03-08-2020, 11:11 PM
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#91
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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That looks so clean in all black! Really curious how you did it!
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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03-11-2020, 11:46 AM
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#92
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imolam3md1
Nice work
Your dash and side door panels where they original black or did you paint/dye them?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I painted them using Duplicolor interior paint. I reupholstered the armrests in black vinyl. I ordered a new carpet kit in black.
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03-11-2020, 05:53 PM
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#93
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCarb
I painted them using Duplicolor interior paint. I reupholstered the armrests in black vinyl. I ordered a new carpet kit in black.
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How difficult was it to reupholster the armrests?
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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06-17-2020, 12:11 PM
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#94
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian.
Just my thoughts on this seat swap. I bought a pair of F30 "base model" seats with their pigtails:
Swapped over the Toyota seatbelt assembly, using a bolt, steel sleeve and bronze bushing to adjust for sizing and spacing. Just stuff I had available in the shop bins, so no clue on sizing.
De-pinned the BMW seatbelt lines and put the plug back in place so everything will still line up and work right with the connector.
Fitting the seats into the 4runner was more frustrating that difficult. The seats are about 1/2" narrower than the 4runner at the rails. But the inside 2 and the front outside all bolted up, thought they clock themselves a little bit. I had to start the bolts and tighten them slowly as they all pulled themselves into place. The outside rear though, needed a new hole:
because it was quite a ways out:
Sadly, this mount doesn't bolt through one of the reinforced areas designed for bolting the seat down. I may revisit this in the future, when it's not so cold and wet outside.
Used 1/4x20 flange bolts, washers on both sides and a few different nuts. Basically, ran a washer to the flange head and then a nut up against that. This fit into the space in the BMW seat so it wouldn't slop around, then through the brackets (Toyota rivets were 1/4", hence my bolt choice) with a washer and lock nut on the bottom.
Still have all of the electronics to deal with. My seats seem to time-out in less than a minute so making adjustments is a pita of stop, connect wires, make adjustment, disconnect wires and drive till I find the need to make another adjustment.
There is a Whole lot more seat travel, especially in the back direction:
even at 6'4", I'm well away from the back stop. Have to get my 5'4" wife into the drivers seat to make sure there's enough Forward range....
They do fit the space well though:
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Brian,
Thanks for posting this - your install looks awesome. I also have F30 seats installed in my truck. I have gotten the main power functions to work (tilt, forward and back, etc.) but have not gotten heated seats or lumbar.
Like you, I have the pigtails that went from the F30 into the floor and have wired that up to the old 4R pigtail.
Do you mind posting a picture of the wires on passenger and driver side that need to be connected, and how, to power lumbar and heated seats? I am having trouble figuring out which wires power what functions.
Thanks!
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06-19-2020, 01:31 PM
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#95
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: collettsville nc
Posts: 122
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: collettsville nc
Posts: 122
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gtjacket3
I am in the process of doing the seat swap also. I only got the seats yesterday so at this point I have only gathered "info" but this might help you with wire location. (if I can get the pic to load)
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06-21-2020, 11:42 PM
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#96
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 7
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Location: Orange County, CA
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For the heater you need to bypass the passenger and drivers module, meaning you won’t be hooking up directly to the yellow plug, find the wires I used in my previous post and follow the diagram
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07-01-2020, 06:27 PM
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#97
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: collettsville nc
Posts: 122
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: collettsville nc
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Has anyone figured out how to make the "memory" function work? I have seat movement in all directions, and both lumbar but NO memory. anyone??
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11-25-2020, 02:49 AM
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#98
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: freehold
Posts: 13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: freehold
Posts: 13
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Just modified and added a 1993 Ford Taurus SHO seat.
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11-25-2020, 05:08 AM
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#99
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 176
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 176
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I did RX8 seats in mine with a easy custom rail...
The wiring harness was super simple, too!
