01-28-2019, 05:56 PM
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#1
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Are these front lower control arm bushings bad?
I had just finished installing new O2 sensors and had a look around under my engine, just to see if there were any leaks or oddities that I could remedy. I say these bushings with cracks...
Do these need replacing??
Passenger side
drivers side
I'm going to go have a look at my rear bushings now...
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01-28-2019, 07:23 PM
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#2
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Yeah, those are done
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'99 4Runner SR5: 5VZ, 2wd, AT, 400k+ club
'94 Pickup: 2wd, 22RE, 5spd, (3RZ swap in progress)
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01-28-2019, 07:52 PM
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#3
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yep they done, have a sawz-al with 6" blades nearby bet you need it with rust I see.
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01-28-2019, 08:23 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisted Sid
Yeah, those are done
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
yep they done, have a sawz-al with 6" blades nearby bet you need it with rust I see.
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dam.
any recomendations for replacements? or is this an OEM only sort of thing...?
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01-28-2019, 08:40 PM
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#5
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Oh boy can o worms asking that?
Been happy with OEM, I hear think it's whiteline white something are popular.
Ban me mentioning Moog have held up good on other rides, stay away from other aftermarket chit.
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01-28-2019, 08:54 PM
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#6
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Can you tell just by looking? I was told you cannot and that a simple visual is not how to tell if lower LCA bushings need replacing.
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01-28-2019, 09:00 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianSD_42
Can you tell just by looking? I was told you cannot and that a simple visual is not how to tell if lower LCA bushings need replacing.
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thats what I thought too, I pry'd around with a flathead and there wasnt alot of movement, but the weight of the car might mitigate any movement.
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01-28-2019, 09:03 PM
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#8
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@ BrianSD_42
, Will agree with that, But the cracks do mean something wouldn't you say.
Not a oh shit moment, get ready.
Edit: would you say correct way is to seperate LBJ swing arm up and down see what ya got.
Last edited by 96RedRunner; 01-28-2019 at 09:22 PM.
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01-28-2019, 09:07 PM
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#9
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Looks like mud not rust.
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01-28-2019, 09:17 PM
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#10
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Look past the mud, looks like rust in cam bolt threads other places also.
Doesn't take much to freeze sleeve to bolt mine had no rust or mud a sawzall
was needed just warning Lamer of what could be.
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01-28-2019, 09:19 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianSD_42
Can you tell just by looking? I was told you cannot and that a simple visual is not how to tell if lower LCA bushings need replacing.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamer
thats what I thought too, I pry'd around with a flathead and there wasnt alot of movement, but the weight of the car might mitigate any movement.
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You can guess by looking. You can tell by doing a simple test.
Get under the car with both wheels on the ground. Start the truck and have someone turn lock to lock. Look at all 4 bushings. If there's more then 1/8" of play they're bad. I just did mine two weeks ago. Visually they looked fine but both passenger and driver front had almost 3/8" play.
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01-28-2019, 09:21 PM
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#12
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If they’ve never been replace then they are probably due along with most other rubber bushings in these vehicles. I had a shop replace mine last year and they used MOOG, they tore within the year so I replaced those with Whiteline.
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01-29-2019, 12:29 AM
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#13
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
@ BrianSD_42
, Will agree with that, But the cracks do mean something wouldn't you say.
Not a oh shit moment, get ready.
Edit: would you say correct way is to seperate LBJ swing arm up and down see what ya got.
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thats what I thinking of doing to test them out. but I had a look at my rear control arms and those bushings look very worn. So now I may just do the fronts and rears all at once. Whiteline or Energy Suspension for the fronts, and Energy Suspension for the rears.
Quote:
Originally Posted by S1996R
Looks like mud not rust.
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I concur, I weny under and brushed most of that crap away, doesnt look too bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
Look past the mud, looks like rust in cam bolt threads other places also.
Doesn't take much to freeze sleeve to bolt mine had no rust or mud a sawzall
was needed just warning Lamer of what could be.
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I went under again and was able to brush that off. but I will have the means necessary to remove them should I need it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by theesotericone
You can guess by looking. You can tell by doing a simple test.
Get under the car with both wheels on the ground. Start the truck and have someone turn lock to lock. Look at all 4 bushings. If there's more then 1/8" of play they're bad. I just did mine two weeks ago. Visually they looked fine but both passenger and driver front had almost 3/8" play.
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I might do this before taking them off just so I can compaRe to the new ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BikeDestroyer
If they’ve never been replace then they are probably due along with most other rubber bushings in these vehicles. I had a shop replace mine last year and they used MOOG, they tore within the year so I replaced those with Whiteline.
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They are the original bushings with 260k miles. probably due for a change.
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01-29-2019, 09:46 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamer
thats what I thinking of doing to test them out. but I had a look at my rear control arms and those bushings look very worn. So now I may just do the fronts and rears all at once. Whiteline or Energy Suspension for the fronts, and Energy Suspension for the rears
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Whiteline for the front will be easier since you don’t have to re-use the inner sleeve like you do on the Energy Suspension ones. Rears, I’m not sure, I just put SPC arms in because they are stronger and I didn’t have to deal with replacing bushings.
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01-29-2019, 10:49 AM
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#15
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikeDestroyer
Whiteline for the front will be easier since you don’t have to re-use the inner sleeve like you do on the Energy Suspension ones. Rears, I’m not sure, I just put SPC arms in because they are stronger and I didn’t have to deal with replacing bushings.
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from what I have seen, if you have enough heat on the front control arm around the bushing, you can "melt" the rubberized connection to the outer sleeve and push the rubber out. followed by some clean up of course. But it doesn't sound too hard.
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