Hi guys, would appreciate any pointers please on what I should do next.

In summary:

- Went to start my 4R couple days ago and the engine was cranking but not starting. I've had battery issues for a while as I don't drive it much and not sure when the the battery was replaced, so assumed this was the issue.

- Hooked up jump leads and it cranked much faster, but no start. I checked the codes and had P0325 (knock sensor code I've had for a while), then 3 new ones P0335, P0340, P0420. Again my guess was low current from the battery was causing stuff to play up.

- I cleared the codes then hit it with a quick spritz of starting fluid and she fired right up. The next day I put a new battery in too and all my codes (apart form knock sensor) were cleared and she was running like a champ. Put some miles on her (highway and local) including stopping/starting the engine multiple times and no issues at all.

Today, I went to move the truck (parked again on my drive, slight incline) and the same issue, cranking but no start. This time only the P0340 code (camshaft position sensor) was showing. I tried the starting fluid trick and no dice. Also moved her to a flat surface (there's just under a quarter tank of fuel) and still no good.

I've ordered a replacement crank position sensor which should be here tomorrow. I'm a little hesitant jumping into replacing it however as I'm not mechanically amazing. The truck is supercharged and the s/c tensioner pulley is blocking the cam cover from being removed easily. I've included a pic from a member here who posted the same issue about difficulty removing the cam cover but didn't get a response.




Do you guys have any pointers or should I bite the bullet and get her towed to a mechanic? Thank you!!

Thing I find with cam position sensors going bad is that the car will start, it just might take a few tries until it lines up. I’m suspecting I have this issue as well, I haven’t gotten a code but often I have to turn the key back off and try again as the first round of cranking won’t fire it up, or almost catch stumble and die. Second or third try it fires right up.

Very interesting, and i may have the same problem. Btw - my cam position code only appears before the engine is started (when it won't start). When its running I don't get the code.

As an update on my previous issue, after leaving the truck on a flat surface overnight, it started up the next day. I then put a full tank of gas in her and kept her in the garage, and she's starting up first time again. Maybe it was bad gas? the recent weather combined with low fuel on an incline were all factors? Not sure but I'll keep an eye on it and update progress...

Since I've parked in the garage (no gradient) and fuelled her up, I've had no issues starting - I just tried again right now. Maybe my truck doesn't like the cold?

Weird that it would throw a code though. Normally heat will causing wiring to go bad, not cold, so was going to suggest wiring.

By the way, the dynamic tensioner is very simple to remove. It's one 17mm bolt and it's off, then I think a H10 allen head socket to get the bracket out. To take the belt off, take out the oil dipstick and tube, fit a 3/8" drive breaker bar into the square slot (no socket, just the 3/8" drive") and rotate it counter clockwise and the belt will slip right off. I can't even count how many times I've had to do it over the years, takes all of 5 minutes to do with the right tools. Then you can unbolt and pull back the cover a bit to see if your camshaft sensor (on the camshaft gear, passenger's side of engine) has oil or other residue on it making it not read correctly. Note that the connector for the sensor is on the outside of the timing belt cover.