02-26-2019, 04:49 PM
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#46
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Whoa, slow down with the blown head gasket.
Oil on the dipstick and cap is another cold weather symptom. Drive a lot of short trips? It never gets warm enough to evaporate all that moisture away. Again, very common especially with short trip drivers. That is why the owners manual calls any commuting under like 10 miles to be "severe service".
On a related note, I bet that is what is freezing up your PCV!
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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02-26-2019, 05:01 PM
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#47
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Bend, WI
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Real Name: Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
Whoa, slow down with the blown head gasket.
Oil on the dipstick and cap is another cold weather symptom. Drive a lot of short trips? It never gets warm enough to evaporate all that moisture away. Again, very common especially with short trip drivers. That is why the owners manual calls any commuting under like 10 miles to be "severe service".
On a related note, I bet that is what is freezing up your PCV!
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Essentially all I do is short trips with it except for the occasional trips up north to hunt/fish every couple months (2 hour drive).
My work is only about 8 miles away and that is where I drive it to mostly. I do let it warm up for about 5 minutes before I leave in the morning. I also drive it around town to run to the store but again, that is even shorter trips than going to work.
God I hope you are right. I am not having any other signs of a blown head gasket, but this has got me all worked up now. I seriously have absolutely terrible luck.
If this moisture in the oil is causing the PCV to freeze up, is there anything else I can do to fix it other than driving it on much longer trips?
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
Last edited by thegipper; 02-26-2019 at 05:03 PM.
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02-26-2019, 05:09 PM
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#48
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Join Date: Mar 2016
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
What brand of Spark plug seals do you have in there and how old are they?
I put a certain brand of blue ones in my corolla last winter and shortly pulled them out to put in OEM. The blue ones leaked, not sure if cold was the factor, just pitched them but you can be sure we had cold here.
Do you know about the cold weather rad leak that these toyota plastic cap radiators have? In very cold, say -30 to -40 the rad seals will leak upon starting the car as soon as a little pressure biuids in the system. As soon as the rad warms up a bit the leaks stop. Very common. Maybe you have something similar with the tube seals, a cold weather start up leak until they become pliable again.
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I'll have to check my records but I believe all of the VC seals are OEM. The engine is from another member on here and I believe he had them done at a Yota dealership about 6 years ago. There is no oil leaking anywhere else involving the VC's, not even a drop. I don't think its the seals, there is some kind of pressure building up in the crank case.
Either its from a blown head gasket or it's from moisture freezing up like you said. Hopefully its just the latter.
I got family coming in from out of town tomorrow so I won't be able to doing any investigating until the following weekend.
Also, maybe I need to do some more research on these catch cans if that would help my situation.
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
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02-26-2019, 05:09 PM
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#49
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Massachusetts
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so what is the coolant antifreeze temp at ?
I use 65% ANTIFREEZE and 35% distilled water . so when cold below temps hit too much antifreeze like 90-100% will cause the antifreeze to get frozen .. and if its at zero F then than can also cause a gasket to leak into the oil .
moisture under the oil fill cap is normal in winter temps. since you have sludge that says to me conventional oil used .. if the color of the sludge is the color of the antifreeze you used sure can be a head gasket .
extreme temps over time and doing many short runs the head gasket will wear out then leak .
do the pressure test on radiator and see if air comes out the oil fill tube ..block off the PCV hole and crankcase air vent ..
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02-26-2019, 05:12 PM
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#50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper
If this moisture in the oil is causing the PCV to freeze up, is there anything else I can do to fix it other than driving it on much longer trips?
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I have a friend who drives a brand new car. She drives 3 miles down the hill to work and then 3 miles up the hill back home. Her oil cap looks like whipped cream. The dealer just does an oil change and tells her to drive it more. It just happens. Our winter temps sit between -10c and -40c most of the time.
You need to winter proof your truck. A block heater to pre-warm the engine helps get it warm fast.
A winter front to block some of the cold air blowing on the rad will allow it to reach operating temps faster on short trips. People use cardboard, foam rubber, old towels, canvas and of course you can just buy one. One note is that you have to remove it in the spring so you don't overheat.
And lastly you need to drive some distance more often. I can warm my 4runner up for 10 minutes, drive 12 miles to work and it is just up to operating temp when I get there. That's why I drive the corolla in the winter.
__________________
-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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02-26-2019, 05:28 PM
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#51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catrains
so what is the coolant antifreeze temp at ?
I use 65% ANTIFREEZE and 35% distilled water . so when cold below temps hit too much antifreeze like 90-100% will cause the antifreeze to get frozen .. and if its at zero F then than can also cause a gasket to leak into the oil .
moisture under the oil fill cap is normal in winter temps. since you have sludge that says to me conventional oil used .. if the color of the sludge is the color of the antifreeze you used sure can be a head gasket .
extreme temps over time and doing many short runs the head gasket will wear out then leak .
do the pressure test on radiator and see if air comes out the oil fill tube ..block off the PCV hole and crankcase air vent ..
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My coolant temps are about 130 after warming up in my driveway for 5ish minutes depending on how cold it is outside. My truck warms up very quick once I leave and usually hovers around 190 like it should (monitored via ultragauge). I would say it is at operating temperature for the last 3-5 minutes in that 13ish minute drive to work.
Sludge was tan in color and there wasn't a "ton" of it, but more than I've seen before. I'm thinking I'll do an oil change if I can this weekend, it was probably last done in late summer of 2018 and maybe has 1500 miles on it .
I think I'll send an oil sample to blackstone labs just to be sure.
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
Last edited by thegipper; 02-26-2019 at 05:36 PM.
