09-23-2020, 08:17 PM
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#31
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: San Francisco Ca
Posts: 872
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: San Francisco Ca
Posts: 872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
Okay cool just wanted to make sure I knew what I was looking for. Does it need to be jacked up or have the weight off the wheels? Or does that not matter?
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Doesn’t matter
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09-24-2020, 11:18 AM
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#32
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
Posts: 5,277
Real Name: Tim
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Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
Posts: 5,277
Real Name: Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
Okay cool just wanted to make sure I knew what I was looking for. Does it need to be jacked up or have the weight off the wheels? Or does that not matter?
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If you watch the beginning parts of the video, you will see the kind of gross play you'll be looking for. Start watching the video at play time 8:03.
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Last edited by mtbtim; 09-24-2020 at 11:20 AM.
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09-24-2020, 12:12 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim
If you watch the beginning parts of the video, you will see the kind of gross play you'll be looking for. Start watching the video at play time 8:03.
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Thanks timmy, I'm going to get under their this weekend for some frame painting so I'll check it then.
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10-10-2020, 04:10 PM
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#34
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Member
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Join Date: May 2020
Location: SW Utah
Posts: 69
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: SW Utah
Posts: 69
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I did my ECGS bushing this weekend.
When I pulled the needle bearing it seems the needles sat too far into the bearing and the bit that holds them in place was what the cv was riding on.
Also, in the process of pulling out the CV Axle I pulled the boot off one of the ends
So I did a new CV axle too.
The roar I had at 35ish (that went away when I put it in 4wd) seems to be gone. The truck is buttery smooth at any speed.
Lets see if it stays that way!
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10-26-2020, 10:59 PM
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#35
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 23
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom8706
I still have the tool in question. Id be willing to give it to you you'd just have to pay for the shipping (couple bucks probably). Or i could make a little side trip and drop it off to you the next time i drive up to Bellingham. If you end up needed it.
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Dom8706 if you still have that tool I would love to borrow it, or hang onto it until I can pass it on to another member. Will cover shipping for sure.
Getting some subtle vibes around 55-65mph after a 2 1/2 inch lift. May not be related to this, but there is PLENTY of play in that drivers side CV for me.
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10-27-2020, 02:08 AM
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#36
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 216
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvergreenPearl
Dom8706 if you still have that tool I would love to borrow it, or hang onto it until I can pass it on to another member. Will cover shipping for sure.
Getting some subtle vibes around 55-65mph after a 2 1/2 inch lift. May not be related to this, but there is PLENTY of play in that drivers side CV for me.
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Yeah i still have it. If you want to message me the address ill send it up to you in the next couple of days. If you wanted to hold onto it until someone else is in need of it that would be great.
Did you get an alignment after installing the lift? Would recommended it if you didnt. I think most people usually do.
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10-27-2020, 05:41 PM
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#37
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 23
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 23
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Cool... Will PM now.
Yes, did the alignment. Got the lifetime alignment at Firestone so I can take it back after doing ball joints and rebooting CVs. I think you're right on to suggest that. It feels like my KO2s are just riding a little on edge and you can see the camber even after alignment. Not convinced they did a great job on the first try.
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10-28-2020, 08:19 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
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Maybe?
Well I think I've developed the roar after all. Does this sound familiar to anybody? Really hoping it's the CVs and not my new driveline acting up.
I believe 4WD helps it somewhat, but certainly doesn't stop it. The driver's side CV has very slight extra play over the passenger side, and has play in all directions;
-audibly starts around 30mph, can start feeling it around 45mph (have noticed it through 55-60mph freeway speeds, not sure if cuts out at higher speeds like 70-80mph). Quiet as a mouse at 25 and below.
-similarly starts around 1500-2000rpm at these speeds
-only with throttle, stops immediately after letting off the gas
-gets worse on hills
-oscillating sound/feel? Like a "wwwommm wwwommm wwwommm"
-starts somewhat abruptly
-vibrates to the point of blurring the mirror
Just this very afternoon, I think I noticed the famous CV clack happen for a split second when making a sharp right turn, so the chances of them being the culprit seems high to me (unless I'm hearing things) but I'd like to know what you guys think - bad axles, bad needle bearing, or bad driveline?
I would replace the needle bearing with the CVs, while I'm at it
Quote:
Originally Posted by EvergreenPearl
It feels like my KO2s are just riding a little on edge and you can see the camber even after alignment. Not convinced they did a great job on the first try.
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As a neighbor just down the road (born in Overlake actually), I can attest nobody around here gives a rats ass with alignment. The rule seems to be "if it's straight, it's good."
I've had to go back for corrections twice now, this year alone. First they gave one of my wheels a positive camber which looked goofy as hell and took corners equally bad. Called them to ask only a couple hours later when I noticed, and they were all shrugs and shoulders, almost sounding like the barely remembered me. Well I figured it was cause of old ball joints so I replaced them and took it back. Then they set my caster way unevenly so I would rub terribly on one side when turning or with bumps. This was from a local Purcell Tire location, formerly a Valvoline shop staffed by the same technicians, nonetheless.
