I'd say you can tell by looking. If you have cracks like that, there's most likely gross play in the bushing. I've replaced lower control arm bushings many times, and when the bushing is cracked like that, there is significant play.
But, is the play causing issues? I just noticed I have cracked bushings but don't have any vibration or alignment issues. If it's not causing you issues right now, go ahead and drive it as is until you feel like tackling this repair. When you do get ready to do it,
@infamousRNR
and I have a couple videos that might assist you. I recommend you use Whiteline Poly bushings as a replacement.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I'd say you can tell by looking. If you have cracks like that, there's most likely gross play in the bushing. I've replaced lower control arm bushings many times, and when the bushing is cracked like that, there is significant play.
But, is the play causing issues? I just noticed I have cracked bushings but don't have any vibration or alignment issues. If it's not causing you issues right now, go ahead and drive it as is until you feel like tackling this repair. When you do get ready to do it,
@infamousRNR
and I have a couple videos that might assist you.
I actually watched your video yesterday. Have you installed Energy Suspension bushings? your video has you using Whiteline.
Its tough to say what the exact problem is. But I would feel much better if I replaced the front and rear control arm bushings. And in time I will be going to SPC uppers and a new steering rack! Then I will have all new bushings in every corner and hopefully a tighter feeling vehicle.
I don't know why there are plastic bushings. A bushing supposed to absorb an impact and mitigate its effect going into the frame and body. If plastic bushings are good as a bush, many automakers will go into plastic as those are nearly free these days compared to good rubber.
Many, many guys are running poly bushings for their control arms with no issues, including myself. OEM is always a safe way to go but you will spend more. OP, I heavily suggest you steer clear of the Energy Suspension bushings because they are more of a pain in the ass to deal with. Whiteline is the way to go if you're going to use poly.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I don't know why there are plastic bushings. A bushing supposed to absorb an impact and mitigate its effect going into the frame and body. If plastic bushings are good as a bush, many automakers will go into plastic as those are nearly free these days compared to good rubber.
Get OEM bushings.
Just like rubber, there's different densities and stiffnesses to poly bushings. It's not like were installing a completely rigid piece of plastic into the control arms. There is give to these poly bushings. I think this is a common misconception when considering using poly over rubber.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
from what I have seen, if you have enough heat on the front control arm around the bushing, you can "melt" the rubberized connection to the outer sleeve and push the rubber out. followed by some clean up of course. But it doesn't sound too hard.
That is how I did mine. Weed burner in my outdoor firepit. PITA, but not too hard.
I'd say you can tell by looking. If you have cracks like that, there's most likely gross play in the bushing. I've replaced lower control arm bushings many times, and when the bushing is cracked like that, there is significant play.
But, is the play causing issues? I just noticed I have cracked bushings but don't have any vibration or alignment issues. If it's not causing you issues right now, go ahead and drive it as is until you feel like tackling this repair. When you do get ready to do it,
@infamousRNR
and I have a couple videos that might assist you. I recommend you use Whiteline Poly bushings as a replacement.
Definitely have to agree with Tim here. The rubber is somehow adhered to the metal sleeve.
I'm inclined to believe that for the most part unless the bushing is severely degraded there isn't any concern.
I recently replaced the UCA bushings with new OEM Toyota bushings through the use of a vice and bottlejack method. I'd strongly suggest watching Tim's videos on replacing the control arm bushings.
In general I'd recommend whiteline over Toyota bushings, Toyota simply wants a lot of money for their bushings. I'd wager at this point you wouldn't be able to tell any difference if someone swap your bushings out overnight without your knowledge.
vids floating around using drill motor and bit thttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/o remove rubber, looks way simpler than heat or fire.
It is. You can't easily do it with our bushing set-up though. We have a metal sleeve and collar that won't allow you to do it without sawzalling one of the collars off. I was all set to do mine with a 1/2" drill bit until I actually removed them.
I could have used my sawzall but my map gas and bottle jack where already out. I soaked them for 5 minutes in Liquid Wrench and set up the jack. The first one popped in 3 minutes because, well, because it was the first one I'd ever done. The other 3 where out in less then 3 minutes. It's easy and painless.
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Quote:
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. --Albert Einstein
My take on the 'Poly vs. OE rubber' debate is this- On a rubber bushing, the center sleeve is vulcanized to the rubber (meaning its bonded together), so when the suspension is cycling up and down, the rubber is being twisted back and forth because the center sleeve is anchored in place when the mounting bolt pinches the control arm tight.
A poly bushing just has the sleeve spinning inside of the bore of the bushing because the sleeve isn't physically bonded to the urethane. There's no way that the poly bushing can have the life span of the comparable rubber bushing. The metal sleeve is literally wearing away at the urethane every time it cycles.
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'99 Limited, 225K miles, 3.4/automatic, multi-mode, e-locker, broken sunroof, no DRL's. 265-75-16 Hankook Dynapro ATM. New Moog rear springs, KYB Monomax F&R.
It is. You can't easily do it with our bushing set-up though..
Not really, when melting rubber came up I was like whoa up redirect.
The way You me Timmy and most eveybody else does it the best way.
Little heat, PB blaster, jig I made to keep from spreading arm and jack best way.
Good seeing your truck back in beast mode in last pics, wish I had that close.
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