Hey peeps,

I am going to do my first oil change on my 1997 4Runner SR5 V6 3.4L 2WD. I am doing a drain and fill for the first few times before I move up to Amsoil for the Transmission and Rear Differential. I just wanted to go over what I am going to be using for the time being.

All recommendations or suggestions are welcome and appreciated, if I can pick it up locally, even better.

If you see something wrong, call it out.

Engine Oil: Castrol Edge SAE 5w-30
Transmission Fluid: Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Automatic
Rear Differential: ??? (I would move up to use Amsoil Synthetic 80W-90, but I do not know what to use in the meantime.)

Edit: I am around 260k by the way.

Wally's full synth 75-140 is what i've used for nearly 200K miles, zero issues and Cheap. Why pay more?

Oil:
Most all modern engine oils are excellent – even the cheap Walmart oil. So the real benefit of engine oil is just replacing it in a timely matter. That said, if you want to split hairs, then debating the pros & cons of modern engine oils is an excellent place to begin. I and many others have gone down this path already and eventually just pick whatever seems like a decent deal and tickles our fancy. I personally like using Valvoline full or semi synthetic high-mileage maxlife oil for the high mileage additives since I’m kinda high mileage these days.

Tranny oil is the same:
I use the Valvoline High mileage max life (red bottle). I did a full 16qt tranny flush @ around 375,000 miles. My transmission shifts firm and solid AF @ 440,000. At 450k I’ll probably start doing drain and fills every 10k till about 500k. That’s my plan anyway...

Gear oil:
I think I used Valvoline oil as well but don’t recall for sure when I replaced @ around 350k I think. I’ll be doing the rear axle bearings and seals soon, so I’ll probably be replacing it all again with the same.

Anyways, nothing wrong with whatever you choose, just make sure you change it when appropriate.

I've tried that Castrol Edge in my Corolla and for me it turns black real early. Valvoline max life seems to hold up better for similar money.

Thank you for the info. I will go ahead and try Castrol first and see how that holds up. If it is too bad then I will go ahead and switch over to Valvoline. I will also go for the Valvoline Max Life Transmission Fluid since it seems like a safe bet.

As far as the Rear Differential I pulled up the owners manual and found:

Above -18 C
SAE 90
Below -18 C
SAE 80W or 80W-90

jgue467 mentioned using 75-140, would that be safe?

I also want to add that I am hitting 260k miles.

As far as gear oil goes it probably doesn't matter at all. I think I'd aim for the higher stuff just because I'm lazy and I'm not the best at draining fluids when they are suppose to be done. I'd wager to bet that as long as the bearings are lubricated and cooled its really a non factor. The clearances in those can't be that small.

As far as automatic fluid goes, I'd definitely be particular since automatic transmissions can be quite particular about what they like / don't like.

Sorry if this has been answered many times before but I'm lazy and thought I'd ask here. Since you can't get all the tranny oil out is it ok to mix and max different fluids?

Also don't forget to consider the engine oil filter. I saw a video the other day where a guy cut open a Fram and was speechless at how bad the construction was. That was the Extra Guard. I have the Ultra Synthetic one which is supposedly better. Well I just changed it with a Napa Gold one so I'll cut it open and see.

When would one ever be able to drain out all the fluid in any system of a vehicle? I'm fairly certain that all the fluids in a vehicle have some sort of ASE standard so it isn't possible for one to mix and match (same style of) fluids and have some sort of failure.

Engine oil- Valvoline max life high mileage
Transmission fluid - Valvoline max life full synthetic
Differential - Amsoil severe duty

I would do a full fluid exchange for the transmission fluid and don't waste your time doing series of drains/fills. Do it all at once and be done with it. Then, you can do a drain/fill at whatever interval you feel like. I like to do it either every other oil change (overkill) or every 3rd oil change (in reality, still way overkill).

No reason to "move up" on the rear diff fluid, just put in it whatever you want and be done with it.

A few other things of note since I'm assuming you are new to these trucks. If you have an auto, replace the radiator (search pink milkshake) and replace the coolant.

Lower ball joints are notorious for failing, should be replaced every 100k miles with OEM parts ONLY. If you have no record of them being replaced with OEM parts, this should be high on the priority list.

I would also replace the rear differential breather (search rear diff breather mod).

These trucks are crazy reliable but like any truck that is 20+ years old, it still needs some love.

