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Old 02-08-2019, 11:16 AM #46
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Here's a good video on the helicoil process:
YouTube

Try Amazon or Ebay for the helicoil kit. I got mine from Amazon when I had to repair a snapped/seized exhaust bolt a couple years ago.
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:28 AM #47
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It was only one bolt that was stuck right? Measure the one that wasn't damaged.

My guess is M12 but measure the diameter and then you'll also need the pitch which will be specified by the distance between each peak (or valley) A thread gauge tool is useful but you can just measure the distance across 10 threads, and then divide by 10

Edit: pay attention to the markings on the head too. A brake caliper bolt will be a specific grade. This isn't the place for whatever they have at the hardware store (unless they happen to have the correct grade!) Best bet is just to buy the toyota bolt.
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:33 AM #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varol1 View Post
I was able to finally drill most of the bolt out with a 5/16" bit.
Oh so close, good deal.
Something you could try with small chisel and hammer.
Strike whats left of bolt nub toward center of hole you drilled.
You should be able to get whats left broke loose enough to get it out no damage to threads.
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:52 AM #49
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I picked up a new bolt from Toyota yesterday. She's either an M10 or M12 x 1.25mm (fine thread). My guess is M10 but going to order one of each Heli-Coil just in case.

Coolest website ever: Bolt Depot - Printable Fastener Tools

Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner View Post
Oh so close, good deal.
Something you could try with small chisel and hammer.
Strike whats left of bolt nub toward center of hole you drilled.
You should be able to get whats left broke loose enough to get it out no damage to threads.
Thanks, will also give this a shot.

Last edited by varol1; 02-08-2019 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:54 AM #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I_bRAD View Post
Edit: pay attention to the markings on the head too. A brake caliper bolt will be a specific grade. This isn't the place for whatever they have at the hardware store (unless they happen to have the correct grade!) Best bet is just to buy the toyota bolt.
It's a metric bolt so the markings on the head won't really matter. The crappiest metric bolt will be an 8.8, and that comparable in strength to a Grade 8 bolt. Which should be more than enough for mounting calipers.

When talking about imperial bolts then yes. Make sure count the dashes on the head, add two additional, and that'll give you the grade of bolt.

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Old 02-08-2019, 11:56 AM #51
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Definitely try to use a chisel to pound the remnants of the bolt inward, that might work.

If not, then go with the insert. I think it's either an M10 or M12 (I'm guessing M10 based on your pictures). Like others said, measure the diameter of the good bolt (at the threads) to get the "M" number - e.g. 10 mm is M10. To measure the pitch, measure the length of 5 or 10 threads, then divide by the number of threads. So if you measured 12.5 mm for 10 threads, you get 1.25, so it's a 1.25 pitch. So in our example you'd have an M10-1.25 bolt.

BTW, Heli-coil is just one brand, I often use Perma-coil, which are made in USA, I get them on Amazon. For instance, here is the M10-1.25 set - https://smile.amazon.com/Perma-Coil-...r=8-3-fkmrnull.
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:32 PM #52
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No need to measure the bolt diameter, length, and thread count. There's room for error on the thread count when you go that route.

You need a 12-1.25 x 35mm for the caliper. You can also go OEM for the bolt, and that part number is 90105-12175.

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Old 02-08-2019, 12:38 PM #53
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In that case I'd grab this one, about $20 cheaper than the same kit on Amazon, or the heli-coil version - Perma Coil 3221-M12F Metric Thread Repair Insert Kit M12x1.25, 5543-12, loc A7 | eBay
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:52 PM #54
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If you can go up one more drill size without hitting the threads, you got this.

If you can deform/break the bolt now, go for it. Otherwise, go up one more drill size.

If you are careful, a quick clean up with a tap and you will be all good.

-Charlie
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Old 02-08-2019, 01:21 PM #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
If you can go up one more drill size without hitting the threads, you got this.

If you can deform/break the bolt now, go for it. Otherwise, go up one more drill size.

If you are careful, a quick clean up with a tap and you will be all good.

-Charlie
I'll give it a whirl.

Taking the safer assumption the OEM bolt is M10, the Time-Sert kit comes with a 13/32" drill bit (0.40625" diameter). I've clunkily drilled with a 5/16" bit (0.3125"), so I figure I can go up to a 3/8" (0.375") safely without impacting the ability to put in a Time-Sert. FWIW, I haven't read any horror stories with Heli-Coils, but the general sentiment is Time-Sert is made from more durable components, and given the bolt is holding the freaking brake caliper in place, I'm not taking any chances. The additional ~$60 is worth my life .

Last edited by varol1; 02-08-2019 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 02-08-2019, 01:33 PM #56
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I'm confirming that the stock bolt size is M12x1.25 x 35mm.

I lost a caliper bolt after doing my TBU (my fault, I didn't torque). Long story short, no one in my area carries that pitch of bolt besides Ace Hardware. Not Home Depot, Lowes, etc. I've been using the same bolt I got from them for over a year now, no issue.

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Old 02-08-2019, 01:46 PM #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varol1 View Post
I'll give it a whirl.

Taking the safer assumption the OEM bolt is M10, the Time-Sert kit comes with a 13/32" drill bit (0.40625" diameter). I've clunkily drilled with a 5/16" bit (0.3125"), so I figure I can go up to a 3/8" (0.375") safely without impacting the ability to put in a Time-Sert. FWIW, I haven't read any horror stories with Heli-Coils, but the general sentiment is Time-Sert is made from more durable components, and given the bolt is holding the freaking brake caliper in place, I'm not taking any chances. The additional ~$60 is worth my life .
Post #52 and #56 have the correct bolt size stated. It's a 12-1.25 x 35mm, and not a 10mm.

Mike
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Old 02-08-2019, 05:31 PM #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
If you can go up one more drill size without hitting the threads, you got this.

-Charlie
Look closely at last pic he's real close to threads now on left side of hole.

Last edited by 96RedRunner; 02-08-2019 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 02-08-2019, 05:59 PM #59
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For future reference:

Quote:
and that part number is 90105-12175.
That tells you it is M12. Works for washers and nuts, too.

ALL Toyota M12 bolts are 1.25 pitch.

Full list:

Quote:
6 mm diameter - 1 mm pitch (iso course) - requires 10 mm wrench to fit head / nut
8 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso course) - requires 12 mm wrench to fit head / nut
10 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 14 mm wrench to fit head / nut
12 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso other) - requires 17 mm wrench to fit head / nut
14 mm diameter - 1.5 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 19 mm wrench to fit head / nut
16 mm diameter - 1.5 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 22 mm wrench to fit head / nut
So, yes M12x1.25. This is the one size that is tough to find in auto parts/hardware stores, as this is the only non-standard pitch.

The length you need to measure.

Here is the scoop on grades/torque ratings....

NUTS & BOLTS: Sizes and wrench equivalents - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

You're welcome.
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:35 AM #60
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@varol1 , Another option to drilling next size up, use a triangle shape file file a groove in bolt in thinnest area without getting into threads.
hammer and chisel then.
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