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IG: get_lost_fiffa
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11-26-2020, 12:26 AM
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#100
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: freehold
Posts: 13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: freehold
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I used the plantronics platform but since the seats already sit higher than stock seats, my headroom is almost nothing now. Feels like driving in a freighliner since it's so high, but so comfortable.
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11-26-2020, 02:01 PM
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#101
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Earth
Posts: 862
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Earth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbozeke418
I used the plantronics platform but since the seats already sit higher than stock seats, my headroom is almost nothing now. Feels like driving in a freighliner since it's so high, but so comfortable.
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I feel your pain, the BMW seats also sit higher, and I'm 6'4" with a long torso. Sitting up perfectly straight, I'd need another inch of headroom to fit and not touch (Maybe a non-sunroof vehicle, I lean a little to get into the space occupied by the glass vs the track). I have to "gansta-lean" the seat back to fit with any reasonable comfort. And the worst part, anytime I'm the first vehicle at a stoplight, I have to scrunch way forward to see the farking lights. But, the comfort difference over the OEM seats... I can actually drive a block without being in excruciating pain.
I AM going to drop the rear seat brackets down as low as possible... sometime. I don't think there's much more than an inch of space to be had, but any little bit counts. My 5'4" wife doesn't care, which is good since the 4R is mostly hers anyway.
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11-29-2020, 09:43 PM
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#102
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: freehold
Posts: 13
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Junior Member
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Location: freehold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian.
I AM going to drop the rear seat brackets down as low as possible... sometime. I don't think there's much more than an inch of space to be had, but any little bit counts.
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I did just that. I cut the rear bracket mounts down an inch and it made a world of difference for me. I'm 5'10" and the front of the seat sits higher but it's very comfortable. I just got into the truck a little while ago and as soon as my ass hit the seat I said....AHHHH it's so comfortable! Just be mindful that when you do cut the inch or so out of it, it also changes the location of the mounting holes unless you stretch/change the angle of the bracket also. i didn't account for it so I just rigged it up and it worked.
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11-17-2021, 05:32 PM
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#104
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 40
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Any final word on wiring for the F30 seats?
Quote:
Originally Posted by OCarb
For the heater you need to bypass the passenger and drivers module, meaning you won’t be hooking up directly to the yellow plug, find the wires I used in my previous post and follow the diagram
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I want to do this upgrade, but don't want to do a half-baked install. I have been following all of your notes (OCarb) going back to the original Reddit thread, and it seems like the two things yet to be worked out (or perhaps documented) are: the memory function and the electronics going into sleep mode. Is there any movement on this?
I really appreciate your skills and knowledge and your generosity in sharing it. Thanks!
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Joe Sindorf, Grand Rapids, Michigan
1999 4Runner Limited
260k mi, Auto Trans, 4wd, Locking Rear Diff, v6
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11-17-2021, 08:01 PM
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#105
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Earth
Posts: 862
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Earth
Posts: 862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsindorf
I want to do this upgrade, but don't want to do a half-baked install. I have been following all of your notes (OCarb) going back to the original Reddit thread, and it seems like the two things yet to be worked out (or perhaps documented) are: the memory function and the electronics going into sleep mode. Is there any movement on this?
I really appreciate your skills and knowledge and your generosity in sharing it. Thanks!
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Those require some sort of CANbus communication (well, for drivers... pass doesn't have memory or go to sleep). If you're good with programming, there are CANbus modules out there for Arduino and the like.... or, if you want to invest a bit more time than I did, look into getting the LH/PASSENGER electronics out of a RH drive country car (no memory, but solves the sleep issue).
I ended up with a power switch for the drivers seat. On for moving, off the rest of the time (takes about 30sec of off for it to reset and turn on the next time, I tried "bumping" the CANbus but it was unreliable).
Heaters work fine, independent system... mine are a simple on/off system because that was easy and my wife (main user) only ever uses all or nothing with seat heaters anyway.
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