PS. Read this 3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

And a couple members on here (Tim/Sean) have made some of the best DIY videos I've ever seen for these trucks (or any vehicle for that matter). They have videos for just about everything you'll need to do. YouTube

Engine Oil - Rotella T6 (yes "diesel oil")
Trans - Valvoline max life full synthetic
I have yet to do drivetrain fluids.

For engine oil, as stated previously, these engines are forgiving. Choose an oil weight within reason for your use and climate, and most modern oils will provide negligible differences as long as they're changed at proper intervals.

Whatever you do, do it slowly. Complete fluid changes to ones of different properties (lubricity, detergency, etc) can break things loose that weren't before causing clogs and other problems.

Engine Oil, I switched from dino oil to full synth over a few oil changes with seafoam treatments in between. Now I run full syn with a WIX synth filter and only change oil once a year. I check the level and top off as necessary, which equals about a quart over the course of a year.

Diff fluid, this stuff is not indestructible, but under the right conditions can last a long time. Check the level (many never do) and make sure it's free of contaminants, like water. I use 85-140 conventional because that's what the Aussie Locker wants, but in an open diff 80-90W is fine, and full synth is fine as long as it's compatible with your rear diff setup.

Transfer case(s) are similar to differentials in the sensed that they need gear oil and if not abused or contaminated can last a long time. Check the levels occasionally and make sure you can open the fill plug before you drain all the fluid if you decide to change - same with rear diff.
I don't have a TC, BTW

Trans Fluid, this is where hell can break loose, literally. See my first comment. A series of drain and fill fluid exchanges over time was prudent for me; everytime I wheeled and cooked my trans fluid (temps over 220° seen) I drained and filled from the pan until eventually I did replace all the trans fluid. Wrote a post about it too https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3018196-post127.html

No problem as long as you use compatible fluids recommended for your trans/vehicle; ATF + ATF. I did a complete trans fluid change (Castrol Import to Valvoline High Mileage) via a pump and fill and my trans has been great even though there was some mixing/co-mingling of fluids.

[QUOTE=octanejunkie;3205760]
Trans Fluid, this is where hell can break loose, literally. [QUOTE]

This was pretty accurate for me. I had a solenoid go bad so I had to drop the pan and replace the fluid. I did a full fluid exchange via the radiator hose and within a month my trans was now slipping and eventually didn't want to move. Prior to that it ran PERFECT. I got lucky when installing a new trans and adding new fluid. The trans is the most finicky of all of the fluids probably because of the clutch plates.

Now this is my first 4R so bear that in mind, but if you're going to Amsoil anyway, why the intermediate steps?
I've used Amsoil since 1987 and when I buy a vehicle I change everything over as soon as I can get to it. Overkill? Maybe. But lubrication related problems have been zero for over 30 years and quite a few vehicles.

Lots of good replies here so far!

I'm partial to the Rotella T6. Many other oils are good though. Use an OEM filter unless you have a specific reason to do something else. (I also use Purolator and Bosch filters, do your own research)

Heavier oil in the rear diff is fine, but may not help you and might hurt mileage a bit. If you aren't towing heavy loads or doing heavy off roading, it probably isn't necessary. Check for rear axle seal leaks (oil in the ABS sensor hole).

Just do a quick drain and refill on the trans every other oil change for a while (every 10k miles). If it shifts well now, no need to really rock the boat. The 2WD trans has a smaller pan and only changes 2 or 3 quarts at a time instead of the larger amount on the 4WD trans pan.

-Charlie

Check out Redline oil and fluids... the reviews for Redline are outstanding whether it is engine oil, brake fluids, or transmission fluid, etc.

It takes a little effort and planning to get Redline since you usually have to order it online. My backup plan for engine oil is usually Mobil 1.

After a lot of research I am going to try and use Redline fluids all around for my 4Runner. I realize that as long as you change the fluids at the recommended intervals with a suitable product you will be fine, but I would rather spend a little more and use a top of the line fluid. For the brake fluid I may use ATE TYP 200 Amber instead of the relatively new Redline RL 600. Both are Dot 4 and have wet boiling points around 400 degrees Fahrenheit, so either one is a top of the line brake fluid.



Here is Redline's Application Guide link for your vehicle:
Red Line Synthetic Oil

Redline fluids for my 4Runner:
5W30 Motor Oil
D4 ATF (transmission and power steering)
75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil (both front and rear differentials plus transfer case of 4x4 models)
RL 600 Brake Fluid