I don't think you can call this sketchy anymore. Awesome build and some serious skills.

everything turned out pretty good, was fun project.

final in the truck



from the front


and a booty shot


ST Blade Compact Fuse Blocks - 4 Circuits - Blue Sea Systems

285-Series - Blue Sea Systems
any surface mount should work out but I only felt I needed 30 amps right now.
285-Series Circuit Breaker - Surface Mount 30A - Blue Sea Systems

STL files all models are in mm
fuse block top support v9.stl - Google Drive
fuse block 2nd support leg V1 v3.stl - Google Drive
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lIH...ew?usp=sharing

As I very very slowly move along at a snails pace. I have routed the ARB air lines a couple of time and I think this is finally the location that has given me the most fun /s during the install but also the best out of the way routing.

note: yes I had the entire truck professionally sprayed with fluid film, it's a nightmare to work on now because yes your covered in fluid film. This is price I pay for my ancestors settling in the salt belt.

no zip ties this time. custom clips


they clip on with a little effort but also hold really nice, they can come off but they are just what you would expect. yea kind of a *****. But they work well.


The STL for the clip, one side is for 4.75 mm brake line and the other is for the 6 mm arb line.
ARB line clip to brake v4.stl - Google Drive

starting up in the engine room.


heading out along the top of the firewall with the cluster fock of brake lines.


heading down and along the brake lines


past the union



and that is the last pict I took, was covered in fluid film at this point and I was pretty angry in general, but happy it was over.

the weather has been unbelievably nice in MN, I got the chance to golf 9 holes with my son. anybody who has teenagers might have an idea how special it is when you get them away from the electronics and we pretty much had the course to ourselves. the weather was glorious and my parents moved onto the course now so we took an extra 30-40 balls with us. My mom walks the course every evening and has buckets of balls for us when we come. we lost our fair share but told her we left some out there for her to find again.

finally got done with this one... now both of these setups are the same between both my trucks. very happy with the results. as always under the dash sucks.

3d printed a nice little mounting plate. this time I decided to use the melt in brass knurled nuts M4. love the fact I don't have to mess with little nylock nuts, just screw it down and be done with it.
M3 M4 M5 Female Thread Brass Knurled Threaded Insert Embedment Nuts Assortment Kit, Pressed Fit into Holes for 3D Prints and More Projects-300PCS: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

stl link. if you print it just make sure the chamfer on the holes is up. this way as you melt your knurled nuts into it they self center.
cabin fuse V1 v6.stl - Google Drive



picked up an honest to goodness 30 amp rated relay with the correctly sized wires.

4-Wire Relay Socket – CE Auto Electric Supply
Tyco / Bosch 30/20 Amp Relay – CE Auto Electric Supply

ground bar
Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 100 Amp Mini BusBar with 5 screws and a cover, 2314 : Boating Battery Switches : Sports & Outdoors

fuse box
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1MS1K...roduct_details



and installed... some of my old wires are little short but everything is out of the way so I think it's fine.

What kinda filament did you use for that? I’m afraid to use PLA for 4Runner parts because I’ve had parts warp in the sun in a matter of minutes.

PLA works fine for anything interior and not exposed to UV. I did hatch bushings june 2020 and they still look fine.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3502697-post186.html

however.... as I'm finding out right now the PLA cannot put up with recurring heat in the engine bay. I ordered them professional ABS a couple of days ago and when they come I update the ARB clip info and we will see how they hold up.

I think in general as long as it's not in direct sunlight and or exposed to heat above 150 F for long periods of time PLA is an ok choice. ABS or Nylon is better but... it's a ***** to print with low end printers.

I have been kicking around the idea this winter of doing the voron 2.4 build and making a more capable setup for higher temp stuff. The carbon fiber infused ABS stuff is really interesting but it's still pretty expensive.

One of the guys on youtube who is pretty resourceful and I subscribed to him a couple of years ago I think anyways..



I don't like putting things out unless I know they worked ok for me. But I have ordered some of the ApolloX ASA fillament, just have not given it a go yet. it's a little expensive for filliment but it's really not that bad as long as your not printing body panels with it I supose.

