Great! Now I want to pull my engine harness and rewrap everything in PowerBraid. JERK!!

I really like making vids but I'm terrible at it. it takes a lot of planning, scripting to make things go smooth. then editing it and getting the sound muxed in so it's useful. it's almost like it's hard enough that people have professional jobs doing it?

I totally love Bad Obsession Motorsport on youtube they do a great job.

I considered making this a vid series but I need to get it done before winter and filming it and making it watchable would take me way more time than I have available.

I understand what you mean but your writeups provide insight and the pics of the build show the anatomy of the truck other wise hidden. I am like Cramer watching an operation with junior mints. so keep it coming.

I blasted the rack to clean off the rust and rattle canned it. got some new bushings and a new linkage. I like re-using the old toyota tubes, don't like those ones that come with the kits.



and she is back in


got those freaking lines back into the spot, having the body makes this task pretty easy.


also re-did my sketchy trans cooler lines with just a little less sketch this time


I used the factory hard line mounts this time but preserved the sweet zip tie setup.


and because I was feeling saucy I picked up a new dip stick tube with a brand new sealing grommet. lets see you leak now you SOB.

so I was all jazzed up on goofballs during the frame swap so I did not take any pics @ all. lucky I had a friend along and he took a couple so this is all I got.

it went really smooth and everything fit like a glove. now I need to put the rest of the truck back together.

old vs new




screwing

Those are some friends you got lol all my friends run for the hills when I being up tools or cars in different sentences lol

That looks awesome. How labor intensive is it to break the body from the frame?

You got brakes, harness, AC, Electrical stuff. And body mounts. I'm sure I'm missing other stuff.

Awesome work. I'm envious

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pickup body, roll frame out, roll new frame in, lower and adjust only takes 30 mins. I did a ton of prep work. I like things to go as planned when the time comes.

radiator, heater core lines, rear heater lines, ebrake cable, fuel lines. AC can stay with the body. I ended up pulling the starter wire harness out from the fuse box and doing that with the frame.

I have been working on that frame since this last spring. a couple of hours after dinner whenever I could sneak out into Santa's workshop.

it's a boat load of work, but that depends on your end game. I like the "looks like it came from the factory" appearance once I'm done. I take my time, no rush I want things to turn out looking nice and be serviceable.

if you have access to a lift and some help you could totally do it in a weekend.
Would be a couple of 10-12 hour days. just really depends on how far you want to go and what condition the donors are in. other than the engine, trans, steering rack, and 3rd member nothing else was usable. rust belt 21 years of winter rusts things into solid non serviceable globs.

You have access to what makes this so easy Post lift, Dollies, extra hands, you have it covered. Lookin real good.

Did you use Energy Suspension's body mount kit or something else ?

With body off would have been perfect time to add bigger and more drains to shock buckets that bugs me every time I wash mine after wheeling, ha.

I paid for access 2 the lift. we worked out a cash deal at the end of their day on Saturday. worked out perfect. I pulled in some favors for the grunt work.

rented a car dolly to shuttle things between my house and the station. it was their first ever body/frame swap so everybody was curious and helped a bit. they are just a service station so they mostly do tires/brakes. great group of guys we all had a good time (I think).

100% yes those are my dollies. I figured it would be a nightmare to try and align things without them. it made it easy to nudge this way and that. It went down and we only had to tap one the fronts a couple times to get it to settle down. nothing got crushed or rekt. I did have to mess with the rag joint a bit but it also slipped into place.

Yes I did go with the energy suspension mounts, they also aligned perfect and everything seems legit. once I get it back on the road I can make a comparison to the OEM mounts on my other truck. still waiting a on new radiator to come next week. should be running by next weekend I would think.

I think the prep-work is everything in something like this... if you don't plan ahead and think things thru you can get into a really bad spot.

pinky is all back into running condition minus the rear bumper... will need to figure something out with that.

the toytec 3" lift is way.... more than the icon 3" lift. or maybe because pinky has lost 20%-30% of his body to rust?

I had a couple of coolant leaks because I forgot to move the clamps into place, DOH!

bleeding the brakes was a biach. the only thing that worked was a combination of the pressure gizmo on the master and a vacuum bleeder from the caliper side. it took 3.5 jugs of brake fluid to get the entire braking system filled back up. the vacuum bleeder is a good addition to any shade tree setup.



brake bleeder setup... run the master @ about 15 psi and the vac full tilt boogie and things flow enough to get the trapped air out of a new system.

Eibach springs/shocks kit?

yes sir sky high

I am a fan of my motive bleeder. I just use it to create pressure on master cylinder resivoir after I top it off then I'll go open bleeders, you know the drill.

15 psi seems a bit high though lol I'll run 3-5.

Glad it worked! It does take some time to get that fluid through those empty lines!



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I'll deliver mine for a frame swap! How much?

Mike

how much difference does the poly bushings make?