[josh3rd]

Members I apologize before hand, lol. I'm new and have been doing my best to search and not seem like a newb but here I go:

Yesterday I just bought a 2000 4runner limited v6 with optional 4wd for $1000 bucks. It has 233k on it and the previous owner has meticulous maintenance records. He always changed the oil. Not always at 3000miles but from 3k-5k miles he did. He had the timing belt changed/fixed, new catalytic converter, New exhaust, new axles (not sure front or back...gotta read again), new battery, tune ups, the trans fluid is like it is in the bottle (clear and a reddish color) and the oil must just been changed as well. There may be some other things I'm forgetting I'm sure but I'll add it later.

Some issues have popped up that I didn't notice upon pre buying inspection.

The power locks don't work. There isn't a key fob, just a normal key. The key will open the locked doors but won't lock the doors. So I have to physically push each lock down to lock it. The power lock switches on the driver and passenger doors will unlock but not lock doors and my tail gate lock that is outside of the vehicle is missing.

The lights on the radio don't come on but it plays. I checked all fuses and see none that are burnt out, and oh yeah, I got short arms and hate how the radio is below the climate control system.

I have a fog light switch but don't see no fog lights. Not sure if they're below the bumper (the rectangle light box that has an orange bulb in there).

One thing I noticed is that once a year he replaced the pads and rotors. So I came to this forum looking for reasons why. Obviously I read about the brake swap/upgrades and I read a lot of how to do it. Now some of the posts are old but none the less very helpful.

Ok if you would obligue me please:

I want to do the brake upgrade/swap thing. I don't want to pay boo koo dollars and I feel so confused like a virgin on prom night, when I look on Amazon, Napa, eBay and what have you, looking for parts, kits, right sizes and so on. I seen some links and some worked and didn't work. Now I know that there is 2 options...199mm and a 231mm. I seen some threads saying 231 is the way to go but they needed spacers. I don't want that. I want to bolt and go. I don't care if I have to cut a dust shield but that's it. I just need links for rotors, calipers, full pads no levels on em and etc. I hope I'm not beating a dead horse by asking this but seriously I just want the right stuff the first time around.

So if possible can you guys post actual working links to the products that's most suggested to get? FYI I have factory 16 inch rims, 6 lugs (that's what the cap looks like anyway), and the rim is a 5 star type of rim.

Now I don't plan on towing a trailer or hauling nothing except myself, my Presa and family. I am not planning on going 4 wheeling or lift kitting it up. Now understand that I said I'm not planning but as everyone knows s**t happens, lol.

Fellas thanks a bunch before hand. I'll go take some pics and post asap

sites: just read one of my calipers: it said s13am maybe? Any clue or help to anyone reading my post?

[Rancho5]

3rd Gen Informational Threads --- A MUST READ For New Members

[T4topher]

Originally Posted by josh3rd

Members I apologize before hand, lol. I'm new and have been doing my best to search and not seem like a newb but here I go:

Yesterday I just bought a 2000 4runner limited v6 with optional 4wd for $1000 bucks. It has 233k on it and the previous owner has meticulous maintenance records. He always changed the oil. Not always at 3000miles but from 3k-5k miles he did. He had the timing belt changed/fixed, new catalytic converter, New exhaust, new axles (not sure front or back...gotta read again), new battery, tune ups, the trans fluid is like it is in the bottle (clear and a reddish color) and the oil must just been changed as well. There may be some other things I'm forgetting I'm sure but I'll add it later.

Some issues have popped up that I didn't notice upon pre buying inspection.

The power locks don't work. There isn't a key fob, just a normal key. The key will open the locked doors but won't lock the doors. So I have to physically push each lock down to lock it. The power lock switches on the driver and passenger doors will unlock but not lock doors and my tail gate lock that is outside of the vehicle is missing.

The lights on the radio don't come on but it plays. I checked all fuses and see none that are burnt out, and oh yeah, I got short arms and hate how the radio is below the climate control system.

I have a fog light switch but don't see no fog lights. Not sure if they're below the bumper (the rectangle light box that has an orange bulb in there).

