Sounds like a mechanical problem, not an electrical problem. The higher reading you are getting is probably the extra resistance of your test leads/setup, coupled with using a cheap meter. They are all matched, so you are good there.

Get those injectors cleaned and flow tested by any one of the services out there (no personal experience, otherwise I'd suggest one).

-Charlie

Slight update. I brought my injectors up to my brothers job (he's an EE) and used another meter there, all tested within spec and we figured my Fluke i out of calibration. I sent the injectors off to a rebuild shop in CO that promises to spend the most time of anyone working on your injectors (review to follow later) and apparently that's true because the guy has had them almost two weeks.

Since, I knew it was going to be a little bit before I could get it running again and I was already at the valve cover I decided to go ahead and take care of my leaking gaskets.



Ordered the kit from PartsGeek and got good service (I read a lot of bad reviews on them after I ordered) & picked up the FIPG/PCV from my local dealer as they were close enough in price to Camelback to be cheaper without shipping. I didn't take any pictures while in progress as my hands were dirty, and everyone has seen pictures like them multiple times. Engine was really clean, so I guess the PO did one thing right and I can go back to using regular synthetic, I had been using a HDO mixed with MMO to clean it up because I suspected it to be sludgy based on all the other "maintenance" I'd found. The job required way less FIPG than I thought, so I hope I used enough.
After I did the valve covers I replaced all the plugs and wires too, I used the NGK double platinums with their blue wires; I might replace the coil boots before I get everything back together, I'm still not sure it's necessary.
Anyway, that's where I'm at with this whole thing. Here's a current shot with the fresh valve covers:

Hey Guys,
I finally got my rebuilt fuel injectors installed and so far (Done about 20 miles of driving) no misfire, so I think that may have solved my issue. As I stated earlier, I got them rebuilt by a shop out of Denver call Fuel Injection Specialists, though I personally think the shop is one guy named Chuck. Chuck is friendly enough and seems knowledgeable, and always either answered or called back promptly. I choose this particular shop over all the other's because he promised to send before/after pictures of your injectors and he performed his tests at room temp and also heated up to normal operating temp, this was the only shop I saw that did either of these things. The cheapest rebuilders I found ran around $17/injector and the most expensive was about $23/injector, FIS was $20/injector, so about average. Their website is older and kinda sketchy looking, but after calling I decided to take a chance on them.

Here's a brief timeline:
3/1 - Called, talked to Chuck, we decided it could be my fuel injectors, but he wasn't 100%, he told me to try a few things before I wasted my money, these were things I'd already tried though (plugs, moving coils, etc)
3/4 - Shipped injectors
3/7 - He received them via USPS tracking
3/12 - I called to check on my injectors, he admitted that he had them but hadn't even opened the box because he was behind at the shop
3/13 - Bomb Cyclone hits Denver
3/14 - Chuck calls to tell me he's done with my injectors, but didn't find anything wrong with them, after hearing of my hard hot starts we decide that he's going to hold on to them a little longer and preform a longer hotter leak down test
3/19 - Chuck calls to tell me that he's ran all the test he can and still can't find anything wrong with them, he asks me to call and get with him once I install weather they work or not

So, I got my injectors in and Chuck also included an extra rebuilt injector with harness (He had mentioned my harness/connector could be bad) for only a few dollars more, cool guy. You'll notice there's only 5 originals and 2 extra in the picture, I had broke the pintle cap on one injector upon removal and Chuck didn't have any extras so instead he cleaned it and rebuilt one he had on hand to replace it.



And here's two pages out of the huge packet of pictures he sent me, as you'll see my injectors do appear to have been fine, but somehow this still fixed my misfire.

The 4Runner has been running great since all the work the other week.
I'm trying to speed up a few little to do's on it since I want to take in a fly fishing trip in the Ozarks in mid-July. First on the list are the DOM sliders I bought in 4X Innovations black Friday sell last Nov.

Here's a small collage of the progress made on those:


I removed the side steps and brought everything over to my families shop, my brother ad I welded them all up, and then I put on two coats of red oxide primer followed by two coats of Hammerite paint; that stuff is thick, but should be extremely durable.

I'm currently waiting a few days for the paint to cure before we weld them to the frame. After that I want to do a cooling system and transmission flush, with a (OE) radiator replacement at the same time. Then hopefully, I'll have time to install the lift I've had in my shop for a year.

Trying to get everything done I need for this trip and as always life finds ways to keep me away.

I did replace the rear wiper though, and converted to arm to standard J-hook from whatever Toyota had stock, everyone should do this...

