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Old 01-28-2019, 06:01 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powersandlorimer View Post
Would one of these $20 harbor freight 100amp load testers do the trick? @LittleCaesar
I think you forgot the link.
That will work just fine.
As an added bonus you can cook hot dogs on it while testing.

100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester
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Old 01-28-2019, 06:48 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alumarine View Post
I think you forgot the link.
That will work just fine.
As an added bonus you can cook hot dogs on it while testing.

100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester
Yep, that will work fine. Handy tool to have. Hopefully it is just the battery. Fill up the overflow tank with some coolant too.
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Old 01-28-2019, 10:59 PM #18
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It's not worth buying a tester when you can take it in and get it done at the store...I don't even have one of those!!! It can be a bad battery but they either work or they don't...which is why I'd go after the starter...you can have your meter hooked up and try the starter...if the volts hit below 7 or 8 then it's fried...or the starter has to much load like bad contacts...really gotta figure out where the load stops...I wouldn't worry about the coolant...just top it off and keep an eye on it...see that the coolant is up to the top of the rad cap too when cold.
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Old 01-29-2019, 10:42 PM #19
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take the connections off the battery...clean them and the battery posts, re-attach the cables and tighten them down good.

Classic symptoms of loose/dirty battery cables.
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Old 02-03-2019, 02:04 PM #20
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@onemanarmy @LittleCaesar @WWRD99 I checked the connection posts and collars and they’re clean with no corrosion. I picked up the load tester and got 200 cold cranking amps. From what I’m reading that’s not enough to start the vehicle. Will that change if I take it to be recharged or is it toast and I need a new one? I also tried to start the car again after the test. No clicking, no turnover, no nothing.

If toast, what do you guys recommend as replacement? Thanks so much with help with all
this.
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Old 02-03-2019, 05:58 PM #21
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The battery has to be fully charged in order to test it.
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Old 02-14-2019, 06:21 PM #22
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Have you replaced the battery yet?? I don't get online much, I use the battery from Toyota, I got mine on sale a few months ago for 85 I think...That's all I buy.
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Bought this 99 in 01 and haven't let it go since! Valve dropped at 195k so I rebuilt it with reman heads, new rings and one new piston...tough to find the correct numbered one but I did...still had the original hatch...I soaped it and did a light hatch to help the new rings seat...that was in 2015...since then I did a basic lift and put some VTX 18x9 inch wheels with 0 offset...Ive grounded the rear locker, ran a diff extension into the gas cap, did the hood piston mod...GM Alternator...13WL brakes..30 year ASE Master Tech with more tools than sense, so I quit everything and work at home now.
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Old 02-15-2019, 12:09 PM #23
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I am also having a no start issue with my 97, it will crank, and if I use starter fluid it will start and die. I swapped the efi and fuel pump relay with the tail light relay (same part number) with no luck. It drove fine yesterday and when I went out to start it this morning it would just crank. No codes or pending codes

Really sorry for the thread highjack but I don’t have enough posts to start my own and I’m really in need of some assistance
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Old 02-15-2019, 04:27 PM #24
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I am also having a no start issue with my 97, it will crank, and if I use starter fluid it will start and die. I swapped the efi and fuel pump relay with the tail light relay (same part number) with no luck. It drove fine yesterday and when I went out to start it this morning it would just crank. No codes or pending codes

Really sorry for the thread highjack but I don’t have enough posts to start my own and I’m really in need of some assistance
I'd rule out fuel pump, next:

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi...fuepum/ovi.pdf

From 2002, but should be the same.
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Old 02-15-2019, 05:25 PM #25
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Hi OP,

Hopefully you have solved your problem by now. I too had that "whirring" noise. I few weeks after I initially heard the noise my car would not start. The problem turned out to be the starter. I replaced the started and haven't had any issues turning my car on since.
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Old 02-15-2019, 06:50 PM #26
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Quote:
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I'd rule out fuel pump, next:

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi...fuepum/ovi.pdf

From 2002, but should be the same.
Thank you that was very helpful, I tested the resistance and could not get a reading, I also tried to put 12v to the pump and had no results so is it safe to assume the pump is bad?

Any idea as to what would cause it to fail all of a sudden? The only thing I can think of is the last time I drove it I floored it on a straightaway which I usually would never do, could that have pushed a questionable pump over the edge? The truck has 193k miles on it at the moment
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Old 02-16-2019, 12:48 AM #27
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Thank you that was very helpful, I tested the resistance and could not get a reading, I also tried to put 12v to the pump and had no results so is it safe to assume the pump is bad?

Any idea as to what would cause it to fail all of a sudden? The only thing I can think of is the last time I drove it I floored it on a straightaway which I usually would never do, could that have pushed a questionable pump over the edge? The truck has 193k miles on it at the moment
Don't take it personally, they just die. And it sure sounds like yours did.
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Old 02-20-2019, 10:50 AM #28
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Just wanted to update everyone I got the new fuel pump in this morning and it solved my problem, thanks for the help
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Old 04-08-2019, 07:56 PM #29
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I recently replaced starter finding longggg crank time present last few days.
My first thought was fuel pump going bad , to my surprise Anti Theft System was causing issue.
Today , Thanks to dead Fob battery I stopped using & crank time was cut in half.

Experts , feel free to chime in how ATS would cause such issue.
Maybe fuel pump relay tied into it?
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