Mine was easy to prove because I had lower ball joints that the PO put in and never greased.

I spun in zerc’s and cranked them full of grease and my noise went away and my steering got much easier.


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I have 80k on my ubj's and lbj's. Creaking coming from around the passenger area.

I'll see if I can get a video showing the difference in flex between some 50% worn out OEM LCA bushings and the brand new Whiteline bushings.

I really wish I hadn't lost the video showing just how bad the flex was on those abused 317k bushings. It flexed a bit shy of 2 inches at the tire with an ear-bleeding symphony of squeal and crunch.

I don't have a video of LBJ/UBJ noises, so maybe someone else can link one in here for all of the people who are going to be experiencing this same issue soon.

How have your whitelines been doing? I've always heard/had nothing but good things with them but it seems the LCA bushings are kinda hit and miss. JRoss even said he had to change them out after a mere few weeks cause they got trashed

Everything looks A1 and grease didn't help at all. Starting to think it might be my intermediate shaft or something. It's location on the PS rack is very close to where I hear the noise and the fact that it only occurs with turning the wheel is a big hint - and when researching common problems with a bad intermediate shaft, "dragging and/or clunking noises" comes up frequently.

They feel as solid as the day they were installed, so no issues for me. I would guess that the people who have problems either bought knockoff bushings or didn't install them correctly with the washers that are a PITA to get in. Possibly a lack of (OR mixing of different kinds of) grease could cause the exact same issues.

The Whitelines I have bought have tremendously exceeded the build quality of any other aftermarket bushing I've ever used.

Moog has consistently had the worst aftermarket parks I have ever used. I would give them a 1.5/10 because ONE single ball joint we put on a Jeep has lasted over a year. Every other part I have ever put on has been shot in less than a year of moderate driving. I hope that my experiences have all been random misproductions, but one out of ~20 parts is a decent pool to pull from.

Energy Suspension also makes some pretty good stuff, so I use them for the less critical bushings. The price is fairly lower on the bushing made by them, but they aren't majorly over-engineered like the Whitelines are.

Here are my experiences for the 3rd gen LCA bushings

-Factory Toyota were decently worn at 200k with no lift (completely destroyed with lift and 315k). They work great, but not perfectly solid as they are a thick rubber bushing.
-Energy Suspension didn't work because they don't come with the metal sleeves/washer (you will almost certainly destroy these)
-MOOG brand new had almost exactly the same play as the Toyota ones did at 200k. Completely worn out in a few months with 2-3k miles and 5 easy offroad trails. They are also very easy to damage while you're trying to press them into the LCA because of how poor the bushing material is.
-Whiteline blew me away with how much more stout they were than any other option. The ribbed poly bushing design was a great bonus to keep things lubed. They actually didn't require the press to fully install them into the LCA, so nice and easy there. The bad part to them is that the metal outer washers were hell to install with the LCA into the frame mounts.

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@ I had the same experience with Moog balljoints on the front D60 on my Cummins. Sadly I installed them in both my trucks and spent the next 5 years chasing bad balljoints. Both trucks got Napa’s as a replacement and it was the last time I had balljoint failures. I also started greasing them twice a year.


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The video would no longer work on YouTube, but wondering if I am hearing the same creak, would be interested in everyone’s opinion. I brought to the dealer twice already, and indicated the noise was coming from the front driver side, and they have fixed the a) spare tire mounting and b) rear passenger brake was cleaned. Surprise, the noise coming from the front driver side was not fixed from this.

This issue seems to happen with a bump, and more so when turning with bumps (i.e. turning into a driveway). See here for a video - any help is appreciated! Have a warranty for a 3 more months, and also about to go on a road trip, so I want to make sure this gets resolved.

Creak - YouTube

Also have a similar noise like this and curious what it is lol, been wondering if it's related to my other creaking noise recently

Finally got a chance to crawl under my rig.
It's the lca forward bushing.

Oh boy, I pray that nothing will be frozen/stuck for you. If the cam bolt does get frozen inside of the bushing, you will have to cut it off. I have enough of the cam/castors to give you replacements if you need some, just pm me.

I don't have any experience with removing a stuck cam adjuster.
I have read countless threads on members resorting to a sawzall in removing the adjuster in pieces.
What actually happens when the cams get hung up? Does the bolt wear through the adjuster? Thus making a interference fit out of the cam going through the bushing?
I would think the vibration and push from a pneumatic air hammer would remove the stuck adjuster?

What I've seen with every single frozen one is that the torque bolt will come free, but the adjuster sleeve will rust weld to the inner bushing sleeve. This makes it so that it cannot fit out of the narrow hole that barely fits the adjuster's sleeve.

I haven't seen anything outside of minor wear marks on the outside adjuster sleeve (where it pivots on the frame) for the ~8 vehicles I have pulled them from. Although I have seen some major rust inside of the sleeves, I have never seen the torquing bolt not come free or wear the inside of the sleeve.

It's really hit and miss with the air hammer. I've seen it free quite a few, but it wouldn't have ever knocked my 317k mile factory bushings free from the sleeve. It is also extremely tight to try and knock the front one out.

Well I just dropped the truck off at a dealer for the 3rd time. Hopefully they can identify and resolve. Should I tell them specifically to look at the ball joints since that seems to be a common issue? Figured they would already know this stuff

To close the loop here, they ended up finding the issue. It sounded like the original culprit was the upper control arm / ball joint, which they started to replace under warranty. Then when they started the repairs, for some reason they tacked on the lower control arm / ball joint, and a number of other "bolts and bushings that were rusted out". It sounded like the lower control arm was just easier to replace with the upper, and I guess it was approved under warranty. Didnt push to hard on that, but if I was paying, I would have had a more detailed conversation there. 1400$ all in

Hope this helps someone!