 22 hg. I will have to dig out that gauge and test again.
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Old 11-07-2018, 11:56 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
No idea why but somebody decided to rip the drivers seat out at some point. probably because the bolt was rusted or maybe zombies? anyways, having a wobbly drivers seat is kind of annoying so I grabbed a M10 I think that was long enough to go all the way thru and secured it. Now I have a solid drivers seat. this truck has so much sketch in it.

1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

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I'm 100% sure somebody did the same thing before but... bolt must have rusted off?
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Nice work! I need this mod for my drivers seat...
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:19 PM #25
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frame replacement

OK!

seems like back when T4R was subject to the terror attacks or something I lost some post in this thread.

I need a new frame for this truck, got pretty lucky and found a CA truck that had moved to MN for just a year or so before it was salvaged so not much rust on it.

I can't really work on this part until spring of 2019 so... this is on hold but I can hopefully take care of the other parts I will need to get this frame swapped in.

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Old 01-13-2019, 12:31 PM #26
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rear axle restore

Everything I will be doing on this frame up restore on 1997 pinky will be coated with KBS DTM epoxy primer and then their top coat.

Why would I use that KBS coatings stuff.

#1 I don't have spray stuff and I don't have access to anyplace I could spray, unless I pony up the $ to have somebody else do it.
- conclusion -> brushing it on
#2 I wanted a direct to metal epoxy (DTM) because they claim better corrosion protection, so I drank this koolaid.

so far... I have done the axles, bearing cups, rear axle assembly and it's a biach to work with because painting these intricate little spaces takes a lot of time. impossible to not get runs but this the underside so I'm not really super freaked about brush marks and runs. what I want is solid corrosion protection and hopefully this will help. time will tell.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

using this flow chart to apply

RustSeal Flow Chart - Basic Guidelines - Stop Rust

sandblast->rust seal->rust seal->black top


1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

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super sexy PCK from
buy a PCK – jkeithwalters.com
1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

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Last edited by sleepydad; 01-13-2019 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:17 PM #27
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@sleepydad don’t you have a compressor? The harbor freight spray guns are actually perfect for this kind of work. I’ve used them to spray frame coatings and such. They don’t have as much air consumption either unlike my devilbiss guns. Looks good regardless! And I wouldn’t really care if there were runs on anything on my undercarriage.
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:47 PM #28
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@sleepydad don’t you have a compressor? The harbor freight spray guns are actually perfect for this kind of work. I’ve used them to spray frame coatings and such. They don’t have as much air consumption either unlike my devilbiss guns. Looks good regardless! And I wouldn’t really care if there were runs on anything on my undercarriage.
I think I have about 10 CFM @ 90 psi with my ganged up harbor freight 30 gal's. my blasting setup.

I don't have anyplace to spray that is heated. My wife might get angry if I setup a spray booth in the living room?

I'm going to need to do some kind of internal frame coating thing after I'm outside because there are still some places you just can't get with a brush or spray gun. the spring perch/sway bar bracket mount area and panhard bar mount have sealed areas.

I wish I could get it looking factory but that is just not going to happen. e-coat is not in the budget. I'm thinking I need to setup a frame rotisserie out of a couple harbor freight engine stands. being able to spin things around makes life so much easier.

something like this... not sure yet but after I'm done with rear axles here I'm going to start collecting the pieces.
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:51 PM #29
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My mat on the driverside has the exact same hole in it as yours!!! And the tire, i would say they or you got the goodie outta that one
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:02 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
I think I have about 10 CFM @ 90 psi with my ganged up harbor freight 30 gal's. my blasting setup.

I don't have anyplace to spray that is heated. My wife might get angry if I setup a spray booth in the living room?

I'm going to need to do some kind of internal frame coating thing after I'm outside because there are still some places you just can't get with a brush or spray gun. the spring perch/sway bar bracket mount area and panhard bar mount have sealed areas.

I wish I could get it looking factory but that is just not going to happen. e-coat is not in the budget. I'm thinking I need to setup a frame rotisserie out of a couple harbor freight engine stands. being able to spin things around makes life so much easier.

something like this... not sure yet but after I'm done with rear axles here I'm going to start collecting the pieces.
1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build
@TonyB66 is using some product from Eastwood to get on the inside of his frame, it has a 3’ hose attachment or something.
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