12-12-2019, 06:07 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Odessa/Midland TX
Posts: 3,711
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Odessa/Midland TX
Posts: 3,711
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It's good that you didn't chose the reman engine with aftermarket parts: Aftermarket parts are garbage and I've seen those engines starting to burn oil in less than 100K.
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12-12-2019, 07:07 PM
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#17
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 595
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissanh
It's good that you didn't chose the reman engine with aftermarket parts: Aftermarket parts are garbage and I've seen those engines starting to burn oil in less than 100K.
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I know many folks on this board prescribe to the "OEM or bust" mind set. I'm not one of them.
I assembled my motor with Permatex sealants, Mitsuboshi timing belt, Aisin branded water pump, GMB rollers, some Felpro gaskets, off brand valve cover gasket set, Off brand injector rebuild kits, not a Toyota clutch, calipers and rotors from Oreilly's, radiator from Autozone, radiator hoses from Napa, NGK spark plugs and blue wires. I have Ford Tranny fluid in the tranny, Valvoline in the diffs, Mobile 1 in the oil pan, and the glycol jugs say Prestone on them.
I'll use a torque wrench for the flywheel, clutch basket, and crank pulley but haven't used it for anything else and don't plan to.
I've run a few Toyota's up past 300K and several other brand rigs up past 250K.
I don't have any fears about the longevity of my work or the materials I've chosen.
What do you think about aftermarket metal 22R timing chain guides compared to OEM plastic ones?
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Owned 82, 83, 87 pickup, 98, 99 SR5 4runner
Currently own a 98 SR5, 5spd, 4x4, e-locker, no sunroof. 2012 LTD with the normal options.
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12-12-2019, 09:05 PM
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#18
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Southern California (please don't hold it against me)
Posts: 417
Real Name: michael
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Southern California (please don't hold it against me)
Posts: 417
Real Name: michael
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I have done 2 head gasket and 1 engine rebuild on 3.4 4runners over the couple of years I found the job not all that bad I always sent my heads out to the machine shop it was easier than trying to figure out the shim and bucket system and I know the valves would be done to. Along with the standard tools I recommend getting or borrowing torque wrenches, Harbor Freight puts them on sale from time to time I got the 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 the crank shaft nut is usual higher than most 1/2 Torque Wrenchs. Another tool U will need is a Die for the exhaust nuts. It helps to clean them up before putting them back together also there is one exhaust stud on the passenger side that always gives me trouble I think the Die it's 6 mm x1.25. Expect to replace at least a couple of nuts and maybe a stud.
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12-12-2019, 10:59 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Odessa/Midland TX
Posts: 3,711
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Odessa/Midland TX
Posts: 3,711
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Let me tell you about the GMB stuff and 555 ball joints:
I installed GMB U-joints into a Hilux front pinion joint and didn't even used 4wd (it got free locking hubs). It just started to show severe play even not being used. I installed a GMB tensioner bearing into my 92 corolla and it lasted just 50K.
Then 555 Ball joints marketed by many auto part stores. Those 555 won't last no more than 20K miles and a friend of mine had to redo it due to LBJ failure in 20K miles.
Mitsuboshi is the OEM T-belt belt supplier for toyota, so does AISIN and Denso for mechanical and electrical parts respectively. I am doing the rear axle bearings/seals and I stick to all OEM parts though the bearing is 5X expensive than NACHI or KOYO.
Aftermarket (not OEM supplier) is simply garbage and dangerous: There are numerous examples we all have experienced: Just don't waste money on cheap parts and do the job over and over again.
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12-12-2019, 11:08 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: ROSWELL GA
Posts: 18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: ROSWELL GA
Posts: 18
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I would suggest to make yourself life easier, replace the truck, sell or part-out.
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02-06-2020, 03:20 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 8
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Gives me hope. My wife’s 95 2nd gen just blew a gasket. Hydrolocked with coolant, now cleared out. Fortunately everything seems to be moving. Looking forward to the work.
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02-07-2020, 09:00 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 1
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do you guys not get motors from japan where your at? i can pick up one with around 40k miles on it for 800 out here in California
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06-01-2020, 09:53 AM
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#23
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 48
Real Name: Adam
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 48
Real Name: Adam
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I recently repaired a blown spark plug and am questioning what oil I should be putting in the crankcase. Right now I'm running Royal Purple 5w-30, but for some reason I feel like I'm just throwing money away. Also, it's kinda hard to find right now in the 5qt jugs. What do ya'll recommend? Probably doing oil change tomorrow morning.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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'01 4wd SR5 w/ lots of FUN left to give
‘05 SR5 Sport
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06-01-2020, 10:22 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,599
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,599
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I've used non-OEM parts successfully as well. However, I do know that OEM is always good, and aftermarket not always good.
As for the timing chain guides (22R-E too?), I've owned one 1988 4Runner with a 22R-E and never did anything to the timing chain area. Parted ways with it at 305k. I don't know what type of guide it had.
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06-01-2020, 11:49 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,077
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlehr25
do you guys not get motors from japan where your at? i can pick up one with around 40k miles on it for 800 out here in California
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Put some "air quotes" around that 40K mile thing. They all claim to have very low miles, but usually, they're not tracked that carefully, they just get a container full of motors from Japan. And rely on the myth that Japanese cars are not driven much, obsessively maintained, and then junked for no reason at all with practically no wear and tear on them.
