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Old 02-28-2019, 03:36 PM #16
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UPDATE: Might have been solved by IAC cleaning!

UPDATE: After testing my way home last night and way back into work this morning trying to recreate the warm starts after half hour of driving, I havenít seemed to have an issue whether 5, 10, or 15 minutes after shutting off.

Soooo...looks like it was the IAC valve gummed up. Even though it looked pretty darn clean, cleaning it and the TB a tad more seems to have done it. Not celebrating yet, but I think it may be solved! (Bummer it took me that long to get to it. Kept thinking it couldnít be since itís newer and Iíd already cleaned the TB). Glad I asked for all the help when I had just cleaned the IAC and that may have solved it...

If itís not solved, I still have the fuel filter on hand to replace in the next few days regardless.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AntleredRuin View Post
When warm (like after driving for a bit) and then shut off for 10-20 minutes, this check valve slowly fails and completely closes (not just one-way like a check valve should), which lowers fuel pressure. This makes it hard to start, and keeps the idle real low and sketchy for a minute or so, until the valve opens again (due to actual fuel flow, I'm guessing).

Let it cool down for 45 minutes and the check valve fully releases and you get easy starts again.

FYI keep a can of starter fluid on you. If it stalls and dies after a quick errand, you might not be able to restart it without waiting the 45 minutes. Ask me how I know.
The check valve sounds like exactly what it might be if the IAC cleaning proves to not have been the solution. Fuel filter will be my first go to as thatís a simple swap i'm planning on anyways.

And yep, I know how you know! I got stranded like that trying to pump the gas pedal several times before starting and still having no avail, leading me to replace the TPS as I thought was the fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by huski View Post
I have a jumping off point now. I'll report back with findings.
Thanks!
I hope it helps! I was finding threads similar to this all suggesting different things but they all had different solutions haha so I was a bit confused as to what to tackle next. Hopefully this helps you out!


You all have given some great suggestions on other things to check as well! Iíve mostly just read threads for info as it seems all things from 3rd gens have been discussed and researched extensively, but itís so useful to have quick responses for questions that are still a little fuzzy! Thank you all!
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Old 02-28-2019, 04:56 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rorikk View Post
And yep, I know how you know! I got stranded like that trying to pump the gas pedal several times before starting and still having no avail, leading me to replace the TPS as I thought was the fix.
Pumping the gas pedal prior to a start attempt does absolutely nothing good on any port fuel injection vehicle. At best, you just wasted your time and calories. I don't know why people still do this as there hasn't been a new design car or truck sold in America for more than 20 years that pumping the pedal would do anything on, once GM's TBI system was taken out back and shot. At worst, on some systems, doing that tells the computer the TPS is broken and that it should go into limp home mode - making it even harder to start.

The only pedal work that does do something prior to start is flooring the pedal and holding it while attempting to start. This is the universal "clear flood" method and tells the computer to turn the fuel injectors off entirely while cranking to clear a flooded engine. This has been the case on all port fuel systems since at least 1980 and I'm sure even further back.
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Old 11-09-2020, 12:01 AM #18
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Did this issue ever get solved? I had something similar happen to me today after wheeling all weekend and then driving 150 miles on the highway home.

Was running fine, stopped a gas station to fill up, restarted it to move it to a parking spot and went inside. Came out 5 minutes later and it didnít want to start. Giving it gas with low idle kept the engine barely going for 5 seconds then it ran like normal and I drove home another 100 miles fine.
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Old 12-31-2020, 11:50 PM #19
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What year is your 4Runner?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AntleredRuin View Post
I just went through the EXACT same thing a few weeks ago. Turned out to be my fuel pump.
There's a check valve in it that is supposed to keep the fuel in the fuel lines when the truck is shut off, to avoid slow starts.
When warm (like after driving for a bit) and then shut off for 10-20 minutes, this check valve slowly fails and completely closes (not just one-way like a check valve should), which lowers fuel pressure. This makes it hard to start, and keeps the idle real low and sketchy for a minute or so, until the valve opens again (due to actual fuel flow, I'm guessing).
Let it cool down for 45 minutes and the check valve fully releases and you get easy starts again.

FYI keep a can of starter fluid on you. If it stalls and dies after a quick errand, you might not be able to restart it without waiting the 45 minutes. Ask me how I know.
I successfully recreated this 'no start' issue in my driveway, and a spritz of starter fluid got it going again.

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I have a 1997 4Runner that dies upon start after it's hot --
I looked online and didn't see a check valve for a 97 3.4 Liter -- only a fuel pump. If I buy a fuel pump will it have the check valve built in?
Thanks.
ja
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Old 01-01-2021, 02:20 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzarech View Post
I have a 1997 4Runner that dies upon start after it's hot --
I looked online and didn't see a check valve for a 97 3.4 Liter -- only a fuel pump. If I buy a fuel pump will it have the check valve built in?
Thanks.
ja
Look into or search cleaning your Idle Air Control valve that's under the throttle body. There's some videos and write ups on here to help. When hot the valve will stick and not open which kills the engine at a stop or idle.

Also look into cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor, also lots of good photos and writeups on here.

Both of those solutions are basically free (except for a new gasket for the IAC) and waaay less work than replacing a fuel pump. Our DENSO units are known to last 300K easy.
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Old 01-01-2021, 11:25 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnOfTheJungle View Post
Did this issue ever get solved? ...
A careful read shows Post #16 from the OP says Yes.
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Old 01-06-2021, 06:30 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzarech View Post
I have a 1997 4Runner that dies upon start after it's hot --
I looked online and didn't see a check valve for a 97 3.4 Liter -- only a fuel pump. If I buy a fuel pump will it have the check valve built in?
Thanks.
ja
Yes, the fuel pump has a check valve built into it that fails.
My factory Denso unit lasted just shy of 200K miles. A new one cost around $100
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