I've got an 02 Thundercloud Sport. It's new to me with 156k on the clock and I'm not sure if the shocks/struts have ever been changed (although it gives no indication that they are bad).

When it comes time for new shocks/struts, what can I do just to lift it a little bit over stock? I'm not a serious off-roader, just a camper and adventurer and I don't want to introduce a bunch of variables (after-market lift stuff) into the equation that would just complicate things. I read threads on lifts and it seems once you lift, a cascading series of very expensive events can take place. It seems it's never just lifting...It's this because of that, then that because you changed that.

Any advice appreciated, with the understanding that I'm kind of new at all this and if it get's too complicated my eyes will glass over

Here
3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's
And here
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...er-builds.html

I did well with an FJ cruiser spring + bilstein 5100 shock setup for a ~1.5 inch lift with good on road comfort.

Still have the FJ rears if interested.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went with the Wheeler's Offroad Eibach Pro Lift Stage 1 kit. Comes with shocks/struts and all hardware for front/rear.

Modest lift, level ride height, fantastic build quality, and one of the most comfortable lifts I've ridden in. Eibach did their homework.

Oh and it's pretty darn cheap comparatively to the other options out there

OME 880/906 with 5100s all around it a fantastic lift and ride. Absolutely love mine. And I didn’t do anything else. Just got an alignment and done. 800 including alignment.

If I can make a suggestion, instead of using the screw jack on top of the upper control arm to install the new struts loosen all of the control arm bolts to relieve the tension on the bushings. By loosing the control arm bolts it allows the control arms and bushings to find a neutral position with the new lift and in my opinion once the lift is installed and everything is tightened back up the ride quality is superior to using the jack on top of the control arm method. Just make sure the vehicle is sitting on the ground on its own weight before relighting all of the control arm bolts.

If I were you I'd start Really simple. How simple? So simple it will fatten your pocket book.

First things first, how does it sit now? Unless it's squatting like a frog I'd measure each wheel height (center of wheel to bottom of wheel well or whatever consistent points you choose).

It is quite possible it sits just fine for the type of light offroading you intend. I mean Toyota designed it to do just that right out of the box with 11" of clearance!

Second - if you want to lift just for offroading lightly, consider a body lift. Far less expensive and best of all it doesn't affect the center of gravity near as much as other types of lifts (suspension) and also doesn't change the suspension geometries at all, meaning it won't cause additional wear on suspension components.

Body lifts can be had anywhere from .5" to 3+", I'd stick to 2" to keep it simple.

Well my thoughts on saving you bucks and trouble. Luck and enjoy the Runner!

Having just lifted to the 906 rears I would probably go the route of the Landcruiser coils in rear.. Many say the 906 rears ride stiff which i didn't think was right initially. They ride great on road and seem to handle the bigger bumps really well but I will say that after driving dirt with them the real low washboard roads tend to make them dicey. I have been driving dirt for years and never had any issues. My first outing with these coils I was doing 30 on a dirt road nothing crazy straight and it totally got me sideways as they cant handle the really little washboards. makes the back lose traction like how a truck backend gets real loose when not weighted off road.

Every other aspect these springs with the 5100s are much better than my stock ride though for what that is worth.

And yes, I was aired down. down to 20PSI

I am building a rear storage unit to house a bunch of camp gear full time so I'm hoping that helps the springs but i don't think it will be enough weight to make much of a difference.


Don't get in the situation of buying twice like me and many others on this thread...

What year do you have? How much lift did this setup get you?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

The cascading thing:

Any suspension lift at all will require adjustment to camber. If the camber adjuster bolts are orig pretty good chance they are frozen and will need work to get them R/R. Maybe $400 at a shop or $100 diy. This is good to do anyway so you can do more than toe on an alignment, but if you want to stay lean, you can leave em and consider a body lift for any additional clearance.

If you decide to lift suspension (dooooo ittttt).... 2” is sort of the line where you can easily just do suspension and not worry too much about the cascade thing. But you do need a full alignment and beware a lot of alignment shops don’t know what that is, they just set toe and take your money. Camber WILL change with a lift. A lot actually.

My own opinion: You can lift 2” and be on your way after alignment. Front diff spacers not necessary with 2” lift, but it’s cheap and guys in here really like putting them in. Panhard correction kit (lift the mount on axle side) not totally necessary either but it will help rear end behavior, so it’s something you can actually feel especially on highway dips. That’s the right way to adjust axle locating. Keep in mind it’s not that big of deal and you may be happy leaving it stock. Alternatively, adjustable panhard will recenter axle but not fix the ride quality issue

Brake lines and CV angles are okay up to 2”. After that is when things start to unravel.

Are you running 5100's out back? Were you aired down?

This casual off-roader has gotten by with the following for the past 8 years when I bought it bone stock:
1. Remove running boards.
2. Install self-fabricated 1" body lift (don't forget the steering rag joint spacer)
3. Install Stubbs sliders
4. Replace stock '97 springs with '99 "highlanders" I found on Craigslist for $60
5. Replace stock size tires with 285/75-16's

I later replaced the stock rear dampers with Gabriel Hijacker Air shocks to combat the rear end sag when loaded. Front dampers are still stock as far as I know - 215k.

new quick structs from Rock auto
2"Fat bobs garage strut spacer
2" spacers for stock rear coils
FZJ80 stock rear shocks.

~1.5 in lift and will ride like stock. No other things to worry about.