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Old 10-26-2019, 03:22 PM #1
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IAC question

Hi to all,

I recently did my valve cover gaskets and all of the intake gaskets.

Now I have the dreaded high idle. I made sure the TB and IAC are clean. All of the vacuum hoses have been tested for leaks. I also disconnected the battery to reset the ECU. When cold, it starts as normal. After it is warm, it will come to rest at about 975 rpms, according to my OBDII scanner. If I shut it off, then immediately start it, it will go to about 780, then slowly climb back to the 975ish rpms.

Should I wait a little longer to see if the ECU will re-learn the parameters, or should I source a new IAC? Also, I noticed on the end opposite the plug, there’s a metal plate with two screws. Is it possible to adjust the travel on the valve itself?

I appreciate any and all input!

Thanks,
Scott
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99 T4R SR5. OME 906s rear.Stock front springs with 1/4" spacers and Bilstein HDs all around. B&M trans cooler. Deck plate mod and rear diff breather mod. Blacked out bumpers and graphite wheels. Cobra CB in the ashtray. Tundra 199 brake upgrade. Pioneer MVH360BT head unit.
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Old 10-26-2019, 11:53 PM #2
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I also have an idle issue but mine is idling too low and stalling. How did you manage to clean the IAC? I was quoted at $700 for an OEM IAC plus labor at the dealer.
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Old 10-27-2019, 01:06 AM #3
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Did you check that the throttle butterfly closes all the way? The reason I ask is because you can buy the entire throttle body, including (last I checked) IAC valve and throttle position sensor for between $500 and $600. That's what I replaced on mine (the butterfly wouldn't close all the way) when I had an even higher idle than you have: It was running about 1200 RPM when fully warmed up.
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Old 10-27-2019, 04:25 AM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vooryjoni View Post
I also have an idle issue but mine is idling too low and stalling. How did you manage to clean the IAC? I was quoted at $700 for an OEM IAC plus labor at the dealer.
It unbolts from the bottom of the throttle body. I then used throttle body cleaner.
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99 T4R SR5. OME 906s rear.Stock front springs with 1/4" spacers and Bilstein HDs all around. B&M trans cooler. Deck plate mod and rear diff breather mod. Blacked out bumpers and graphite wheels. Cobra CB in the ashtray. Tundra 199 brake upgrade. Pioneer MVH360BT head unit.
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Recent studies have shown that aggressive therapy combined with owning Toyotas, can be affective in breaking the cycle of Jeep addicition.
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Old 10-27-2019, 04:28 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluton View Post
Did you check that the throttle butterfly closes all the way? The reason I ask is because you can buy the entire throttle body, including (last I checked) IAC valve and throttle position sensor for between $500 and $600. That's what I replaced on mine (the butterfly wouldn't close all the way) when I had an even higher idle than you have: It was running about 1200 RPM when fully warmed up.
It looks as though it’s closed all the way. I suspect it’s the IAC because the part that closes doesn’t have the tightness it used to. I can’t imagine the throttle body going bad.
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99 T4R SR5. OME 906s rear.Stock front springs with 1/4" spacers and Bilstein HDs all around. B&M trans cooler. Deck plate mod and rear diff breather mod. Blacked out bumpers and graphite wheels. Cobra CB in the ashtray. Tundra 199 brake upgrade. Pioneer MVH360BT head unit.
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Recent studies have shown that aggressive therapy combined with owning Toyotas, can be affective in breaking the cycle of Jeep addicition.
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Old 10-27-2019, 07:36 AM #6
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Pull it off, clean it and the throttle body well and reassemble. Be careful of those brass screws. Make sure to have a new gasket on hand.
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Old 10-27-2019, 04:58 PM #7
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without even removing it just pop off the coil exposing the armature it'll look like a black knob. rotate it back and forth and should turn freely, it will now act like a idle control. after setting the idle I dabbed a little epoxy on it to keep it in place and I honestly couldn't detect the difference. leave the removed coil plugged in and it won't throw a code!
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Old 10-28-2019, 07:24 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baja1 View Post
without even removing it just pop off the coil exposing the armature it'll look like a black knob. rotate it back and forth and should turn freely, it will now act like a idle control. after setting the idle I dabbed a little epoxy on it to keep it in place and I honestly couldn't detect the difference. leave the removed coil plugged in and it won't throw a code!
Not sure I want to do that when I can buy a new one for 60. When you say remove the armature, you mean the part the harness plugs into? What keeps the engine at the correct idle?
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99 T4R SR5. OME 906s rear.Stock front springs with 1/4" spacers and Bilstein HDs all around. B&M trans cooler. Deck plate mod and rear diff breather mod. Blacked out bumpers and graphite wheels. Cobra CB in the ashtray. Tundra 199 brake upgrade. Pioneer MVH360BT head unit.
Necessity is the mother of invention.
Recent studies have shown that aggressive therapy combined with owning Toyotas, can be affective in breaking the cycle of Jeep addicition.
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