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Old 02-11-2019, 09:09 AM #1
TurtleAdventure TurtleAdventure is offline
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Shutter at 55 and up

What do you guys think about this.
98 SR5 4x4 automatic all stock, 160K miles. Basically it is my winter car and some random other season driving.

Anyways. It shutters at 55 and up kind of bad. It was doing this and I felt steering vibrations and shake. So I new LBJ, UBJ, outter tie rods, new tires, rims, alignment.

Now there is nothing in the steering. There isnt even any slack in it. Going 55 shutter starts and I can let go of the wheel and it goes straight. I dont even feel much in the wheel. But the whole truck is shaking.

Anyone else have something similar? My guess is something in the drive line like a messed up drive shaft.

Thanks friends


Update
Interesting thing happened. It drove smooth at 70 on my way home. I hit a pothole and it started with the vibration/shutter again. Then again a few potholes latter 70 and smooth. When it isnt ice and snow everywhere I will jack it up and see what is loose. Hopefully and easy fix.

Last edited by TurtleAdventure; 02-12-2019 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 02-11-2019, 11:09 AM #2
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I ran into an issue like this, years ago. I thought my engine was about to explode or implode. With some research on this forum, either by searching tons of posts, or by asking questions (I don't recall which method), I found out that it was the u-joints of my driveshaft.

The way I confirmed it was to crawl underneath, and grab the shaft near each u-joint and give it a good shake. If you feel any movement when you shake it, then it must be that u-joint. So, I suggest you try that.

I ended up repairing that $1,500 driveshaft for about $100, including the arbor press that I needed for the job, and kept mounted to my workbench, for future use on other things. If I recall, the new u-joints cost me $50-$60, but they have Zerk grease fittings on them, and they are removable and replaceable. If they should ever wear out, which they won't, because I grease them every year or so. It was a pretty involved job, requiring surgically cutting out the u-joints, and pressing in the new ones. I have tools and am handy with them, but it wasn't an easy or simple job.

The OEM design is really crappy, as the u-joints are neither maintainable or replaceable without surgery. It is either the result of beancounters telling Toyota engineers what to do, or it is planned obsolescence.
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Old 02-11-2019, 11:31 AM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurtleAdventure View Post
What do you guys think about this.
98 SR5 4x4 automatic all stock, 160K miles. Basically it is my winter car and some random other season driving.

Anyways. It shutters at 55 and up kind of bad. It was doing this and I felt steering vibrations and shake. So I new LBJ, UBJ, outter tie rods, new tires, rims, alignment.

Now there is nothing in the steering. There isnt even any slack in it. Going 55 shutter starts and I can let go of the wheel and it goes straight. I dont even feel much in the wheel. But the whole truck is shaking.

Anyone else have something similar? My guess is something in the drive line like a messed up drive shaft.

Thanks friends
The symptom you are describing can only be a rotating imbalance. The speed sensitive nature makes me inclined to point at the wheels or tires. I know you say you installed new tires and rims. Can you give more information about them? Either they are not balanced correctly(dynamic) or are faulty. Of course you could also have an issue with the front hub/rotor, as they rotate too.
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:00 PM #4
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You got any snow/ice build up in wheels? It's usually obvious but sometimes its not. Or has it been doing this pre-winter?

I like the other suggestions too (Ujoints or wheels/tires).
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:08 PM #5
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Im thinking driveshaft also since you not really feeling it in you steering and its tracking straight.
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:11 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calimobber View Post
Im thinking driveshaft also since you not really feeling it in you steering and its tracking straight.
Me too, and the driveshaft is very easy and quick to check. Nothing to remove or take apart. I am fond of checking the simplest things first (took me a while to learn that - lol).
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:28 PM #7
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BTDT, was about to tear my whole truck apart until I went back to the basics - tires. Tires are a lot of mass being rotated at high speed, so it's the best place to start. New tires alone may not fix it, you should get them road force balanced (not every shop can do that).

Do that first, and see if helps - it's the cheapest and easiest place to start.
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:47 PM #8
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Vibration (BZZZZZZZZ) at speed is probably driveline - driveshafts/u-joints or transfer case and pinion bearings.

Shake (wobble, wobble, wobble) is tires or steering components (and sometimes alignment).

At least, start from those places.

-Charlie
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Old 02-11-2019, 02:20 PM #9
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I'm with crowd saying driveshaft, mine would start at 45+ mph.
Ended up being U-joint at rear diff.
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Old 02-11-2019, 02:28 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Vibration (BZZZZZZZZ) at speed is probably driveline - driveshafts/u-joints or transfer case and pinion bearings.

Shake (wobble, wobble, wobble) is tires or steering components (and sometimes alignment).

At least, start from those places.

-Charlie
Thanks for this. yes Vibration not shake.
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Old 02-11-2019, 02:29 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobat66 View Post
I ran into an issue like this, years ago. I thought my engine was about to explode or implode. With some research on this forum, either by searching tons of posts, or by asking questions (I don't recall which method), I found out that it was the u-joints of my driveshaft.

The way I confirmed it was to crawl underneath, and grab the shaft near each u-joint and give it a good shake. If you feel any movement when you shake it, then it must be that u-joint. So, I suggest you try that.

I ended up repairing that $1,500 driveshaft for about $100, including the arbor press that I needed for the job, and kept mounted to my workbench, for future use on other things. If I recall, the new u-joints cost me $50-$60, but they have Zerk grease fittings on them, and they are removable and replaceable. If they should ever wear out, which they won't, because I grease them every year or so. It was a pretty involved job, requiring surgically cutting out the u-joints, and pressing in the new ones. I have tools and am handy with them, but it wasn't an easy or simple job.

The OEM design is really crappy, as the u-joints are neither maintainable or replaceable without surgery. It is either the result of beancounters telling Toyota engineers what to do, or it is planned obsolescence.
Thanks, I will check it out. Ive never had a driveshaft go bad and I looked at it but didnt see anything crazy. I will try shaking it. That is really the test of everything LOL
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Old 02-11-2019, 06:55 PM #12
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check the output shaft of the transfer case for up/down movement - there's a bearing there that can be an issue.
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Old 02-16-2019, 09:16 PM #13
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OP - just curious if you have identified the problem. Any success?
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Old 02-18-2019, 03:05 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurtleAdventure View Post
Thanks, I will check it out. Ive never had a driveshaft go bad and I looked at it but didnt see anything crazy. I will try shaking it. That is really the test of everything LOL
If shaking it around doesn't reveal anything, pull the rear driveshaft and pop it into 4WD. Get it up to highway speeds and you'll know real quick if it's the rear driveshaft or not. Did this to chase down a vibration I had and was able to eliminate the driveshaft as the culprit.

It's only 8 bolts to get the shaft out. Compress the slip yoke a little (push it towards the transmission) and it'll fall right out.
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Old 02-18-2019, 02:09 PM #15
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I had the same situation happen in my '98... A buzzing vibration(not shaking) that originally started at 60 and would disappear at 70 and just continued to get worse. I checked for play in the U-Joints an there was none to speak of... Turned out to be my rear U-Joint. After trying to diagnose myself and a few shops trying too I took it to a driveline shop and they tore it apart and found the bad U-Joint. Runs smooth now. My take away is there isn't always play in a bad U-Joint.
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