I looked through the write ups and didn't see anything about passing smog check..

Was hoping there might be a do's and don't bother's list for our 3rd Gens?

I know to have fresh oil and newish plugs of course, but any tricks at all??

Like is it any better to run higher octane gas or do those bottles of Guaranteed to PASS semi-work?! I passed 2 years ago, but just want to be sure I sail through the 1st time this year...

My wife finally convinced me to sell my baby, so just need to get a Smog Check to sell it here in San Diego..

in regards to passing the sniffer? as long as no CEL is on you should be good?

Running the cats at high temp for awhile prior normally helps if you think you'll be close

Drive at least 10 miles beforehand, don't turn it off (find a place with a short or no line).

That should be it unless something is wrong.

-Charlie

Same. Mine passed all the emissions but still had the code in the computer so he failed me.

Yes thanks, I know to have it as HOT as possible. I'll try and make an appt when I find a good place to take it, so it doesn't sit and cool off after a freeway bombing run..

Testing for any stored codes and readiness with a scanner or something like OBD Fusion also helps. I used it this weekend to pass.

which code failed?

I had to smog mine last fall.. failed, and the guy said "did you recently replace the battery? I had forgot that the day before after a flight home I found my car battery dead from the door ajar/dome light from the weekend.

Anyway, I had to basically do that drive pattern of "10 min at 50mph, 20 min stop/go in the city at low speed" If you have a OBDII or can borrow one it'll tell you if you're throwing EVAP codes

I had no clue my '98 was even capable of "throwing codes" I thought you just had to have all the OEM equipment in place for them to visually inspect and then not be spewing too much of the bad stuff for the test..

It's running OK and I've never had any idiot lights light up, so I'll just hope I'm good to go!

...ok but you can be "throwing a code" without a light on. an EVAP code will not throw a CEL. your ECU just won't be ready to be tested, and you'll fail on that. again, if you have a OBDII or can borrow one, plug it in an check before you waste time doing a smog check. you only get one free re-check if you fail, then you have to pay again.

Don't overthink this. Go get it tested. If you fail, then work on solutions...

-Charlie

It’s a simple check with a scan tool. I failed 2 years ago due to this. I had reset the ECU after a tune up like a week before the smog test, and my readiness monitor was what caused me to fail. I had to pay for a retest (at a discounted rate) after completing the drive cycle a week later too. No free re-test for me. Maybe I’ve been going to the wrong places for my Star certified tests

OP, Easy check for you that could save you some time and cash. I’d check it first.

If your battery has been disconnected, you need to make sure all your monitors are ok.

Short story:
2015: First 2-year smog test. 135K miles, original cat, new plugs, 2 year-old wires. Drove it 15-20 min on freeway first. Test: Barely passed on HC, one PPM above fail. Started thinking about a new cat for next smog test in 2 years.
2017: Before test, drove it about 100 miles on the freeway in early morning, pulled into smog shop. Shop's tester has software problems...come back later.
Car sits from 9am to about 2pm.
Drive 5 minutes back to smog shop.
Car passes with lower HC numbers than than it had 2 years ago.
Lesson: A long, hot drive is better than a short hot drive. I used regular gas, which I started using about 2 weeks before the test, so the computer would 'get used to it.'

What gas do you normally use?

I think you need to have 4 out of 6 ok. I know it took forever for mine to get the last one ok after I disconnected the battery. Smog place should check for you before hand if you ask them to.