01-29-2019, 07:06 PM
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#16
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Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: OBX, NC and Obamaville
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Never experienced such Mike but once I had a Ranger that was puking oil through the intake manifold. If I pulled the dipstick I heard the engine struggling to breathe. Turned out that the PCV valve, despite passing the shake test, would stick shut under pressure. A new one resolved such along with some manifold cleaning.
Got a block heater or blanket lying around? Good luck.
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01-29-2019, 07:08 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Posts: 371
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alumarine
-30 or more is not a problem for most vehicles.
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Holy freaking crap... God speed, brother. You’re a braver man than I (he says from the relative warmth that is NM)
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02 Thundercloud Sport, 155k.
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01-29-2019, 07:13 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Bend, WI
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Real Name: Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
Never experienced such Mike but once I had a Ranger that was puking oil through the intake manifold. If I pulled the dipstick I heard the engine struggling to breathe. Turned out that the PCV valve, despite passing the shake test, would stick shut under pressure. A new one resolved such along with some manifold cleaning.
Got a block heater or blanket lying around? Good luck.
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No block heater. I can always take my Camry to work which is in my garage. The 4R lives outside where it belongs.
Shit, it may not even start tomorrow morning if its actually -30 degrees out. I started it last saturday when it was -18 and it fired right up!
Hopefully this was a fluke or the PCV was actually bad. The old one I had laying around definitely looks older but it appears to be working the way it should.
I ordered a new OEM PCV and grommet via Amazon but it won't be here until next Monday.
Fingers crossed!
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
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01-29-2019, 07:15 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 111
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I find that my coolant tempts do not reach the standard 190 degrees for a good 20-25 minutes in near zero temperatures. I also find my transmission tempts only reach 120 after driving around at least 20 minutes in city traffic. If I hit the highway they stay low about 115. I do have a trans cooler though.
All monitored via torque app
I’d let your car warm up even longer than 10 minutes.
I do have a remote start which helps with warming up.
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01-29-2019, 07:18 PM
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#20
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official vendor
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Eugene, OR
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official vendor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper
It supposed to be -30 tomorrow morning, should I take it to work (actually drive it around) or wait until I'm 100% confident the issue is resolved.
I really need it for the ice fishing trip this weekend.
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Take the day off!
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01-29-2019, 07:26 PM
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#21
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Good luck, tomorrow and with the fishing trip. To me it sounds like the pressure couldn’t be relieved.
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01-29-2019, 07:33 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Bend, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt
Take the day off!
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That would be the logical thing to do. Unfortunately, my boss/company refuses to ever close for anything. Also because I'm going to be gone Friday/Monday, I really need to go in tomorrow.
My wife's work is closed and so is just about every business/entity known to man around here other than essential services (police/fire/hospitals etc except for my company...lol).
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
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01-29-2019, 09:35 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper
That would be the logical thing to do. Unfortunately, my boss/company refuses to ever close for anything. Also because I'm going to be gone Friday/Monday, I really need to go in tomorrow.
My wife's work is closed and so is just about every business/entity known to man around here other than essential services (police/fire/hospitals etc except for my company...lol).
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Everything’s closed here too except for, of course, my work which blows. You should get a block heater, made a big difference this morning. I ordered another one for my 99 today and put one in my dads suburban this past weekend.
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2001 Sport Edition 4WD, IJM, Auto, DD
1999 SR5 4WD, Millennium Silver Metallic, 5 speed, E-locker, Trail Rig
1998 SR5 4WD Custom bodywork from hitting a median. Beater truck.
1999 Limited 4WD No longer a vehicle. Now it's in parts and stored away.
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01-29-2019, 09:56 PM
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#24
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Got a link to the block heater you installed?
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
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01-29-2019, 10:04 PM
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#25
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Join Date: May 2014
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With the engine running take the oil cap off and cover it with a rubber glove and see if it blows up like a balloon that the best test I know of to determine if u have pressure build up in the crankcase.
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01-29-2019, 10:17 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRidgeRunner1
With the engine running take the oil cap off and cover it with a rubber glove and see if it blows up like a balloon that the best test I know of to determine if u have pressure build up in the crankcase.
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Excellent idea!
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
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01-29-2019, 10:55 PM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper
Got a link to the block heater you installed?
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Yup! PYR02134 Toyota Block Heater V6 5VZ 3.4L - Trdparts4u - Toyota of Dallas
I put this in my 01 back in November it’s pretty straightforward and easy. I did my research the only block heater that fits is this one made in Canada. The Kat’z heater will not fit.
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2001 Sport Edition 4WD, IJM, Auto, DD
1999 SR5 4WD, Millennium Silver Metallic, 5 speed, E-locker, Trail Rig
1998 SR5 4WD Custom bodywork from hitting a median. Beater truck.
1999 Limited 4WD No longer a vehicle. Now it's in parts and stored away.
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01-30-2019, 07:40 AM
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#28
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
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I never had that happen but I did have a weird oil spray thing at start up during an extreme sub zero temp. I started it up and I got a quick forward spray that shot out onto pavement just past the front of the bumper. My skid was not installed at the time. I have no idea where it came from. Never happened again. Just as heat expands metal n stuff, extreme cold shrinks stuff and makes things act weird and not work properly. Maybe that's what allowed my oil to briefly escape, that's my only reasoning. I don't think anything was loose like my oil filter.
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*1999 3.4L, 4wd/5spd, swapped motor and trans, heavy use DD, seasonal rust proofing using WD-40 only
*2000 3.4L, 4wd/5spd, parts rig, picking the carcass
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01-30-2019, 12:06 PM
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#29
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Just a thought, would it be easy to have like 3-4 100+ W light bulbs inside the engine bay to keep it warm?
You can check the blow-by by removing the dipstick and check rushing air. It should be the PCV.
IS the oil you are using is like 0-10W?
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01-30-2019, 12:22 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
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I use Valvoline max life high mileage 5w/30.
I decided to not take it to work today but I plan on messing with it when I get home to see if the new/used PCV fixed it for sure.
I'll try the glove test also to see if there is pressure in the crank case.
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
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