Finally getting stuff done, sliders welded on
Slider Install by Bobby Bryan, on Flickr

Did quite a bit of preventative maintenance over my July 4th holiday in preparation for my trip to the Ozarks this week.
I flushed both the coolant system and the transmission, the PO had switched to Prestone green, after 10 gallons of distilled water I switched it back over to Zerex pink (I really wanted Toyota red, but my local dealer refused to order any for me), the trans got a full flush with MaxLife.
In the middle of all this I also replaced my radiator (OE), thermostat(OE), and radiator hoses (Gates), and maybe most importantly mounted a trans cooler. I went with a Hayden 698, it's the same size as the TRD cooler, buy has a pressure by-pass that doesn't send fluid through it until it hits 180°F. I also replaced my horns with a pair off a Lexus LS400, they're a lot better sounding and are plug-and-play.
I really wanted to do my LBJ (hopefully I'm not jinxing myself here) but I ran out of time with all the events my wife and family obligated me too. Those will have to wait until it cools off in the fall I guess, it's getting too hot here now.

Here's a picture of how I rigidly mounted my trans cooler; I didn't want to do the whole zip-tie through the condenser/radiator thing, it just seems stretchy to me and would make replacing any of three a pain down the line. Also, here's my horns and other new parts, posts are always better with pictures.

July 4th Work by Bobby Bryan, on Flickr

Is this a Toyota adapter?

~Tony

No, it's a universal part made by Bosch, just search for Bosch Wiper Arm Adapter, or type in that long part number in the pic.

Recently, back from fly fishing on the White River, it was easily the longest road trip I've taken in the 4Runner since I got it at 300 miles one-way with the last/first 50 miles all dirt roads through the Boston Mountains as planned by me on Gaia. It seemed to handle the drive well with all my recent maintenance, trans temperature stayed most between 175-195°F, dropping on the interstate and going a few degrees higher when climbing hills. My only issues were my lower fan shroud falling off, which I zip tied back on (it appears to have lost the clips and got pulled in to the fan, I'll be buying a new one as this one got beat up) and I popped CEL# P0136 as I pulled on my street home. I cleared this code via Torque and I'll be waiting to see if comes back before buying a new O2 sensor. I don't have any pictures of my 4Runner doing anything cool because all I did was go down back roads, but here's one of it at an overlook on the way back.

20190712_154544[1] by Bobby Bryan, on Flickr

Not a whole lot to report, I'm currently furloughed due to all this COVID-19 business so I've spent a lot of time in the Ouachita Mountains driving and hiking.
I replaced all my diff and transfer case fluids last week with SuperTech Synthetic 75W-90; my front-diff got about .25 qt of Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-140 though, because I ran out and that's all I had on hand, I don't think that little amount will hurt anything though. The drain plugs had a horrible Antiseize-like film on the magnets, not sure if the fluid had ever been changed before so I'm thinking about doing another change in 10k miles; I wanted to run Amsoil, but I couldn't afford it at this time. I plan on doing my oil this upcoming week if it ever stops raining.
I still haven't put my lift on, I'm wanting to grab some JBA Control arms first, this whole shut down has everything on hold though. I grabbed a Corolla S wheel from a junkyard I want to put on too, but it needs an airbag.
This picture is from a NFS road North of Mena, AR I spent a day riding around there and lot more time driving the trails around Albert Pike, the trans cooler is still working great and no leaks reported from valve covers so that's all good, all and all, just loving my weekend warrior.

North of Blackfork Mt. by Bobby Bryan, on Flickr

At some point during all my COVID hiking trips I realized my brake pedal had become very hard making panic stops impossible, so I started driving a lot more cautiously. After hiking and deer season ended I started diagnosing via Google and a vacuum tester/gauge, I determined it was the brake booster and some more Googling turned up the fact that the OEM is/was Seiken. I knew I wanted the OEM as a lot of people reported issues with parts stores' brands and the OE lasted me 20 years; in my search for the best price I got with Cruiser Yard as I noticed they great deals on Seiken boosters for LC's, and he was able to undercut everyone else's prices on 4Runner boosters and offer a 2 year warranty, also better than everyone else. I read a couple of how-to's & watched a a YouTube video on replacing the booster and did the swap today, I won't go in to much details as there's been plenty about it online, but if anyone has questions I'll be glad to answer them. I was able to pull off the job without completely removing the master cylinder, and you basically only need a 12mm deep well socket. Got everything buttoned back up and my test drive revealed perfect braking again.

Seiken Brake Booster by Bobby Bryan, on Flickr