As soon as you mentioned Steve's page I
Awesome re-find and good confirmation on that part number.

Parts ordered. Now to find banjo fitting brake lines to fit the calipers and clean that up.


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And all back together. No more clunk or so I think. I did however flug up some hub stud bolts, pretty sure it’ll require a trip to the machine shop or a mobile welder.


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Other than the hub studs that is awesome to hear!

The T4R forum has excellent technical information, so sorry to threadjack and pollute your forum with my lowly Tacoma. I converted it to manual hubs several years ago with light off-road exploring and civilized road manners in mind. Everything's worked flawlessly ever since then. No drivetrain vibes, no CV axle issues, etc.

It's not my daily driver anymore and I've been prepping it to start doing some moderately difficult trails with a small group of people I regularly go on outings with. I've already installed a winch bumper, Harrop e-locker in the rear, welded on rock sliders, installed OME suspension front and rear, with skid plates and a rear bumper on the way. I keep hearing over in the Tacoma forums that manual hub CV axles are weak as matchsticks and ADD CV axles are so much stronger they're worth the trade offs on lifted trucks.

I'm also planning on buying a Harrop for my front diff this fall as a birthday present. Do any of you with manual hubs, @sschaefer3 , @habanero , @Jaysen4runner , or anyone else, think that's a bad idea and I should switch back to ADD CV axles for more difficult off-roading and a front diff lock?

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There are pros and cons about the non-add vs add. All depend on what you want to do. Yes, manual locks out cvs are (outer shaft to hubs)27 splines vs add 30 splines. I been wheeling hard thru some pretty rough trails are here in Fresno, Ca. I haven't had any issue. Plus side is if the CV blow unlock and wheel it out in 3 wheel..but most CV dont break on the 27spline outer shaft, it breaks on the outer CV bearing cage. Add and non add cage is the same. So if you upgrade to Lotus CVs I'm sure its would hold up just fine. Feel free to chime in if I'm wrong!����

Pros: 1) free front axle from leaking cvs
2) wheel out in 3 wheel if broken
3) 2wd Low range
4) all inner cage the same as add cvs (not sure why its
weak, doesn't break on the 27spline shaft)��*♂️
5) less wear on front end parts
6) looks cool and give you the old school Toyota
feature
7) Less parts to fail on trail when you actually wheel
your shit (electronics)


Cons: 1) Rare, hard to find parts.for spare hubs, lockouts.
2) Maintenance if drive alot into water holes
3) LT kit hard and expansive to have custom cvs made
for non add axles
4) Too lazy to lock the hubs( why when you have to air
tires down anyways ����*♂️)

References to broken manual hub CVs? Have we got pictures of these CVs in torsional failure or is this just the typical web wheeler BS?

@Jaysen4runner , thanks for the great info. I'd never heard of Lotus CV axles until now.

I'm sure a lot of this talk is internet web wheeler BS, but post #13 here is what got me worried considering I'm on junkyard steering knuckles and CV axles:

Looking for a manual hub swap writeup | Tacoma World

@DJB11

Good info on the Taco forum about these axles. It's interesting to see multiple accounts of folks losing a manual hub axle at the outer stub end. Looking at the fractures you can see where the groove for the snap ring initiated the failure. From that standpoint yes -- the ADD design is no doubt a sturdier geometry. Something to think about for sure.

I'd love to hear from the guys that have busted manual axles 1) tire size 2) running with front locked or open?

Going thru the fourm alot of these guys are running aftermarket cvs. OEM cvs are recommended for the swap or running the hubs. There not much wear on the cvs, reboot and reuse them. Again everyone has a different type of driving style. I crawl the 4runner, not pedal down to the floor.

I sold some 4Runner 5 spoke wheels to a dude a few weeks ago. He had a 1st gen Tacoma with front and rear ARB lockers, 5:29 gears, 35" tires and manual hubs. He said he hammers on his truck and hasn't had any issues breaking CVs. He believes the trick is OEM CV axles and a diff drop to reduce side-loading the inner CV stubs.

Now I'm re-committed to manual hubs. I'm in the middle of regearing to 4:88's with Harrops front and rear, when I'm done with that I've got reman OEM CV axles and a Sonoran Steel diff drop ready to go in, and 255/85r16s ordered. Thanks everyone for your input!

They're beautiful...

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Hey guys,

I’m having a similar issue as the OP, and think I am missing that snap ring too. I’m sorry if I missed it, but what is the part number for that snap ring?

Also, I’m afraid- when I did the swap 80k miles ago- I used the standard drive flange type wheel bearing with my manual locking hubs.

Does anyone know if things would even go together right if I did? What’s the difference between the auto and manual locking hubs’ wheel bearings? Manual have the needle bearings as well, but auto don’t?

Please help- this is my daily, and I’m about loosing my mind about it.

I’m in a new state, without my tools or garage, and don’t know of any reputable mechanics I would trust with my rig.

Thank you!