Amazon.com: FormFutura ApolloX ASA 1.75mm Black 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy < +/- 0.05mm : Industrial & Scientific

Your IM function seems like my work Skype haha.

Thanks for tagging me for your edit. That's a cool video and is pretty impressive. I've been hearing a lot lately about ASA for, uh, 2A-related items, so I'm interested to see it being used in automotive applications too.

There aren't a whole lot of underhood things I want to print right now, but there are definitely a handful of interior parts I want to make, and for how hot it gets here in the summer I'm worried they'd warp. Sounds like ASA might be the ticket for that.

I have only broken a wheel stud once but for some strange reason I have always wanted to have a little box to hold 3 fronts + 3 rears + 6 old school lug nuts. No idea why so... to the bat cave!



it fits nice into the center console (99 version as tested)


STL of the box
wheel stud repair box.stl - Google Drive

STL of the top
wheel stud repair box top.stl - Google Drive

note: I printed the bottom out of TPU, it's soft kind of like rubber or neoprene. the top is just PLA so it's hard, but with the body soft it makes no rattles whatsoever. the first box I printed was all out of PLA and it did make some rattles... was never able to get snug as a lug in a rug OMG that is terrible I love it.

anyways, I can now go to the mall and not worry if I break a lug or lose my nuts. again sleepy! stop it.

these are really nice covers, they are thick and make the seats nice and firm. the install was much more difficult because the leather is full grain and it's a battle for everything.

the head rests were actually pretty easy, you take a zip loc bag and put the old cover in. use a shop vac to create a crunch zone and you can then compress the old headrest and get the new covers on. lemon squeezy really.

They are made in Pakistan, that is where the shipment source was marked.
Toyota 4Runner SR5 (Gen 3) 1996-2002 Leather Replacement Seat Covers | Ridies.com















Senior Blue Purrito III approved, yes that is really his name

This is becoming my sons first truck, you have to start them out on the correct path. So in that process the truck has gotten a new official name.

SpeedBerrie!

way back in days of yore

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3162709-post2.html

I did some sketchy stuff to hold up the auto trans cooler lines... well it has come time to fix that sketch.

anything I design in autodesk must have some secret animal shape, this one is no different.


the rubber lines had started to show some rubbing marks where they were zip tied to the old hard line brackets.



took a couple of proto-types but I got something I liked


I decided in the spirit of sketchy I needed to maintain the zip tie portion. the design has 2@5mm holes so the zip ties are routed thru the bracket. nice a secure.


perfect, they keep the lines nice and snug without crushing them.


under side looking up, yes I did trim the tails... just took that shot before I did it.



note: I referenced to the filament I used above ApolloX ASA filament. If you do not believe the filament is good enough for bolt onto the engine? yea this guy uses it for his intakes.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3683261-post336.html

because the front bracket also holds the starter wire it was a little more complicated.


worked out well and with zip tie-o-rama

I'm not a huge fan of the TBU, unless your running bigger tires I think it's way overrated. But I did on this truck back in 2017 and since then I have had both calipers develop a stuck piston. This is the second one I have replaced, both of the calipers I used originally were from a Toyota dealer.

not a hard job so now I'm running re-man from napa on both sides. see how long they last. the pads, rotors have tons of life left in them otherwise I would have downsized to the stock rotors and calipers.

stuck mofo


reman mofo

You didn't rebuild your own? I just bought a rebuild kit from rock auto and redid mine.

I was at first against the TBU. Then I realized their were 2 types of replacement calipers and rotor.

The smaller of the 2 options fit the stock oem rims as well as use the exact same size brake pad.

Plus no change of pedal performance and feel.

I think I have the comparisons on my build thread between stock and the smaller tundra brake caliper if your interested.


Glad you got them replaced.

Napa remfg calipers seem to be decent. I ran a set of stock size calipers for a year or 2 with zero issues.



Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Awesome build and great work! Subbed to see what happens next.

Moon mist from a 1998 is super hard to come by - I've been able to find it in 1996-1998 but the texture on the side seams of the seats is different. I'm slowly trying to gather the parts to redo my interior but have had absolutely no luck finding decent seats for it!