Where the hell did the like button go?

Ah, much better picture.

If the bolt is fully threaded to the point where it broke, your best bet is getting it out by screwing it all the way through.

Luckily, you aren't re-using your calipers so you can just take them apart to get the caliper and rotor out of the way.

If vice grips or whatever don't work (threading it in deeper to pull out from the 'back' side of the hole (towards where the wheel mounts), then a standard right hand drill bit will work. You probably will need to avoid pulling that rust through the knuckle. You might also need to pull the knuckle off the truck to get it done.

-Charlie

Taken down due to causing issues with the site.

"Thanks" Module Disabled

I would also suggest drilling it out, but not how everyone else is telling you to.

If that bolt is truly seized in there, heat will be your best friend. I would center punch the bolt, and use left hand drill bits. Start with 1/8", then 3/16", and lastly 5/16". Drill the bolt will create heat, and will start to break the bolt loose. You might get lucky when you get to the 5/16", and maybe it'll back out as you're drilling through it. I would also recommend using a 135* split point bit. Those are less prone to walk on you.

You can also use MAP gas to heat spindle where the bolt threads in. Once it's hot grab a candle, and press it against the exposed threads. The heat will draw the wax the in, and will loosen the bolt.

Mike

Maybe start with 1/8" which = 2/16", then 3/16" , 1/4"(4/16"), 5/16" ??
stepping up in size or am I missing something ?
Either way good luck OP, really doesn't look that rusty.

Yes, you are correct about the 1/8" coming before 3/16", but not about the 1/4" statement. I skipped 1/4" on purpose since by moving to 5/16 you'll have a better chance of the bolt coming free. If you want to go with 1/4" before the 5/16" fine. I would then step up past 5/16" to maybe 3/8" (.375" or 6/16).

Mike

To add to what @96RedRunner said, if you have a drill bit the same size as the hole in the caliper you can use that to center the dimple for the pilot hole.

Turning the bolt lefty loosy is what started problem, they work don't think so in this case rust will never make it through knuckle.
You spot on with jumping from pilot hole to 5/16 or 3/8 for some meat of the bolt and heat.

No, turning it left with no heat is what caused this. You would have seen the same results if this were reverse threads.

Applying heat, and drilling with left hand bits "might" cause to the bolt to extract itself while drilling with the larger bit. If the left hand bit doesn't cause the bolt to come free a regular bit won't either.

If this were me I would drill the first pilot hole, and apply some heat to the knuckle. Drill the next hole, give some love taps with a hammer, apply more heat, hold a candle to exposed end, and a few more taps. Then start drilling the large hole while tapping on the spindle with the hammer. Chances are, it'll back out. I've been able to get several bolts out that way on my rustrunner.

More than one way to skin a cat, lol. Lefty's def have their uses have a small set to 1/2" Mapp gas on hand.
I feel for OP it's a PITA job.

I agree, but it's doable.

n00b update: I've not even been able to make a noticeable dent in the bolt for the pilot hole. Using my Craftsman 19.2V cordless drill on the highest speed and torque setting with a 5/64" SureBilt left-handed bit, this is what I got after about 3-4 minutes of drilling:



(It's not obvious in the photo, but the bit has made next to no progress on top of the center punch I used.)

The drill bit clearly isn't the highest quality but my local Home Depot didn't have any left-handed bits and so I took what I could find at AutoZone. Do I need to get cobalt/titanium bits online or is my drill under-powered? I could continue though it feels like I'd need to drill for hours on end.

Edit: I checked about 10 times to make sure the drill is spinning counter-clockwise.

Edit 2: Decided to try a regular Cobalt bit and started cutting into it within 15-20 seconds. It will take time to go all the way through the bolt but at least it's progress. I figure it makes no difference whether I go CW or CCW. Will update more tomorrow.

Slow down! Not sure what your drill can do but probably you're going too fast.

Cutting speed should be 70-80 surface feet/minute for steel.

RPM=(cutting speed X 4)/ dia of bit. So with a 5/16 bit you're looking at ~900 rpm.

Throw the first bit out. You've probably burned it up. Start with a fresh bit, go slower and some coolant wouldn't hurt (if you don't have cutting fluid you can just use a bit of oil or transmission fluid)

If you're going the right speed you should see small chips forming and dropping off the drill as you go. Too slow and you'll bind. Too fast and it will just spin and dull your bit. Pressing harder won't solve that.

You might also consider starting with a pilot hole. Maybe 1/8" or so. That will be easier to drill and will help guide the larger bit.

When you get to tapping the hole, iron is difficult to tap! Take your time and back the cutter out as you go to clear chips. You don't need to break a tap off in there once you finally get the bolt out.

Good luck!

Gang - I gave it the old college try with various bits, MAP gas, candle wax, etc. but just can't get the bolt out. That said, it's clear the bolt is only seized to the knuckle as the caliper rotates freely around the broken bolt (until it hits the dust shield on the bottom).

Assuming I can remove the four bolts holding the caliper together and take off the pads, shims, etc., will the caliper separate into two if I smack it with a mallet? Just eyeballing, it looks like it would take serious force, so figured I should ask before going that route. Removing the caliper should allow a vise-grip to latch on to the end of the bolt.

The saga continues, albeit with progress. I was able to break free the four bolts holding the caliper together with virtually no effort and the caliper separated on its own. I now have much better access to the bolt:



I'm reaching out locally to see if anyone would be willing to come out with a welding machine and weld a nut on the end. Hopefully, hitting it with a torch some more and drawing candle wax in there will help break it free with a breaker bar. Wish me luck.