I just found a 2000 vin in moon mist JT3HN86R7Y0292674 and grabbed that part. I'm sure you can find a brand new in the Toyota box limited oak someplace in the US.

it seems to me some of the parts that used to be crazy expensive are being sold at a far lower price point because as the 3rd gen gets it's golden years... these parts are just taking up space and they offer them at lower prices. I think, maybe I'm wrong but I have been scooping up OEM interior stuff because the junk yard stuff is... well junk by the time it gets scrapped. sure 10 years ago you could grab mint stuff but now it's pretty grimy.

5890535080E0 I think would be that part for that with the stitched edges.
5890535070E0 I think is the just solid glue on Naugahyde.

I was able to find pretty much any of them local but I have sales tax so I ordered it online and paid shipping. same outlay in price and some dude brings it to my door. My local dealers are big mark-ups except for certain nuts/bolts.

online price + 20%-30% mark up usually.

Apparently I was drinking and shopping on the internet... and I guess I was convinced these lower control arm from a land cruiser LJ77 would be used to create a 3 link suspension.

This is an interesting option drunk sleepydad... hmmm

looks like they need new bushings before anything can happen so... well here we go

Nice. They look like shrunken versions of FZJ80 radius arms.

got the replacement bushings/hardware for 1990 land cruiser LJ 70's series (Prado) rear arms.

god dam I wish we had these things in the USA. they really made these 70's series land cruisers beefy.

I was prepared for a fight but I got a new toy for my press and it just dominates stuff like this.





Now I need to come up with some brackets and get rid of the stock rear lower brackets. this will be fun.

Well I was bored again and probably shopping after drinking. As if I don't already have 11 debillion projects going already but drinking me decided it was time to put some carpet back into the sketchy mobile.



and oh yea I remember some cutting maybe required? and I did not save the old carpet when I tore it out because I was never going to put carpet back into this truck? I guess my past self decided to screw future me, again.


got it all stripped out again for the 20x times I think?


and here it he glamour shot, just like it came from the factree, nice.


if you were color blind this would be a perfect color match. I'm not sure what I'm going to do back seat wise. So I guess it's time to start drinking again and see what I can come up with? maybe cut the back floor out and do some long travel coilovers? I don't know?

it was time to address things on the back door


cleaned up the brackets and removed all the rounding and sharp edges


might as well blast them and give them a shot of rattle can


time to put the new printer to work.


all the hardware ready and brackets re-painted


these little bastards because they tend to shoot across the room and yep gone.


lubed up with fluid film for rust belt protection


nice and snug but not too tight, no play in the new custom bushings


and yes no more wacked in the head



if anybody wants the STL files to generate G-code here is a link to the file on google drive

bushing
bushing.stl - Google Drive

bushing washer
Washer.stl - Google Drive

skinny flat washer for the lower
Washer Top.stl - Google Drive

those little clips are exactly like R.Kelly, they believe they can fly..... & they do.


your rear interior looks mint! love a clean 4runner.

-Charlie

I was really really not happy with the EiBach setup I picked out before. way too much lift and way to hard of a ride.

so why not waste some more meney? heck yea, I'm in!

I needed to find a sketchy way to compress the springs and start the top bolt. I would say this was a success.



I needed some new top plates and who doesn't love some fresh toyota nuts?




Now hopefully if I got the orientation correctly positioned I can put them in tomorrow. setup for 1" of lift. driver on slot 5, passenger slot 4

Jeebus fudge!! Living up to your name a little too much!! I guess if it's a stupid idea and it works it's not stupid? Finish product looks real nice though 👍

That's pretty sketchy, but i have done that in the past so it's not to bad lol. Better then using cinder blocks as jack stands. Good work, I'm actually going to do the same thing tomorrow minus all the new shiny stuffs.

Good job on the carpet. Did you use padding or just the carpet by itself?


You have a 4x front bumper? What's your center hub/fender measurement on those settings? What was your previous front set up?


This is why I need to lean how to 3d print. What is the bushing made out of?

Looks like you split firewood with your bearing press too. Nice. That's the sketchiness we need here.

I ordered it from stock interiors + mass backing. I think it's worth the little bit extra for mass backing because it helps with sound quite a bit.

I had this setup from before... looks like they changed the rear shocks a bit but this was the same kit. sucked rode like a lumber wagon.

TTHA-9602 - Toytec/Eibach 3" lift kit - 96-02 4Runner

I did not measure it with the old setup but you can see from the pics in this threat is was sky high.

new setup is
drive droop 23 1/2
drive ride 21 1/4
2 1/4 difference

pass droop 23 1/2
pass ride 20 3/4
2 3/4 difference

This was the old setup, no bumpers



old setup bumpers


This is the new setup



I have wanted a 3d printer for years but... I never really wanted to put in the "build it myself" effort. They have comes miles in the last couple of years. I was able to take this one "Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer - V4" out of the box and be printing in maybe 30 mins.

I have a strong background in CAD from my woodworking world. The software now is super easy as well. if you have been on the fence because building on seemed like a pain. your out of excuses.

I used PLA 1.75mm filament. I just ordered some ABS filament so I can make them again if the PLA does not hold up. ABS just gives some offgassing like any nasty finish. needs to be vented. PLA is easy and safe but not as resistant. I'm thinking of trying an air intake that is the same size as stock but remove the resonator parts.

Please let me know if you do this! I'd love to get rid of the metal pipe I have in there now... and I'm not shelling out for the Airaid MIT garbage.