Hi,

About 2 weeks ago it was 5° here, -10° with windchill. I had to move my truck, I turned the key once and nothing, the power worked but the engine didn't turn over. I turned the key again and I pumped the gas simultaneously and it started. I drove it for about 5 minutes. During this drive the engine was whirring almost like when you're low on power steering fluid... I didn't think too much of it, I just attributed it to extreme cold, especially since everything seemed to be fine prior to this.

I didn't move the car for 2 weeks after this. I went to move it yesterday and I turned the key and got no turn over, no clicking either, but the power worked.

Today it was much warmer 44°, I went back to the car with a multimeter and portable power pack. The battery metered at 12.29, I charged it for 10 min with the power pack and tried to start — nothing, same result. Then I took the pack off and kind of shoved the battery a bit to make sure it was seated properly, I also metered the battery again and it read 12.59 -- power pack was working. I then tried again, this time it actually made a small effort to turn over, but didn't quite start. Then I tried another turn of the key and back to nothing again.

I called a friend for a jump, I charged off their suv for 5 min, then tried to start up and nothing again.

I then tried 30min on the power pack and same result. I also checked my coolant reservoir and it was basically empty...not sure if this could effect the start up...

That's where I'm at. Looking for ideas. Thanks so much.

It sounds as if you may have a fuel issue. Can you hear the pump turn on?

Possibly your starter. toward its end life it will work somethings and no others. you can smack it with a hammer a few times and try. sometimes that will make it work again but it would need to be replaced soon if thats your issue.

How do I check that? Is that just as simple as listening to the area where fuel is pumped when I turn the key? @LittleCaesar

lots of threads on this forum deal with similar issue. Here is one to get you started
99 won't start, no click

Checking the fuel pump...have someone turn the key to run while you have your ear in the filler cap...you get about 10 seconds of whine noise...kinda works...best way is taking off a fuel line...which I wouldn't recommend since you ask how to check it.
From what you're describing it sounds like the starter is not engaging and turning the engine to start it...sometimes if you leave the key in start you can hear a electrical whine noise...high pitch...my hearing is shot but that's one frequency I can hear still...hitting the starter while doing the key start will usually get it to go...then you know you need new contacts inside...cost like 8$...easy rebuild...to hit the starter you'll need a long extension or pipe to fit through the wheel well..pass side...tap the top part of the starter...look out for the big wire as it's full batt...its nice to have another person hit the key while you hit the starter but not necessarily needed...oh n it doesn't take much to get it to go so no splitting wood chops needed.

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That is correct. Put your ear to the tank and have someone turn the key.

But if the starter is original, look there as well.

@WWRD99 I’ll give the tap on the starter a shot! Curious, do think the lack of coolant could be causing this?

Sounds like your alternator has gone bad.

My wife's Rav4's alternator died. Had a really bad whine when running for about a day, then stopped powering the car altogether, which promptly drained the battery.

Cold weather and no start is a symptom of bad contacts. The low coolant is what bothers me. Try pulling all 6 plugs and inspect for a sign of coolant inside the cylinder. If there is no coolant, replace the starter contacts. Timmy the tool man has a great video about how to replace the starter contacts on a 4runner. Buy contacts from the dealer and it is about $15.

Take battery out and get it tested.
Rule that out first.

@alumarine the multimeter reads 12.59, you think it could still be bad?

Those numbers are good but if you load test it and it passes you can move on to something else.

You need to be able to check the cold cranking amps to see if it has enough derriere to kick over the starter.

Yesterday I had a neighbor who had a no crank symptom. The battery was at 12.6 volts but the cold cranking power was only at 150 out of a possible 650 amps. Only a new battery solved her dilemma.

Would one of these $20 harbor freight 100amp load testers do the trick? @LittleCaesar