One thing I noticed is that once a year he replaced the pads and rotors. So I came to this forum looking for reasons why. Obviously I read about the brake swap/upgrades and I read a lot of how to do it. Now some of the posts are old but none the less very helpful.

Ok if you would obligue me please:

I want to do the brake upgrade/swap thing. I don't want to pay boo koo dollars and I feel so confused like a virgin on prom night, when I look on Amazon, Napa, eBay and what have you, looking for parts, kits, right sizes and so on. I seen some links and some worked and didn't work. Now I know that there is 2 options...199mm and a 231mm. I seen some threads saying 231 is the way to go but they needed spacers. I don't want that. I want to bolt and go. I don't care if I have to cut a dust shield but that's it. I just need links for rotors, calipers, full pads no levels on em and etc. I hope I'm not beating a dead horse by asking this but seriously I just want the right stuff the first time around.

So if possible can you guys post actual working links to the products that's most suggested to get? FYI I have factory 16 inch rims, 6 lugs (that's what the cap looks like anyway), and the rim is a 5 star type of rim.

Now I don't plan on towing a trailer or hauling nothing except myself, my Presa and family. I am not planning on going 4 wheeling or lift kitting it up. Now understand that I said I'm not planning but as everyone knows s**t happens, lol.

Fellas thanks a bunch before hand. I'll go take some pics and post asap

OEM 5 stars should fit 231 calipers.. Also if it were me and I were trying to do this upgrade as low budget as possible I’d go to the junk yard for the calipers. Here is a video that will be helpful I think..

YouTube

[I_bRAD]

Honestly, if you've got new brakes already, don't plan on towing or putting on bigger tires and by the looks of it you live in a relatively flat area- save your money. Maybe spend it on some factory ball joints instead.

[T4R2014]

If it is eating front rotors, then look at the rear brakes first. They are likely out of adjustment. Too many people installing Tundra brakes as a bandaid to the actual problem.

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by josh3rd

The power locks don't work. There isn't a key fob, just a normal key. The key will open the locked doors but won't lock the doors. So I have to physically push each lock down to lock it. The power lock switches on the driver and passenger doors will unlock but not lock doors and my tail gate lock that is outside of the vehicle is missing.

The lights on the radio don't come on but it plays. I checked all fuses and see none that are burnt out, and oh yeah, I got short arms and hate how the radio is below the climate control system.

I have a fog light switch but don't see no fog lights. Not sure if they're below the bumper (the rectangle light box that has an orange bulb in there).

One thing I noticed is that once a year he replaced the pads and rotors. So I came to this forum looking for reasons why.

Locks - the rear hatch lock cylinder can fall into the truck if the tabs break on the license plate garnish. You will have to remove the interior trim panel to get in there to see what's wrong. Can you roll the rear window up/down with the switch on the dash?

Radio - probably time to upgrade to a newer radio anyway, eh?

Fog lights - OEM fogs fit in the small round holes right next to the turn signals on the front bumper. Look under there from behind to see what may or may not be there.

Brakes - if the previous owner was hard on the brakes and used cheap parts, they would be getting brake pulsations quickly after each replacement... Using good quality parts (pads, mainly) and being careful with the brakes should keep that from happening too much to you. Only upgrade if you feel the need...

-Charlie

[Jidaran]

$1000? Parts trucks go for almost that much.

[weekendclimber]

@mtbtim !! Go to youtube and lookup "Timmy the Toolman". Scroll through the list of videos there and learn nearly anything you want to know about these trucks.

[hounddogman]

It's not a real popular opinion around here but I don't think there's anything wrong our original brake calipers and rotors . I bought my 4Runner in 2013 and have put about 40,000 miles on it and have not had to touch the brakes yet . The PO gave me a handwritten log book that noted adjusting the rears a couple of months before I bought it and new Toyota front pads and turning the rotors about 20,000 miles earlier . So that's pushing 60K for Toyota pads ! And that's living in the mountains with 33 inch tires for the last 20K. The ABS is a whole'nuther issue .

[sleepydad]

@josh3rd

if you want a keyfob?

