2001 SR5

Passenger window will not go up or down unless I press both driver and passenger switch in the same direction at the same time. Basically, both have to be up or down, otherwise it won't work. As soon as I let go of either switch, it quits working.

All other driver panel window switches work fine. Passenger power locks work, just the window switch won't work independently of driver side.

So far I have swapped out the passenger door motor and both driver and passenger switch panels. Problem still exists.

Checked for related fuses but didn't find anything.

No clue what else could be causing it. I searched the forums but couldn't find this problem. If a thread exists with this same situation, please let me know.

Try this.

First disconnect the battery, let it sit for 5 minutes, and reconnect.

Now turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine.

Push down on the passenger window MAIN SWITCH only for 5 seconds.

Pull up on the Passenger window Main Switch only for 5 seconds.

This should reset the switch module. I had to do it on mine after I left the dome light on for a few weeks and drained the battery.

Ok thank you. Have already done many tests but not like you describe.

Will try it and follow up.

Have you checked that the window "lock out" switch on the drivers door is not pushed down?

If it's pushed down, it will "lock out" all window controls at the 3 other doors. All controls would still work at the master switch though.

That was the first thing I checked.

Did you try to clean the contact points inside the switch on passenger door? If, not, you can try that.

I am having the exact same problem on my 02 4Runner. I ended up putting two different used replacement window regulators in neither of which worked (or so I thought ) only to find out when fiddling with it that the motor actually did go up and down when both switches were pressed in the same direction. Same deal- fuses are fine relays are fine all other windows work but the passenger window switch will not work independently. I tried the above response suggestion to reset the window module. Didn't work, unless I'm doing something wrong. I tried doing the reset on both the master switch module on the drivers for and also the passenger switch, both to no avail. From what I understand this just resets the limits on the motors after the battery has been disconnected in case the motors are only part way up or down when the unit loses power. If the window switch itself is not working the first place I feel like there reset doesn't do any thing. Wondering if the OP ever fixed this bug??

Audiojake,

I don't come here often, but I wanted to answer your question.

No I never tried what shadow247 suggested. I truly appreciate the input, just never bothered. To be blunt, I have significant doubts that will fix it. If replacing the motor and both control panels didn't work, I don't see how a reset will.

We are now holding both the driver and passenger window switches at the same time to make it roll up and down. Not perfect but it works.

If that reset doesn't work (which you said did not), I have no clue what else could be causing it.

I am just wondering, if wires that run from each of the front doors been verified as good with out being broken or rubbed insulation off causing shorts?? Being its only the passenger window that does this, not the rears too, really shouldn't have anything to do with the lock out switch to all the windows (always the first thing to check which has been done).

The drivers door is always the most likely location of broken and damaged wires as that door is open and closed more then any other one on the ride.

The easiest way to check these wires are from one side being the power windows switch harness and the other side being the firewall plug where the door harness wires plug in. Being these are doors, we have to open and close them and see if the wires are good while doing continuity tests. As wires can make when open or close if damaged.

From the Factory Service Manual Volume 2 BE section (Body Electrical) for Power window control system. Gives you procedures to test the entire power windows system as well. :-)

I really am suspecting a broken wire or shorted wire in the front doors causing this very bizarre passenger window issue. Hope this helps. :-)

It's cool, you can ignore the free advice of a guy who has done this very thing to countless Toyotas. You can put all the new switches you want in, if you don't reprogram the switch, IT WILL NEVER WORK.

Need some proof? I literally just did the evaporator in my Avalon. That required pulling the entire dash and of course unhooking the battery. When I got it all buttoned up, same problem, the switch wouldn't work unless I was pushing both.

Do the quick reset procedure, you've got nothing to lose at this point.

Shadow,

No disrespect intended. Nowhere in your original message did you say you have done this countless times and it worked. You only stated you tried it yourself, but never actually said it resolved the problem. The message quite literally read as, try this, maybe it will work. I understand the try it part, but you seemed upset that I didn't automatically believe it to be true.

It was low priority for me. I had my doubts, and so did my mechanic friend, but I wasn't worried. Audiojake chimed in and claimed to have followed those exact steps, but they didn't work, hence my reply.

I apologize if my response offended you.

I just had same problem. Are your referring to the MAIN switch as the passenger door switch or the driver side? Thanks.

Thank you shadow247! I was gonna tear into the door today but tried your tip at my lunch time and it worked! Many many props to you!

Gotta be that MAIN SWITCH refers to the driver's master switch panel.

I have a 2017 4 Runner Limited.

The car has basically only been driven every so often in the yard in the past 4 years. I have 32k on it and just got the title and began to drive it. All the switches work except the Main switch for the front Passenger window.

3 of the 4 main ones work, plus each switch on the corresponding doors. I tried the 5 minute, 5 second reset, but either did something wrong or it is something else. I will try again tomorrow.

Has anyone ever just had 1 switch that actually was a bad switch and can just the one be replaced?