+1 on the SPC's being your issue, for 1 they are meant for a lifted truck and then you really are gonna have to find a atleast a 4x4 oriented shop better yet a toyota specialty shop.
No one could get my 3" lift with SPC's aligned properly until I did so and they got it perfect! The arms confuse a tech who aligns stock cars all day.
It might be worth talking to Valley Hybrids in Stockton. Don't be fooled by their name, they do lots of Land Cruiser work. They might be able to help you find a place that do your alignment properly.
I'm willing to bet that the UCAs are the problem. Most of them aren't meant to be used on a stock vehicle.
I would agree if I hadn’t had even worse positive camber with stock uppers on. I’ll get photos today hopefully and upload later here. I’ll also grab some measurements.
Through swapping the coil overs and struts, the truck ended up with nearly an inch or so more clearance on the front (looks like it was lifted). I suspect my front coilovers were just so blown out that’s why it looks nearly lifted without any actual lift installed.
It might be worth talking to Valley Hybrids in Stockton. Don't be fooled by their name, they do lots of Land Cruiser work. They might be able to help you find a place that do your alignment properly.
Appreciate that!!! I’ll check them out. I’m going to 4wheel parts off 880 to get their take and have them align it. I called ahead and they’re used to working with adjustable upper arms, so I’m hopeful they can get me pointed in the right direction.
Fremont Alignment is my go to place that quickly fixed what another shop screwed up and said was impossible. Not sure how they do with modded trucks but give them a ring.
I missed the adjustable uppers but they should have a close to stock setting if not lifted...if they are the SPC they should have a diagram on where to put it to keep it close.
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Bought this 99 in 01 and haven't let it go since! Valve dropped at 195k so I rebuilt it with reman heads, new rings and one new piston...tough to find the correct numbered one but I did...still had the original hatch...I soaped it and did a light hatch to help the new rings seat...that was in 2015...since then I did a basic lift and put some VTX 18x9 inch wheels with 0 offset...Ive grounded the rear locker, ran a diff extension into the gas cap, did the hood piston mod...GM Alternator...13WL brakes..30 year ASE Master Tech with more tools than sense, so I quit everything and work at home now.
I’m equally confused. There is no lift on the vehicle yet serious alignment issues. I have adjustable control arms up top so at this point I’m not sure if the alignment shop is just garbage and really shitty at their job, could be the case, or I’ve got fear damage pushing my alignment so out of whack no shop can fix it. Thing is, I’ve only ever had tiny fender benders that barely dented the front bumper.
This is my third alignment shop that’s basically jut not able to get it to 0 camber, 0 toe, 3 degrees of caster like I asked. Obviously I’m not the tech and am just going off what I’ve been told.
At this point, I am considering taking it to a Toyota dealer, or just throwing $300 at a 4 Wheel Parts store near by for a custom alignment to get it to the right specs as I just don’t believe I’m all the way out of adjustments and cannot get to zero.
My bad. I assumed the truck was lifted somehow. I just don't understand how people can make 32s fit under a stock vehicle. Well, the only thing left then is incompetence. They did change the specs too. Probably to deceive you. Run from that shop.
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SILVER 2000 4runner Limited TOTALED
WHITE/SILVER 1999 4runner Limited l Rear Locker l Tundra/890 coils | 5100 Bilsteins all around | Sonoran Steel Bumpstops l 199 mm Tundra brake upgrade | SCS Matte Gray Ray10 Rims | 275 70 17 BFG KO2 tires | LR UCAs | EIMKEITH panhard brackets | LED interior upgrade l Rear LED tailights l Pioneer AVH-X5700BHS Alpine Type "R" speakers NVX JAD800.4 Class D Amp Kenwood Under seat Subwoofer l Front window tint 20% l Weathertech window visors and floormats l OutGear Solutions Full Length roofrack l Morimoto 40" LED lightbar
OP some good advice being offered here! But I have to agree that NO QUALIFIED TECH should worried about camber affecting toe. Although the toe will change when camber is moved, camber is not affected by adjusting toe(unless you had to move it 5 inches).
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1989 FJ62 5.3 Chevy, FZJ80 Axles, 4.88's with ARB.
2000 2wd runner, 4 cylinders, yes it IS slow.
1999 4WD SR5 Desert Dune 3.4 351K and counting.
2000 4WD sport 3.4 Elocker <--My son's but I still end up paying.
2001 2WD SR5 3.4 <-- My daughter's...see preceding line.
I agree that this alignment shop is not great. The shop doing the actual labor of replacing parts agrees the alignment shops word seems wrong. I’m going to try 4wheel parts in Oakland out on Monday. Alignment there will set me back $300 but they at least are used to working on 4x4s and trucks with modifications.
I’m hopeful they can get me squared away. It’s damn near impossible to find a trustworthy alignment shop out here.
My bad. I assumed the truck was lifted somehow. I just don't understand how people can make 32s fit under a stock vehicle. Well, the only thing left then is incompetence. They did change the specs too. Probably to deceive you. Run from that shop.
Agreed I’m running the hell away. Truck actually does sit higher than a normal 99 would stock, but not by much and is mostly due to the 32s.
Im hopeful the dedicated 4x4 place will get my rig squared away but at this point I’m not confident in any place.
Finally got the truck into a dedicated 4x4 shop and they got it aligned perfectly. Truck drives like brand new and tracks straight as an arrow. I’ll post the sheet later needless to say I’m thrilled to have a truck that drives normally again.
That's great to hear, sad that it took several tries to get it right...are the specs the same left and right, lol!!
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Bought this 99 in 01 and haven't let it go since! Valve dropped at 195k so I rebuilt it with reman heads, new rings and one new piston...tough to find the correct numbered one but I did...still had the original hatch...I soaped it and did a light hatch to help the new rings seat...that was in 2015...since then I did a basic lift and put some VTX 18x9 inch wheels with 0 offset...Ive grounded the rear locker, ran a diff extension into the gas cap, did the hood piston mod...GM Alternator...13WL brakes..30 year ASE Master Tech with more tools than sense, so I quit everything and work at home now.
Finally got the truck into a dedicated 4x4 shop and they got it aligned perfectly. Truck drives like brand new and tracks straight as an arrow. I’ll post the sheet later needless to say I’m thrilled to have a truck that drives normally again.
Been a while, but was wondering if you remember what the shop said the issue was. Was it just incompetence?
Neither myself nor a couple reputable shops in town can get my camber down. As a result my front tires are done within a year. I am lifted on 32's. Was considering buying SPC's to replace my JBA's and see if I could adjust them for camber.
Been a while, but was wondering if you remember what the shop said the issue was. Was it just incompetence?
Neither myself nor a couple reputable shops in town can get my camber down. As a result my front tires are done within a year. I am lifted on 32's. Was considering buying SPC's to replace my JBA's and see if I could adjust them for camber.
The reason why the alignment techs can't dial in your camber and caster could be because your cam adjusters are frozen inside the bushing sleeves. It's VERY common. But, the only way you can figure out if they are frozen from corrosion inside the bushing sleeve is you take the bolts out and then try to remove the cam adjusters. My bet is you have some frozen cam adjusters.
These two videos will help you out with the process. The first video covers most of the job. The second video shows how to cut out frozen cam adjusters so you can remove the control arms and also shows a way to get the bushings out using a press rather than the bottle jack technique shown in Part 1.
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