section width of the tire and offset of the wheel of the exact size you want to run will determine everything. it's the only way to know for sure. backspace is only for wheel clearance. will the wheels fit? yes they will.

backspace tells you nothing really when it comes to tires. it might be import for clearance on the steering knuckle but... in the 4runners case that is not the issue. I agree there is a key measurement for clearance and each vehicle type/suspension variation is going to be different.

measuring from wheel mounting surface to the obstruction, in this case that is the UCA.

I know this measurement is 5.5" on my truck because I can measure it. at full droop. I prob should go measure it at full compression as well.

the tire I'm looking @ is BFG KM3 285/70 R17

according to BFG this tire has a section width of 11.5" ON 8.5"

wheel is 701 MR70178560500 so... 17x8.5 0 offset and 4.75 backspace

so that actually makes things easy because 0 offset, if we did have an offset we would have to account for it.

11.5" / 2 = 5.75" so this wheel tire combo is going to rub.

but this is good because it tells me how far I need to move things.

11.5" / 2 = 5.75" - 1/4" = 5.5" but that will rub so really 3/8" -10 mm offset would be the min value to shoot @. and you can't go to far unless you want to start hacking fenders off.

- offset moves tire out so you would take the (section width/2) - offset and that gives you the inside protrusion.
0 center line just split the section width
+ offset move the tire in so you would take the (section width/2) + offset and that gives the inside protrusion.

for 16" wheels this is different

If I want to go with 285/75 R16

SECTION WIDTH ON RIM WIDTH 11.3" ON 8"

16x8 0 offset backspace 4.5

11.3" / 2 = 5.65 so closer but still this would need a - offset to make up.

bottom line if you going to run bigger tires than stock... real world measurements are the only way to know for sure and of course once you mount the wheel and tire your out that $ for sure. trial and error.

@eimkeith yea exactly.

I like those wheels! Only problem is that with no ring (either fake or real) is there is no protection for the wheel from rocks and boulders on trails. I can see the lip of those things getting trashed pretty quickly.

I did look at the method gallery for Toyota

Toyota Wheels

there are no shots of any 3rd gens running these wheels or any method wheels. so pretty sure they are targeting newer platforms not 3rd gens at all.

if you know for sure the 16x8 or 17x8.5 will work without spacers and no rubbing I will order a set. I'm probably heading the level 8 path because they make a -6mm offset in the same size that should work better than the methods.

if the answer is yes those will work yes we will return them if they don't then again I'm in, but my experience is once the wheel is mounted to a tire it's not returnable.

This is the only one I found:

Attached Images

 

"If I want to go with 285/75 R16 16x8 0 offset backspace 4.5"

This is what I ran on 96Red with 2.75" lift Cooper STT's, no issues with UCA.
Occasionally if turned just right and stuffed just right tire would scub rear plastic inner fender. If steering on lock turned and stuffed just right would scuff frame a bit, worked the same with fender opening nothing more than a scuff.
Believe extended bumps would have solved the issue. 0 offset 4.5" BS is a sweet spot.
Did not have running boards on, did have to remove front LtD bumper cladding and trim valance.

Gotcha.

I guess I don't care how much is hanging out on each side of the center of the wheel as I am about how much a combo is going to rub my frame. Cutting down on rubbing it has been a lot easier for me to figure out backspace and width. Going from a 16x8 4.5" backspace to a 16x8 4" wheel is going to gain me a .5" of clearance at the frame.

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It sounds like you are talking about filling them with a bunch of little plastic pellets? Questionable practice anyway, but never heard of them in bead locks. Might not make too many friends if they poured out from a torn sidewall.

Suppose you could try balancing them best you can, but that would be like waxing your car before your first crack up derby. It doesn't compute.

Yes you can go 75mph no problem and you can abuse them at that speed.

Sounds like you are after style points, which we all are. It's all good. I don't have nearly the experience on the trails as much as I do with desert racing. Wheels of course are big deal style wise, and desert racers have a strict set of style rules. The black sock flat billers size up everyone and if you have a set of bead locks on a street truck that does not need them, they won't be your friend. That 'need' will be sized up by not only the competency and fabrication of the rest of the build, but also whether it's obvious that it truly gets used in way that bead locks are needed.

These same guys that adhere to strict style rules within their tribe, most of them run faux bead locks on their street trucks. But to be cool, you need to get the right ones. The bead lock bolts should actually look real, and the manufacturers that also make real bead locks are the de facto choice. Just don't get those off brand wheels that too few bolts around the rim. Methods are a safe choice as far as tribal style.

