02-15-2017, 01:20 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Need advice on body work/ rust removal
I'm putting a lot of time and money into this build for my son. I can no longer ignore the elephant in the room. I don't know much about where to begin here or what is available in terms of panels, replacements, materials etc. I'm a greenhorn welder so I'm not sure this is a job I can handle but I always prefer to do things myself where I can. If someone could take a look at this mess and point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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96 4 runner 3.4L SR5, Borla Touring catback, Rough Country 3 " Suspension (new kit), Powerstop Extreme Towing brake kit, B&M super cooler and Koyo radiators in series, 31" Michelin LTX A-2 tires, Barnes 4x4 heavy duty rear Differential cover. Taco tie rods and upper and lower ball joints
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02-15-2017, 01:35 PM
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#2
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The right direction is South to buy a rust free truck... Those pictures made me cringe.
Sorry, but I don't know that it is economical to replace those parts of the truck or not. That's a lot of welding and in a difficult place too with the rocker panels being totally gone. Especially if you're new to welding. How does the frame look if the body is that bad?
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2008 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Salsa Red, DD, Mostly Stock, 89k miles
2001 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4x4 - Not Stock, Lifted, Armored, 291k miles
1987 Toyota Supra N/A - Stock, 2nd Owner, 92k miles
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02-15-2017, 01:43 PM
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#3
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For the wheel lip fender area clean up the rust and treat those spots. Then use some Bondo to fill the holes, sand and then paint to match. Then cover them up with fender flares; either some oem ones from someone in the classifieds or some bushwhacker ones. For the rockers there's a way to do it without welding. You can cut the bad stuff out and, using a rivet gun bend new sheet metal in and and use some seam sealer.
This is just a general description. I can get into more detail if you have more questions.
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2001 Sport Edition 4WD, IJM, Auto, DD
1999 SR5 4WD, Millennium Silver Metallic, 5 speed, E-locker, Trail Rig
1998 SR5 4WD Custom bodywork from hitting a median. Beater truck.
1999 Limited 4WD No longer a vehicle. Now it's in parts and stored away.
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02-15-2017, 01:49 PM
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#4
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I'd buy a doner truck with a blown engine. Cut it up & replace panels. Or transfer motor to the doner if body & frame are better.
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
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02-15-2017, 02:11 PM
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#5
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I'm with
@ Unner
on this one.
Forget trying to worry about the body for now. What does the *frame* look like?
You are wasting all your time and money if you are investing and fixing up your sons truck if it has a rusted frame that makes it *DANGEROUS* to drive in the event of a collision.
Remember, safety first.
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02-15-2017, 02:15 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Carova Beach OBX
Age: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unner
The right direction is South to buy a rust free truck... Those pictures made me cringe.
Sorry, but I don't know that it is economical to replace those parts of the truck or not. That's a lot of welding and in a difficult place too with the rocker panels being totally gone. Especially if you're new to welding. How does the frame look if the body is that bad?
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That is the only rust on the body. The frame has some rust but nothing critical. This was the exact spot where a shop did a repair from an accident 7 years ago.
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96 4 runner 3.4L SR5, Borla Touring catback, Rough Country 3 " Suspension (new kit), Powerstop Extreme Towing brake kit, B&M super cooler and Koyo radiators in series, 31" Michelin LTX A-2 tires, Barnes 4x4 heavy duty rear Differential cover. Taco tie rods and upper and lower ball joints
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02-15-2017, 02:20 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN4runnerman
For the wheel lip fender area clean up the rust and treat those spots. Then use some Bondo to fill the holes, sand and then paint to match. Then cover them up with fender flares; either some oem ones from someone in the classifieds or some bushwhacker ones. For the rockers there's a way to do it without welding. You can cut the bad stuff out and, using a rivet gun bend new sheet metal in and and use some seam sealer.
This is just a general description. I can get into more detail if you have more questions.
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thanks for the practical advise. Like I said This the only rust on the truck. Is it possible to get new rockers? If I can't weld it I'll get my buddy to do it.
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96 4 runner 3.4L SR5, Borla Touring catback, Rough Country 3 " Suspension (new kit), Powerstop Extreme Towing brake kit, B&M super cooler and Koyo radiators in series, 31" Michelin LTX A-2 tires, Barnes 4x4 heavy duty rear Differential cover. Taco tie rods and upper and lower ball joints
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02-15-2017, 02:24 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popsmckracken
This was the exact spot where a shop did a repair from an accident 7 years ago.
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You can see the bondo from the previous repair. Rust may just be working it's way out from the repaired areas. Maybe not done properly if it was only 7yrs ago. My midwest truck has almost zero body rust, but I do have passenger side frame rust next to the muffler which I am addressing soon.
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02-15-2017, 02:24 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popsmckracken
That is the only rust on the body. The frame has some rust but nothing critical. This was the exact spot where a shop did a repair from an accident 7 years ago.
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That is a ton of work...requires cutting it out and patching in new panel patches....then body work to make it look clean...that have to be cut to fit....not aware of any "aftermarket patch panels" like classic vehicles.
