[97Cruiser40th]

I have noticed a fuel leak in the front fuel line (filter to engine) in my 99 Highlander. Appears some butcher stubbed in line I assume since had issue with seized line at filter.

I bought OEM line from filter to engine but unable to find DIY to replace. Scoured forum, internet, You Tube and FSM (granted it for my 2002 runner) and must not be using correct search criteria. Has anyone replaced the full line and has pics and detailed steps? Where does connect to motor and what needs come off to get to that on motor?

If its deep into motor and have to remove intakes etc I want to make sure I have all necessary parts on hand.

Thanks in advance

[mtbtim]

Since you have the replacement line, it shouldn't be hard for you to follow it from the filter towards the engine and find where you need to break the connection and replace that section of fuel line. It shouldn't be that hard because there's plenty of room available between the drivetrain and the body on the driver side of the vehicle to spy where the line runs.

Definitely use flare nut wrenches to handle this job. Fuel line connections need to be very tight to be leak free. To assist in a leak free connection, a dab of motor oil on the flare tubing end is recommended by the factory service manual. If you don't own a set of flare nut wrenches yet, this is a nice set that I own from GearWrench: GearWrench 81911 6 Piece Flex Flare Nut Wrench Set Metric - - Amazon.com The flex head capability makes them more functional than regular flare nut wrenches.

The video below is for swapping out the fuel filter on our rigs but I think it will help you out with your project.

[Kanoe]

I assume you are talking about just replacing the hardline? If so...

It attaches to the filter under the drivers seat as you know. In the engine bay the hard line transitions to a rubber line just inboard and down from the charcoal canister using a similar flare nut set up to the filter. (drivers side). You should be able to undo the 2 ends and then work the old line out. I think it is held into plastic clips but not certain. Then work the new one in the same way the old one came out.

My knowledge is more 3rz but I am fairly certain this fuel line is the same on the V6 up to that point. I'd tape up the ends of the new hardline before you go pushing it around in there to keep any dirt out.

Good luck.

[brillo_76]

I changed that line on a 1997 v6 5 speed. It does come out and you can remove it up out of the engine compartment. Granted you may have to wiggle and jiggle and remove a few hoses etc.

Tim's video should greatly assist.

Super soak those flare nuts for a few days in in the rust belt. The engine compartment side should come loose with good flare wrenches. The filter may not. I ended up cutting mine off and replacing the OEM fuel filter at the same time.

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[97Cruiser40th]

Thanks for the quick replies folks. This makes me more at ease with tackling myself and that there are no other deeper touch points of the line like the FPR or fuel rail or have to remove intakes etc.

I have part on order and pick up today so not sure how its fitted and presume its preformed as the dealer couldnt tell me when I ordered. They estimate a 2-2.5 hour shop charge for the work if I was to have dealer do the work.

While I am not in rust belt the truck came from one and I broke every rule buying this thing but deal is done. Sad part is it "passed" a safety inspection for that state with smell of gas and visible leaking gas.

Tim - yours was the first DIY I viewed cuz thought this was simple filter change until I saw the hack and the leaking gas. Yes I do have a full set of flare wrenches.

[mtbtim]

Originally Posted by 97Cruiser40th

Thanks for the quick replies folks. This makes me more at ease with tackling myself and that there are no other deeper touch points of the line like the FPR or fuel rail or have to remove intakes etc.

I have part on order and pick up today so not sure how its fitted and presume its preformed as the dealer couldnt tell me when I ordered. They estimate a 2-2.5 hour shop charge for the work if I was to have dealer do the work.

While I am not in rust belt the truck came from one and I broke every rule buying this thing but deal is done. Sad part is it "passed" a safety inspection for that state with smell of gas and visible leaking gas.

Tim - yours was the first DIY I viewed cuz thought this was simple filter change until I saw the hack and the leaking gas. Yes I do have a full set of flare wrenches.

What a joke. 2-2.5 hours to replace a freaking fuel line. That's highway robbery. Glad you've decided to tackle this yourself. My local dealer now charges $200/hour so that would be a $400+ for anyone in my area that needed a fuel line replacement.

[BrianK14]

Just did this job, and I concur with all of the above. It was a bit tricky getting the new line in place. Easier if you have a helper. And the plastic clips will be brittle and tend to break on you. Overall, should take you about an hour. Good time to replace the fuel filter as well.

[97Cruiser40th]

Picked up part and all preformed. Ill tackle over Xmas holiday if weather holds out. I got quotes from $447 to $554 and they said thats "estimate" cuz they dont know what to expect and likely will be higher.

Saving money on this job to tackle what I think are bad axle seals though nothing is visibly leaking, havent pulled drums yet. Having the hard bang, Feels like seized/stuck parking brake when breaks free, when engage after sitting.

This dealer has pissed me off with all they missed and they "claim" to have replaced LBJ's in order to pass safety. Im not so confident after all the misses they were replaced. I really feel like such a newbie and got taken with this truck and I have bought A LOT of cars recently.

[Mgyver1]

Do you have the part number by chance for that fuel line running from the filter forward?

[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by Mgyver1

Do you have the part number by chance for that fuel line running from the filter forward?

Which year is your rig? They should all be the same.
However, would verify my 97 5 speed v6
Part number
77251-3D140 line from front filter to engine flex line

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[Mgyver1]

Originally Posted by brillo_76

Which year is your rig? They should all be the same.
However, would verify my 97 5 speed v6
Part number
77251-3D140 line from front filter to engine flex line

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Perfect! Thank you so much. It’s for a 2000 which should work.

[97Cruiser40th]

Originally Posted by Mgyver1

Perfect! Thank you so much. It’s for a 2000 which should work.

Sorry man, yes thats the correct part # and I traced line yesterday and compared the 2 and it appears correct. Team is right that replied not much space to work but accessible and I dont see how this is 2.5-3 hour job for a Toyota tech.

[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by 97Cruiser40th

Sorry man, yes thats the correct part # and I traced line yesterday and compared the 2 and it appears correct. Team is right that replied not much space to work but accessible and I dont see how this is 2.5-3 hour job for a Toyota tech.

Well the Toyota techs are like this in most dealerships. One master tech that tells everyone what to do and the person that works in your car. I found bolts in my backseat when they did my Camry strut replacements as I can leave bolts out for free. When I brought it in to have that done. They said it was never here before. I said yes as I do my own maintenance. As you can see why with a seat bolt missing. :/

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[97Cruiser40th]

Well replaced front fuel line only to find both lines were compromised. I had issue with rear line and had to take one for team and have shop do it which Im not happy about but its done and confirmed that was source of the smell.

They also did perform a comprehensive PPI and I must say mechanically nothing surprising at all other than some PM which I expected. Only new to me was 1 of axle boots leaking at band clamp.

[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by 97Cruiser40th

Well replaced front fuel line only to find both lines were compromised. I had issue with rear line and had to take one for team and have shop do it which Im not happy about but its done and confirmed that was source of the smell.



They also did perform a comprehensive PPI and I must say mechanically nothing surprising at all other than some PM which I expected. Only new to me was 1 of axle boots leaking at band clamp.

Happened to me too. On my 97 5 speed. Never was removed and when I pulled my gas tank.

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