I raced Baja for 10 years and have destroyed countless bead locks. Still occasion BITD class 10. Wheel choice tends to become more a function of strength and reliability. Sure, I care about stye for my 4runner, and even if I pursue much much more serious trails and wear black socks and a flat bill, it's hard to imagine I would ever need real bead locks. Mad respect to the fellas that need and use them on the trail.

right, I mean I don't really need much. I could ride my bike everywhere so... the question of need is really subjective IMO.

I don't really care about being judged. fooling around offroad is about fun and recreation for me. I don't need to prove I can break my truck or my body beating the crap out stuff. function over form always where it counts. respect for running the Baja that is some hard core stuff. now... if you told me you did in the stock VW beetle class... those dudes are hardcore.

I do wheel offroad but I'm not into running any races. I like to run lower pressures but I really don't want to pop a bead. I know running bead locks would give me the piece of mind. In the end I just went with old school steel pizza cutter. I know a couple of people with dedicated trail rigs who run home brew bead locks. but... they don't drive down the road.

Truck looks great. FWIW if you did get bead locks, I have no judgement. You asked to be schooled and I shared what I’ve learned. For those that do have judgement, their trucks look alike. I am, after all, the guy with the bright pink shift knob with a ruby encrusted skull. I get ripped apart for that thing but I love it.

How about these instead?

What is Inner Air Lock? — Inner Air Lock – Made in USA

I didn't see any pictures of people running beadlocks or much real world experience. I ran Trail Ready beadlocks on my daily driven 4Runner for a year, then swapped them to my daily driven FJ40 for like two years where they're still mounted, and have a little experience with other sets of beadlocks outside of streetable trucks.



Few notes:
-Beadlocks should be easy to balance, they are small compared to the tire and machined so should be very evenly distributed weight at a small diameter. Your tire causes 100x more balance issues. My 35s on my beadlocks needed 2oz of weight to balance (using stick on weighs on the inside).

-DOT stuff, lots of people say how illegal they are and stuff. I have yet to see an actual law saying they are illegal. Some company even had a cash challenge for awhile to show them a law where beadlocks are illegal. I have driven my 4runner and FJ around Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, Nevada, California, etc. and no one even glanced twice at the beadlocks. And mine stand out with fat rock rings, not the slim type that most poser locks have. There are also a few brands that are explicitly "DOT Approved" or whatever, but as I understand it that does not mean that "non-approved" ones are illegal.

-Some tire shops are *****y (ie Discount Tire) about balancing them. I went to Big O and they have no issue touching them. Idk if they would install them, but it's easy to install your own tires.

-Bolt maintenance isn't a big issue, I just anti seize the bolts and check them occasionally. When I daily drove on beadlocks for a few years I initially was more anal and would check them a lot, now I almost never check them. I've never had a bolt get loose or back out, over thousands of street miles and a couple hundred race miles.

-I got beadlocks because it was cheaper than getting a locker and regearing etc. etc. and I did a lot of snow wheeling at the time. With beadlocks alone and no other modifications I could go further in snow than my buddy's with dual locked solid axle tacomas. If you think going to 10psi or high single digits in snow is fine, then you probably don't need them. I blew a couple beads at 8psi before in the snow, and like I said still didn't get the traction I wanted. With beadlocks I don't even bother airing down now unless I'm dropping to 4psi or lower, and it's common to go <1psi. The rim crushing the tire is ultimately the limiting factor in airing down (which I can speak from experience trying to jump a rock ledge at 4psi and bending a wheel).

Are they an expensive "mod"? Yea. Are the worth it? Unless you plan to rip around the dunes or sand at low single digit pressures probably not... With that said I think the beadlock "look" is really cool, but personally I'll never buy the poser fake ones. I've had 10x Trail Ready's now, both in 15s and 17s and no issues at all and really liked them. Debating what my next pair will be for my new buggy, though Trail Ready is hard to pass up, plus are 100% cast to machined in the USA.

I'll just add that it took me and a buddy (who has done beadlocks many times previously on his Jeeps) six hours to mount five beadlocks (Fuel Anza D116) on my 40x13.5x17 Cooper STT Pro's that will be going on 4Runner this week.

It was quite the task, BUT I LOVED EVERY MOMENT OF IT. I love doing modifications. I have no problem spending time working on my truck. Cant wait to be out crawling thru the rocks on my beadlocks

What wheels and tires are those? Looks great!

thanks... all info in my build thread.

a couple of things to know. these are 33" tires. you will have trouble getting them to fit without rubbing unless you run special upper control arms and or lower control arms.

these wheels will not fit with the tundra brake upgrade, they are just the stock spare wheel. I mentioned it in my thread but I'm a lot happier now that I undid my tundra brake upgrade. the stock sized calipers have a much firmer pedal and I would not run the tundra calipers again. just my opinion.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3267654-post126.html

you also might want to take a look at this thread. I'm running these LCA's

Solo Motorsports stock length LCA's will soon be a thing!!!!