I don't know how some of you dont have a literal revolution against your road departments and states. They are costing their citizens 100's of millions in travel costs. They started that salt crap in WA just a couple years ago....and it is showing noticeably...and they are dumping more and more salt every year. F'n idiots!!!!
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02-15-2017, 02:34 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reelamin
That is a ton of work...requires cutting it out and patching in new panel patches....then body work to make it look clean...that have to be cut to fit....not aware of any "aftermarket patch panels" like classic vehicles.
I don't know how some of you dont have a literal revolution against your road departments and states. They are costing their citizens 100's of millions in travel costs. They started that salt crap in WA just a couple years ago....and it is showing noticeably...and they are dumping more and more salt every year. F'n idiots!!!!
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Well, this is more a case of a repair that was not done properly. I actually went back to the shop and of course the guy didnt remember me. I told him it was where I had a repair done , keeping quiet about where and he went into a diatribe about how low end shops do this all the time then.... I dropped the bomb on him. He turned all shades of red and blamed it on bad help. haha
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96 4 runner 3.4L SR5, Borla Touring catback, Rough Country 3 " Suspension (new kit), Powerstop Extreme Towing brake kit, B&M super cooler and Koyo radiators in series, 31" Michelin LTX A-2 tires, Barnes 4x4 heavy duty rear Differential cover. Taco tie rods and upper and lower ball joints
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02-15-2017, 02:40 PM
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#11
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Real Name: Scramble
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Elite Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popsmckracken
Well, this is more a case of a repair that was not done properly. I actually went back to the shop and of course the guy didnt remember me. I told him it was where I had a repair done , keeping quiet about where and he went into a diatribe about how low end shops do this all the time then.... I dropped the bomb on him. He turned all shades of red and blamed it on bad help. haha
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That's awesome!
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
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02-15-2017, 03:04 PM
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#12
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scramble
That's awesome!
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Yeah and this is one of those shops with an unpronounceable German name where all the guys wear jump suits and look down their noses at your car if It hasn't qualified on the autobon.
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96 4 runner 3.4L SR5, Borla Touring catback, Rough Country 3 " Suspension (new kit), Powerstop Extreme Towing brake kit, B&M super cooler and Koyo radiators in series, 31" Michelin LTX A-2 tires, Barnes 4x4 heavy duty rear Differential cover. Taco tie rods and upper and lower ball joints
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02-15-2017, 03:38 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popsmckracken
thanks for the practical advise. Like I said This the only rust on the truck. Is it possible to get new rockers? If I can't weld it I'll get my buddy to do it.
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Supposedly this place has rockers. Toyota 4 Runner Body Panels I read about some fitment issues but if you're cutting and welding I don't think it matters much.
After looking over their site they don't list rockers for our years but I bet you could get 2nd gen ones to work. They do have the little dog leg where most of your rust is.
__________________
2001 Sport Edition 4WD, IJM, Auto, DD
1999 SR5 4WD, Millennium Silver Metallic, 5 speed, E-locker, Trail Rig
1998 SR5 4WD Custom bodywork from hitting a median. Beater truck.
1999 Limited 4WD No longer a vehicle. Now it's in parts and stored away.
Last edited by MN4runnerman; 02-15-2017 at 04:16 PM.
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02-15-2017, 10:51 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
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I just ordered Rockers from robin at wolf steel restorations today. 1996-2001Toyota 4 Runner Body Panels
The rockers he sells will need to be modified to fit as they do not include the provision for the pillar. here is a pic of them:
They were $75 per side and $30 for shipping to the US. if you have any questions give Robin a call, He is very cool to talk to and knows what he is talking about.
I will be replacing rockers in a 98 I just bought really cheap. I need a new project. This 4runner also has some frame rot witch is being addressed by a fabrication shop. I will try and do a write up on the rocker replacement... I just need to get 15 posts so I start a thread.
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02-16-2017, 12:34 AM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN4runnerman
For the wheel lip fender area clean up the rust and treat those spots. Then use some Bondo to fill the holes, sand and then paint to match. Then cover them up with fender flares; either some oem ones from someone in the classifieds or some bushwhacker ones. For the rockers there's a way to do it without welding. You can cut the bad stuff out and, using a rivet gun bend new sheet metal in and and use some seam sealer.
This is just a general description. I can get into more detail if you have more questions.
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Sorry, that is just really BAD advice. Plastic filler is not intended to fill holes, nor is it a good way cover rust. Plastic filler has no barrier to moisture, it requires, primer and paint. If you put in a hole, the moisture from the other side will cause it to bubble and blister. That's why you can't patch a radiator with BONDO.
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1989 FJ62 5.3 Chevy, FZJ80 Axles, 4.88's with ARB.
2000 2wd runner, 4 cylinders, yes it IS slow.
1999 4WD SR5 Desert Dune 3.4 351K and counting.
2000 4WD sport 3.4 Elocker <--My son's but I still end up paying.
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