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Old 01-07-2019, 06:02 PM #1
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Cardone Reman Brake Booster = GARBAGE

So, rather than drop some $800+ on an OE brake booster back in October 2017, I purchased a "Cardone remanufactured" brake booster from a reputable parts site.

Just 16 months later, the POS has failed leaving me in the lurch. So, word of warning for anyone considered this brand (Cardone) of re-manufactured brake booster - DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY.

Searching parts yards now for an OE....
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Old 01-07-2019, 07:48 PM #2
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Did you look on eBay for a used oem one ? Did you try local junk yards or car-parts.com ?
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Old 01-07-2019, 08:46 PM #3
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With the exception of calipers, anything reman'd is taking a risk. I refuse to put reman'd parts on my 4Runner but I have plenty of junkyard parts in it. Sorry you had to learn that one the hard way.
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Old 01-07-2019, 10:13 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kolelt View Post
Did you look on eBay for a used oem one ? Did you try local junk yards or car-parts.com ?
As mentioned in the original post, I am stalking pull yards for an OE booster. I sent Cardone an email but don't have high hopes they will respond. If they do - then great. If not - at least I can warn others......
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Old 01-07-2019, 11:48 PM #5
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Power booster

The Seiken brake booster P/N W0133-1741918 is supposedly the OEM. I replaced mine back in November with this booster and it was identical. It's a little expensive $340, but I wanted a quality part and this was the best one I could find short of getting the same part from the dealer for a lot more. U can get this on Amazon.
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Old 01-08-2019, 12:09 AM #6
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The Seiken brake booster P/N W0133-1741918 is supposedly the OEM. I replaced mine back in November with this booster and it was identical. It's a little expensive $340, but I wanted a quality part and this was the best one I could find short of getting the same part from the dealer for a lot more. U can get this on Amazon.
Great post! I looked it up. Appears to be a likely OEM supplier. Even if not, then this is a brand new Japanese made part. That info right there makes it a better bet. If it is OEM, then $340 is peanuts.
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Old 01-08-2019, 12:26 AM #7
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I should also add this booster worked for my 2000 SR5 4runner and I'm pretty sure this booster had the same p/n on it as my original one and indeed is made in Japan, which made me feel better about purchasing it.
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Old 01-08-2019, 01:00 AM #8
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What on earth are you guys doing with these reman parts? Beating them with hammers?
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Old 01-08-2019, 07:25 AM #9
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Avoid CARDONE completely. I have used their reman parts for a long time, but in the last year their QC is crap. I bought powder coared calipers for my car an one leaked like it was pissing on my wheel. The replacement caliper shows wetness along the seamline of the two halves. Im too lazy to swap it out again.

Two years ago, the cardone caliper I bought came pre-seized.

Steer clear of CARDONE.
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Old 01-08-2019, 12:22 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APhelps View Post
What on earth are you guys doing with these reman parts? Beating them with hammers?
No need too, Reman folks do it before we get the parts, Lol.
Like @Drcoffee mentioned, I bought reman calipers whoever did the work didn't
torque bolts that hold halves together o-ring blew out first hard braking I did.

@BamaDrewski , Thanks for the heads up!
Look on the bright side, I have a 01 with the hiiigghhh dollar brake system.
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Old 01-08-2019, 01:00 PM #11
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I have a brand new reman booster and am suspicious that it is junk right out of the box. The seiken seems to be a great option and I am filled with regret for my reman booster.

Anyone know a way to test the actual amount of assist the booster is putting out?
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Old 01-08-2019, 01:21 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Tanz View Post
I have a brand new reman booster and am suspicious that it is junk right out of the box. The seiken seems to be a great option and I am filled with regret for my reman booster.

Anyone know a way to test the actual amount of assist the booster is putting out?
Why do you speculate it is junk right out of the box?

Typically you need to actually install it to test the functionality of it. It operates off engine vacuum and I'm not sure if you'll damage something by actuating without a master cylinder on.
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Old 01-08-2019, 02:02 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APhelps View Post
Why do you speculate it is junk right out of the box?