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02-26-2019, 05:33 PM
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#52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
I have a friend who drives a brand new car. She drives 3 miles down the hill to work and then 3 miles up the hill back home. Her oil cap looks like whipped cream. The dealer just does an oil change and tells her to drive it more. It just happens. Our winter temps sit between -10c and -40c most of the time.
You need to winter proof your truck. A block heater to pre-warm the engine helps get it warm fast.
A winter front to block some of the cold air blowing on the rad will allow it to reach operating temps faster on short trips. People use cardboard, foam rubber, old towels, canvas and of course you can just buy one. One note is that you have to remove it in the spring so you don't overheat.
And lastly you need to drive some distance more often. I can warm my 4runner up for 10 minutes, drive 12 miles to work and it is just up to operating temp when I get there. That's why I drive the corolla in the winter.
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Yeah my 4R only see's freeway driving maybe once a month. It's all back country roads to work (45-55 mph) with some minor "city" driving in that 8 mile trip.
God I hope you guys are right. Never had this happen before with any of my vehicles. My Camry does a lot of short trips to work also but it does get driven about 30 miles twice a week when I have to pick up my kids from the in laws.
__________________
1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
Last edited by thegipper; 02-26-2019 at 05:36 PM.
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02-26-2019, 11:42 PM
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#53
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Here's my pretty winter front. With the weather we have been having the last couple of weeks, it really helps. Makes a big difference in cabin heat and by extension engine temps. Been -30 F some mornings. No 4runner pic. She's hibernating.
Just a thought. I rarely start up in the cold weather without plugging in. My engine (and PCV) is above freezing before I turn the key. Do you have a block heater installed?
__________________
-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
Last edited by Kanoe; 02-26-2019 at 11:48 PM.
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02-27-2019, 10:54 AM
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#54
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I don't have a block heater but I'll definitely consider adding one this spring.
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
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03-08-2019, 09:47 AM
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#55
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Update:
So last weekend I was able to change the oil. It looked like oil, nothing more nothing less. I didn't see anything alarming. I drove it for a good 15 minutes before changing the oil.
I drove it to work on Monday and when I got home, I checked under my oil fill cap and sure enough, there was white milky stuff under the cap, maybe .5mm thick.
So my assumption that changing the oil would remove this moisture was wrong. I guess that makes sense since the moisture/water will not be in the oil itself but in the crankcase.
Today, I decided to take my 4R to work. It's 3 degrees this morning and about 5 minutes into my drive, I smell burning oil....again. I get to work and sure enough, oil puked out of the spark plug tube seals again.
My plan was to take it for a long 1+ hour drive today on the freeway after work so I can finally try to burn off this excess moisture. I still plan on doing that, it's just going to be a little stinky for awhile.
Other thoughts:
I've driven this truck in Wisconsin here for 3 winters now, this is the first time it's ever done this. It has always been used on "short trips" with the occasional long trips up north to hunt/fish.
I'm thinking I should try a catch can next. I also plan on taking it on an extended drive (1 hour plus) at least once every couple weeks.
Does anyone have a link to a catch can on Amazon they would recommend?
Still no signs of a bad head gasket. It runs great, no CEL, no misfires, no known coolant loss, no excessive white smoke on cold start up.
What has me puzzled is why is this all of sudden happening now? Has the weather this winter been particularly "moist" or something? It has been an insane winter this year with massive swings in temperature. We had essentially zero snow all January then all of a sudden we had the polar vortex followed by one snow storm after another. Like I said, this truck has been driven the same way every winter yet now all of a sudden this moisture in the crankcase is becoming an issue.
The search continues....
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
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03-08-2019, 09:54 AM
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#56
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I almost want to add the block heater for you.....can't wait...
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
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03-08-2019, 09:56 AM
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#57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467
I almost want to add the block heater for you.....can't wait...
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That's on the list too but that doesn't explain why it's been fine for the last several years and all of a sudden now, it's having these moisture issues.
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
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03-08-2019, 11:24 AM
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#58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper
Update:
So last weekend I was able to change the oil. It looked like oil, nothing more nothing less. I didn't see anything alarming. I drove it for a good 15 minutes before changing the oil.
I drove it to work on Monday and when I got home, I checked under my oil fill cap and sure enough, there was white milky stuff under the cap, maybe .5mm thick.
So my assumption that changing the oil would remove this moisture was wrong. I guess that makes sense since the moisture/water will not be in the oil itself but in the crankcase.
Today, I decided to take my 4R to work. It's 3 degrees this morning and about 5 minutes into my drive, I smell burning oil....again. I get to work and sure enough, oil puked out of the spark plug tube seals again.
My plan was to take it for a long 1+ hour drive today on the freeway after work so I can finally try to burn off this excess moisture. I still plan on doing that, it's just going to be a little stinky for awhile.
Other thoughts:
I've driven this truck in Wisconsin here for 3 winters now, this is the first time it's ever done this. It has always been used on "short trips" with the occasional long trips up north to hunt/fish.
I'm thinking I should try a catch can next. I also plan on taking it on an extended drive (1 hour plus) at least once every couple weeks.
Does anyone have a link to a catch can on Amazon they would recommend?
Still no signs of a bad head gasket. It runs great, no CEL, no misfires, no known coolant loss, no excessive white smoke on cold start up.
What has me puzzled is why is this all of sudden happening now? Has the weather this winter been particularly "moist" or something? It has been an insane winter this year with massive swings in temperature. We had essentially zero snow all January then all of a sudden we had the polar vortex followed by one snow storm after another. Like I said, this truck has been driven the same way every winter yet now all of a sudden this moisture in the crankcase is becoming an issue.
The search continues....
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072K...mob_b_pd_title
Just got that a few weeks ago. Nicely made and comes with two different size fittings. The hose is junk though so plan on going to your parts store for vacuum hose.
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