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'99 Highlander 5-spd manual e-locker no-running-board
SS 3" suspension lift/1" body lift/33" tires/'Snowflake' TRD Taco wheels/231mm Tundra brakes/bumpers/armor/sliders/winch/Sherpa Matterhorn rack
Manual front hubs, NWF Eco-crawler transfer case doubler, second gas tank
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06-01-2020, 05:25 PM
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#26
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamdmc
I recently repaired a blown spark plug and am questioning what oil I should be putting in the crankcase. Right now I'm running Royal Purple 5w-30, but for some reason I feel like I'm just throwing money away. Also, it's kinda hard to find right now in the 5qt jugs. What do ya'll recommend? Probably doing oil change tomorrow morning.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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Royal Purple makes solid products. I had a harsh shift between 1-2 on my transmission and switching to their fluids smoothed it out so nice! Their injector cleaners are also the best I've ever used, I can actually document a change in idle smoothness where the other stuff (Lucas, Techron, etc.) I have no idea if they even work.
The question then becomes, are you receiving any benefit from running Royal Purple motor oil? That is a hard question to answer. Our engines don't burn oil, don't leak too bad and don't throw rods so there may not be much of a benefit other than reduced changing intervals and peace of mind. It's only roughly $15 more each oil change so perhaps that alone is worth the extra cost. I do have to say that their bearing load tests are very impressive though. The oil will actually polish and smooth the bearing surface, not scratch it!
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09-30-2020, 03:12 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Western MA
Posts: 3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Western MA
Posts: 3
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I'm in the same boat!
I have owned my Y2K SR5 from 42K it now has 220K on the dial. I have religiously maintained this vehicle. 5K oil changes with Mobile 1, timing belts, tune ups, tires and this January put a brand new rear end in. Yes you read that right we had zero luck finding a used rear end that had the 4:30 ratio with electric shift so I bit the bullet and went new. She is not my daily driver but I love her with all my heart. I had the radiator replaced a month ago and noticed when I got home on my receipt the garage changed my oil and dumped crappy 'synthetic blend 5/20" into it. I started it a few days later and it smoked and I tell you I flipped. This truck has been solid in the 17 years I have owned it and now it looks like I will be replacing the head gasket. I ripped into the garage that did this but with the age/#s they claim they did nothing wrong and of course... I'm a girl so they think I am stupid. I have a friend who manages a Ford dealer and called a favor, he did a compression test and she is firing fine. That doesn't solve the issue of the smoke and it only smokes if I don't drive it every day. I refuse to pay dealer prices and with the Covid BS everyone is looking to recoup their losses on lost business. I know I'm not going to get out of this one cheap but having put the money into the rear end, frame and recent tune up I'm having a hard time justifying dumping or parting this old girl out.
Wish me luck - I've got two places to contact for the rebuild - hoping one over the other since its a mechanic who has a regular job and has worked on cars his whole life. I can leave it for weeks if he needs it as I have the kid sister on the road "08 Avalon"... classy lady and all but there's something about climbing behind the wheel of the 4Runner you don't get from a sedan.
I'm in Western Massachusetts if anyone has a good mechanic they can recommend!
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There's always next year...
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09-30-2020, 03:25 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacePointBeachBum
I have owned my Y2K SR5 from 42K it now has 220K on the dial. I have religiously maintained this vehicle. 5K oil changes with Mobile 1, timing belts, tune ups, tires and this January put a brand new rear end in. Yes you read that right we had zero luck finding a used rear end that had the 4:30 ratio with electric shift so I bit the bullet and went new. She is not my daily driver but I love her with all my heart. I had the radiator replaced a month ago and noticed when I got home on my receipt the garage changed my oil and dumped crappy 'synthetic blend 5/20" into it. I started it a few days later and it smoked and I tell you I flipped. This truck has been solid in the 17 years I have owned it and now it looks like I will be replacing the head gasket. I ripped into the garage that did this but with the age/#s they claim they did nothing wrong and of course... I'm a girl so they think I am stupid. I have a friend who manages a Ford dealer and called a favor, he did a compression test and she is firing fine. That doesn't solve the issue of the smoke and it only smokes if I don't drive it every day. I refuse to pay dealer prices and with the Covid BS everyone is looking to recoup their losses on lost business. I know I'm not going to get out of this one cheap but having put the money into the rear end, frame and recent tune up I'm having a hard time justifying dumping or parting this old girl out.
Wish me luck - I've got two places to contact for the rebuild - hoping one over the other since its a mechanic who has a regular job and has worked on cars his whole life. I can leave it for weeks if he needs it as I have the kid sister on the road "08 Avalon"... classy lady and all but there's something about climbing behind the wheel of the 4Runner you don't get from a sedan.
I'm in Western Massachusetts if anyone has a good mechanic they can recommend!
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Sounds like you still haven't confirmed that it needs head gaskets. If your compression test was good, then I would suggest a cylinder leak down test. It could be leaking valve stem seals allowing the thinner oil through easier.
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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09-30-2020, 11:12 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 1,418
Real Name: Keith
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Santa Monica, CA
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Real Name: Keith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
Sounds like you still haven't confirmed that it needs head gaskets. If your compression test was good, then I would suggest a cylinder leak down test. It could be leaking valve stem seals allowing the thinner oil through easier.
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This was my thought as well.
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97 4R SR5, 4WD/Elock, 3.4, 5spd. OME881/890 springs/OME shocks, 265/70/16 BFG AT/KO2.
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10-01-2020, 10:16 AM
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#30
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Lula, Georgia
Posts: 16
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Lula, Georgia
Posts: 16
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I personally would drop in another engine. It is a bit of money if you don't do it yourself, however as long as the rest of the runner is good as far as frame, suspension and trans wise it will last a long time, and is still cheaper and will have more reliability that a new car.
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