Typically you need to actually install it to test the functionality of it. It operates off engine vacuum and I'm not sure if you'll damage something by actuating without a master cylinder on.
It was installed by my mechanic as a replacement for the 21 year old factory unit that went bad. When I panic stop, aka slam the brakes, the pedal is absolutely rock hard at the top of the travel and the truck doesn't slow well at all. After it is held for what feels like an eternity (actually probably two seconds) and the pedal goes deeper into the stroke the truck does slow and it seems I have boost low in the travel of the pedal.

As the beginning of the stroke seems to be the issue, I thought this might have been an issue with the check valve that it was shipped with, so I bought a Toyota factory new check valve and grommet, but the Toyota one is way larger than the replacement valve. This actually leads me to believe that the booster which was put on the car is not a factory reman as the hole which accepts the check valve and grommet are not the same size as the Toyota factory version.

When I had the check valve which came on the reman booster off I blew some air into it to see how smooth it was and was not impressed. The Toyota version easily allows air to pass and promplty shuts when vacuum goes the wrong way. The one that came on the reman has a lot of resistance to airflow and the valve itself does not seem super compliant in shutting when, as Garth Algar may say, you go from suck to blow.

Is my line of thinking way off? O'Reilly sells a cheap plastic universal booster check valve I was considering installing to see if it helps at all.
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:57 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Tanz View Post
It was installed by my mechanic as a replacement for the 21 year old factory unit that went bad. When I panic stop, aka slam the brakes, the pedal is absolutely rock hard at the top of the travel and the truck doesn't slow well at all. After it is held for what feels like an eternity (actually probably two seconds) and the pedal goes deeper into the stroke the truck does slow and it seems I have boost low in the travel of the pedal.

As the beginning of the stroke seems to be the issue, I thought this might have been an issue with the check valve that it was shipped with, so I bought a Toyota factory new check valve and grommet, but the Toyota one is way larger than the replacement valve. This actually leads me to believe that the booster which was put on the car is not a factory reman as the hole which accepts the check valve and grommet are not the same size as the Toyota factory version.

When I had the check valve which came on the reman booster off I blew some air into it to see how smooth it was and was not impressed. The Toyota version easily allows air to pass and promplty shuts when vacuum goes the wrong way. The one that came on the reman has a lot of resistance to airflow and the valve itself does not seem super compliant in shutting when, as Garth Algar may say, you go from suck to blow.

Is my line of thinking way off? O'Reilly sells a cheap plastic universal booster check valve I was considering installing to see if it helps at all.
How does it perform under normal braking? I'm inclined to believe that a functioning brake booster is going to work or not. I do suppose it is possible that it isn't getting enough vacuum to function properly when panic stopping. Do you know that your master cylinder is working correctly?

If the check valve isn't fitting it probably isn't a factory reman. At least that is what a factory part not fitting would imply to me.
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Old 01-08-2019, 06:45 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Tanz View Post
It was installed by my mechanic as a replacement for the 21 year old factory unit that went bad. When I panic stop, aka slam the brakes, the pedal is absolutely rock hard at the top of the travel and the truck doesn't slow well at all. After it is held for what feels like an eternity (actually probably two seconds) and the pedal goes deeper into the stroke the truck does slow and it seems I have boost low in the travel of the pedal.

As the beginning of the stroke seems to be the issue, I thought this might have been an issue with the check valve that it was shipped with, so I bought a Toyota factory new check valve and grommet, but the Toyota one is way larger than the replacement valve. This actually leads me to believe that the booster which was put on the car is not a factory reman as the hole which accepts the check valve and grommet are not the same size as the Toyota factory version.

When I had the check valve which came on the reman booster off I blew some air into it to see how smooth it was and was not impressed. The Toyota version easily allows air to pass and promplty shuts when vacuum goes the wrong way. The one that came on the reman has a lot of resistance to airflow and the valve itself does not seem super compliant in shutting when, as Garth Algar may say, you go from suck to blow.

Is my line of thinking way off? O'Reilly sells a cheap plastic universal booster check valve I was considering installing to see if it helps at all.
sounds like my problem. new brake booster it is. i just replaced my check valve and grommet and it doesnt make a difference.
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