I also have a 2000 lim and I can tell you about the locks, and I can tell you why they have not been fixed.

for a keyfob to work all the door lock actuators must work, if any of them are faulty no keyfob.

I'm going to guess based on your description that the drivers side block is messed up. it's not a cheap part and it's a pain to replace but it's not impossible to do it. The reason this happens is because toyota put the relays for the door locks inside the drivers side block assembly.

this thing right here in this post.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2851271-post15.html

if I remember correctly all the locks will unlock but not locks and that is what your describing. I'm guessing all your door lock actuators are working, I had to replace one of mine and just hope and pray that all of your are working. they suck to replace.

anyways... replace that block assembly and your locks will function again... and if your lucky you can then program a keyfob.

edit: if your up for a pick n pull parts run... you can try a salvage block assembly. risky but way cheaper than new.

[sleepydad]

Originally Posted by hounddogman

It's not a real popular opinion around here but I don't think there's anything wrong our original brake calipers and rotors . I bought my 4Runner in 2013 and have put about 40,000 miles on it and have not had to touch the brakes yet . The PO gave me a handwritten log book that noted adjusting the rears a couple of months before I bought it and new Toyota front pads and turning the rotors about 20,000 miles earlier . So that's pushing 60K for Toyota pads ! And that's living in the mountains with 33 inch tires for the last 20K. P.S. The ABS is a whole'nuther issue .

I'm swapping back to stock calipers/rotors/pads this summer because I'm now of the opinion that the tundra brake upgrade is meh.

[WWRD99]

Originally Posted by hounddogman

It's not a real popular opinion around here but I don't think there's anything wrong our original brake calipers and rotors . I bought my 4Runner in 2013 and have put about 40,000 miles on it and have not had to touch the brakes yet . The PO gave me a handwritten log book that noted adjusting the rears a couple of months before I bought it and new Toyota front pads and turning the rotors about 20,000 miles earlier . So that's pushing 60K for Toyota pads ! And that's living in the mountains with 33 inch tires for the last 20K. The ABS is a whole'nuther issue .

I would love a switch to turn off the abs when I want to...hate it in snow...always have.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Riceye]

Originally Posted by hounddogman

It's not a real popular opinion around here but I don't think there's anything wrong our original brake calipers and rotors . I bought my 4Runner in 2013 and have put about 40,000 miles on it and have not had to touch the brakes yet . The PO gave me a handwritten log book that noted adjusting the rears a couple of months before I bought it and new Toyota front pads and turning the rotors about 20,000 miles earlier . So that's pushing 60K for Toyota pads ! And that's living in the mountains with 33 inch tires for the last 20K. The ABS is a whole'nuther issue .

I'm in agreement, here. The only other thing I can add is regarding the bell cranks and self adjustment hardware. You live in the rust belt, as do I. I have found that the entire bell crank assembly at both rear wheels will perform flawlessly if serviced and lubricated at least once per year. Ignored, they will rust up and no longer operated properly, and the effectiveness of the rear brakes will gradually diminish. The fact that the change is so gradual, you may not even notice the loss of braking until you really need it. In addition, an annual inspection of the rear brakes will allow you an opportunity to inspect the rear axle seals for leakage. They will eventually need replacing, guaranteed. Check the rear axle breather (or install the breather extension mod) as this is a major cause for premature leakage.

I have a manual transmission and use my hand brake frequently. Automatic trans owners use it far less, I'm sure. My frequent use of the hand brake also exercises the bell cranks and adjustment components. Probably a good idea to use it once in a while just as you would your 4x4 running gear.

[alumarine]

I agree with @hounddogman and @Riceye about the stock brakes being fine.
I often tow a 3200 lb trailer (it has surge brakes) and never had trouble braking.

The ABS on mine sucks in winter and is dangerous.
I disabled it.
I don't need it for non winter driving so have never re-enabled it.

[josh3rd]

Originally Posted by Jidaran

$1000? Parts trucks go for almost that much.

Dig it and it's inspected with all the things done that I mentioned in my post. I hope I am just lucky and not a dope