The B&M 70264 is what I installed, the kit comes with the zip tie's and metal brackets.
Though not a fan of plastic tie's how I mounted it. be sure to use rubber iso pads between the two.
It's best to have no gap between condensor and cooler for maximum air draw from fan.
Helps to perform better at low speeds as on trails.
Had it for 100k mi no problems with tie's

I'm sort a on the fence about this. I do think i need to change my radiator to preemptively fix the milkshake issue. I would be happy if there was some replacement radiator that had the trans loop totally separated. Even a slightly smaller dedicated radiator for just the engine would be fine, since I could add one of the BM trans coolers. Unfortunately, the only thing I can think of would be to get a manual radiator, which will probably be hard to find.

Bypassing the stock one and just running a B&M (or other external) is a smaller dedicated radiator. Depending on your use and the environmental conditions it may be adequate, it may not be.

I am also not a fan of the ties. I highly recommend not putting the ties through the radiator but only the A/C condenser. First time I put it on I put it through both and it started to bend fins on my radiator. I removed the radiator, cut the ties and did them only through the A/C condenser. That way if they ever shake things too much I only lose my A/C, not my coolant!

I agree. It doesn't take too much work to install it with the supplied brackets, bent to shape. Here is how I did mine, using only the existing holes in the truck:

Ha I got lazy n ran it through both knowing I didn't like it, bypassed OCD.
When I do the 01 will use metal brackets like Leon and put a rubber shroud
Around it.

I vote for an external cooler. I also just added a oil thermostat inline with mine as well. I was over cooling mine a little to much, It now runs @154 cruising on the hwy, and i have yet to see it above 175.

Thanks for all the input, I talked with my mechanic who does all the work I dont have the time for. He said that since the radiator is likely already going to be out for the timing belt, that he would just charge me parts for it. So that's good news.

I could start a build thread but its kinda a waste. Im not doing anything special. My dad used my 99 SR5 for a hunting rig. He got it at 180k and had the brake master and booster replaced, we did the front pads. He had much of the suspension replaced including the LBJ. All the fluid, so at this point I am just finishing up some of the maintenance. Its my daily driver and until recently was going to sell it and buy something newer. Now, with my first baby on the way I have decided to keep it and build it. No car payment is nice for once. After the maintenance is done I will be ordering a lift kit and 285's. Probably pick up some TRD wheels on Craigslist. Based on how the new Assault weapon ban goes in congress im either going to buy a True North front bumper, sliders and Savage skid plate or more guns LOL

Make a build thread bro! The good thing about it is it also serves as a maintenance log for yourself. I just collected all the parts/tools for the timing belt/radiator/trans cooler/trans filter.. Just waiting for a couple last things to arrive to begin.

I just did similar work to my "new to me" Runner that I got in October. My 2000 had 204k miles on it and the previous owner did pretty well on maintenance but the radiator was original. I replaced all three belts, thermostat, thermostat gasket, both hoses, radiator cap, and a few other small bits like interior push pins. All parts were Toyota OEM from Camelback Toyota online parts for $265 with free shipping which be was not bad at all. The radiator was Taiwanese but it fit great and the only difference was the drain design. I topped it off with Toyota red and it was a feel-good job done. Before I replaced the parts my running temps were around 200 degrees and I noticed the dingle on thermostat was at the 12 o'clock position when I removed it. I installed the new thermostat with the dingle at the 6 o'clock position and now I run 188.6 to 192.4 degrees consistently so thermostat orientation does make a difference.

I have be a B&M cooler and magnetic filter ready to go in but I decided to wait for the summer. My original plan was to bypass the trans cooler in the radiator but I live in Michigan and do short trips so to me it made sense to have the engine coolant help warm up the trans fluid. I don't do much offroading and don't do much towing but it's my daily driver and eventually I may tow a camper so the cooler can wait.

I would also suggest replacing the check valve and grommet for the brake booster. My brakes were stiff in the cold mornings and had the firm pedal but for the most part worked what I thought was ok. When I replaced the check valve my brakes were never hard again, the braking felt stronger and the remaining brake pulse I had after turning my rotors went away. Not bad for $42 in parts. Since then I've done the TBU with Napa eclipse calipers, Stoptech stainless braided lines, Centric rotors, and Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic pads. I'm really happy with that setup and it was another feel-good job done.

KOYO 36MM RACING RADIATOR: 4RUNNER 96-02-optionsauto.com

Howdy Khalima - same here. I had a shop do the items you list, the cam bearings, water pump, thermostat, radiator, etc. back in September 2018. We climb steep hills fairly often (e.g. Mt Rainier), and the ATF and coolant temps on the ScanGauge have dropped back into normal ranges from reaching parity at a max of about 214 F (i know, yikes). Now coolant maxes at 188 F and ATF hasn’t gone above 170, because I notice and drop OD off. I’ve considered adding a transmission cooler, but don’t really need to at this point. There are considerations around monkeying with the engineering that has gone into system integration like getting the external cooler to play nice with the initial warm-up period for the ATF after a cold start.

So, short story - I had the radiator done and am pleased with the results. Have the shop install a new radiator cap, too. They come separately.

cheers!