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Last edited by Devbot; 10-28-2020 at 08:22 PM.
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10-29-2020, 01:42 AM
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#39
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 23
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
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Dom8706, I sent you a message with mailing info for that tool. Not sure if you got it. I'm struggling with the PM function on here. Let me know if not.
All, FWIW the vibration I'm getting is very subtle and only there around 55-65mph. Replacing CV's (torn boots), front dif seals (leaking), and ball joints (preventative) this weekend. That may do the trick. It'll be followed by a tire rotation and alignment next week. That may do the trick.
My gut feel is that the vibration is just torn old CV boots flopping around at that speed.
I'll order the ECGS bushing now because, vibrating or not, I'm getting a TON of play in the drivers side CV and don't like the feel of that for longevity.
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11-07-2020, 12:33 AM
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#40
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 23
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
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If anybody needs to use the needle bearing removal tool, I'll have one available in a couple weeks once I get the bushing in. Thanks Dom8706 for the tool.
None of this so far has taken care of the subtle vibration I'm getting post-lift: CV's, alignment, wheel balance, tire rotation, OEM ball joints. It was all either free or needed anyway, so no stress. I'll do the bushing because I am getting a ton of play in the inner driver's side CV joint, but my hunch is that I've got a driveshaft or U-joint issue causing the vibration between 55-65mph.
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11-07-2020, 01:30 AM
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#41
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 23
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 23
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FYI ECGS has a promo code for free shipping... "TW" As in Tacoma World.
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11-07-2020, 02:16 AM
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#42
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvergreenPearl
If anybody needs to use the needle bearing removal tool, I'll have one available in a couple weeks once I get the bushing in. Thanks Dom8706 for the tool.
None of this so far has taken care of the subtle vibration I'm getting post-lift: CV's, alignment, wheel balance, tire rotation, OEM ball joints. It was all either free or needed anyway, so no stress. I'll do the bushing because I am getting a ton of play in the inner driver's side CV joint, but my hunch is that I've got a driveshaft or U-joint issue causing the vibration between 55-65mph.
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If the needle bearing doesnt fix it I'd look at the driveline. I went with drivelines nw in everett myself. Maybe they could give you a second opinion. Either way I 110% recommend buying a new shaft altogether and avoid attempting the u joints - take it from someone who didnt read the advice online and attempted the job. (2 extra broken u joints and 8-10 hours later, the problem was worse somehow)
That said my driveshaft vibration started like a switch at 35mph and I wouldnt describe it as subtle. Also would make a grinding noise at lower speeds - u joints tend to sound shitty when they start to die
Edit: I will gladly claim the tool next, I wiggled my CV as demonstrated in the video and had a HUGE amount of play, and nothing on the passenger side. Gonna order a bearing preemptively. Have any of you guys had trouble with the T-nut not fitting, like in Tim's video?
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
Last edited by Devbot; 11-07-2020 at 11:49 PM.
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11-09-2020, 11:15 AM
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#43
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Placed an order last night, and not even 12 hours later it's been shipped with 2 day priority - pretty damn good! Thanks for the promo code
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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11-14-2020, 11:59 AM
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#44
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 23
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Issaquah, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
If the needle bearing doesnt fix it I'd look at the driveline. I went with drivelines nw in everett myself. Maybe they could give you a second opinion. Either way I 110% recommend buying a new shaft altogether and avoid attempting the u joints - take it from someone who didnt read the advice online and attempted the job. (2 extra broken u joints and 8-10 hours later, the problem was worse somehow)
That said my driveshaft vibration started like a switch at 35mph and I wouldnt describe it as subtle. Also would make a grinding noise at lower speeds - u joints tend to sound shitty when they start to die
Edit: I will gladly claim the tool next, I wiggled my CV as demonstrated in the video and had a HUGE amount of play, and nothing on the passenger side. Gonna order a bearing preemptively. Have any of you guys had trouble with the T-nut not fitting, like in Tim's video?
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Thanks for the tip with your driveline experience. I'll save that route as a last resort. This virbration is subtle enough that it's more of a project or little mystery for me to track down rather than anything urgent.
My bushing should be here any day now but then I need some spare time and good weather to line up for me to do the swap. Give me a couple weeks, but once I do it I'll gladly pass the tool on. And let you know if it helped.
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11-14-2020, 07:58 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvergreenPearl
Thanks for the tip with your driveline experience. I'll save that route as a last resort. This virbration is subtle enough that it's more of a project or little mystery for me to track down rather than anything urgent.
My bushing should be here any day now but then I need some spare time and good weather to line up for me to do the swap. Give me a couple weeks, but once I do it I'll gladly pass the tool on. And let you know if it helped.
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Not a problem, I'm not in that big a rush to do it. If I do get to the point, I'm positive I can make the tool at my machine shop, nothing more than a T-nut, a jam nut, a threaded rod and steel plate. Just too lazy to at the moment lol
edit: you guys replacing the axle seal while you're at it? not sure if it's recommended
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
Last edited by Devbot; 11-15-2020 at 01:39 PM.
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