I like the way you do your thing always good stuff.
Plate Deco - try sticky back felt from Craft store cut to plate lasts till new plates come out no sub thump rattle
- ditch the deco, ha.

Plate bezel part of roof repaint project since paint gun be out.

@sleepydad

I just love reading through your build threads. your cheeky wit, pictures of part numbers and super-sicmods make it a nice light afternoon read.




.

did you seperate the two halves.
reason I ask, is I have 2 door cards for my drivers. One is pretty broken at the bottom, one is bad on the top. was gonna grind off the little plastic "bruned " rivits, just not sure how to then re-attach
guess I could hot glue them
ideas ?

my cards are in good condition but I did use an old one to experiment on, good idea to have a whoops door card available to mess up on IMO.

yes I removed the upper and lower sections.

2 paths you can take.

I have tried both paths, both work ok.

path 1 pickup a cheap plastic welder/solder gun thing like this one... I used it... just fine. don't expect it to last a long time but for that price, meh.

Massca Plastic Welding Kit with Rods, Reinforcing Mesh, Hot Iron Stand, and Wire Brush, DIY Arts and Crafts or Professional Surface Repair, Portable Use, 80 Watt - - Amazon.com

you just get it hot and melt the plastic "bruned " rivits holding it on but don't melt too much because you need to re-melt those spots with the extra plastic from the welding kit.

when your done it will look like this



path 2

your going to have use your imagination sorry don't have picts, but if you grind down those little plastic "bruned " rivits just enough to get them to release the upper section, you can use a self tapping screw with a washer and it works pretty well. just have to be super careful not to drill thru to the other side and leave a hole in your door card. or hot glue would work it just might not hold all that great. the screw it down approached seemed to work just a tiny bit better.

Fastener tab rightside center is broken on every card I've seen owned when I got them.

gonna try method 2 as i am in a time crunch, and I do have a woops door to practice on. thnaks for the ideas

Screws with widely spaced, deep threads will bite into that soft plastic much better than a sheet metal screw, BTW.

Helps against splitting if you drill pilot hole correct size for screw your using.

after cutting door panels apart...and picking up small screws....well.not gonna work well... they could work on the outer ones,,,not the inner near door handle and arm rest.I ordered the glue gun thing you referenced
thanks

bummer well... update us when you get the plastic melting thingy. it works ok for the price.

interior upholstery is harder than it looks. at first I was expecting it to be easy and it turned out I had to really pay attention to the details otherwise it does not work out.

one other thing I just went thru - I had to re-apply some extra contact cement and fix a sag. I initially did the work in the winter time and once it got super summer roasting hot one spot needed more glue. not surprised because the vinyl with fabric backing seems to suck up some glue so make sure you apply plenty.

thanks...im not doing anything new...like new vinyl....just taking one door pannel that is busted on the bottom half and attaching to one door panel that is busted on the top half. So one good bottom panel attached to one good top panel... Up here ...could not find any door panels that were good

have been working on a full floating rear for this truck, it's slow going.

when inserting the axles into the differential one axle slides into place perfectly. The other axle stops short and will not slide in to full engagement. once the trouble axle has been slid into place it is extremely difficult to remove.

the axles need to fully seat for everything to work correctly on the locking hub side.

I have a spare differential assembly so after removing both axles from the truck, I tried both axles on either side of my spare differential. Yes one axle regardless of side will not slide to full engagement.

left side will not slide in


remove and swap sides
right side will not slide in now




Not sure why it seems so common to get crap from so many automotive aftermarket suppliers. it would be so easy to just test fit those axles before you ship them? ah yea why would test fit something? lets ship it all over the world and cause everybody the most amount of pain possible. The profit margins on these things must be amazing if 1/2 of what you produce is bad from the start. I will have to see if I can get these made elsewhere, since it sounds like RCV is +6 months behind on orders. not only do they make crap but they can't make crap fast enough to keep up. #sad

Put a little Prussian blue on there and see where it’s hanging up. Maybe a bit of filing on the splines will do the trick.

I had another spare spider I kept just in case so I took that apart and we ran the splines thru a side gear a couple of times. This helped and I was able then to dead blow it into it's home. I'm sure as soon as we run a bit it will make it's witness mark and should slide in and out just fine.

I found it ironic they say this is a floating axle setup where can just remove the axle... I was like yea if you have to pound the axle in with a hammer? "floating" is not the word I would use. sigh.

so now I just need to fab up some break lines and of course swap out assemblies. I'm getting a closer to being able to flat tow.

finally at long last... just need to do brake lines now. that should be easy right.


the something new part, yes that is what you think it is






in all it's glory, just like factory fresh, even with link bar correction bracket.