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Old 03-29-2019, 11:24 PM #16
PetesT4R PetesT4R is offline
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Originally Posted by nobb View Post
How are you using the access port to loosen the brake shoes? The adjuster only goes one way. Due to the mechanism, it would take quite a bit of force to get the adjuster wheel to turn the opposite direction.
From Mtbtim above: When I can't seem to get a drum off, I take out the rubber plug on the backing plate, use a small screwdriver to push the self-adjuster plate away from the star wheel adjuster and then turn the star wheel a bunch of times to back off the shoes from the drum. After that, the drum comes off easily.
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:31 PM #17
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Originally Posted by nobb View Post
How are you using the access port to loosen the brake shoes? The adjuster only goes one way. Due to the mechanism, it would take quite a bit of force to get the adjuster wheel to turn the opposite direction.
You have to use a screw driver to push the adjuster away from the “adjuster” then turn it the other way. Once you have the brakes apart. You will be able to see what I mean. It’s hard to explain it.
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Old 03-30-2019, 12:46 AM #18
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Originally Posted by nobb View Post
How are you using the access port to loosen the brake shoes? The adjuster only goes one way. Due to the mechanism, it would take quite a bit of force to get the adjuster wheel to turn the opposite direction.
Check out this video @JZiggy , @infamousRNR and I made for replacing the shoes on our drum brakes. We describe how everything works with these drum brakes in great detail.

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Old 03-30-2019, 01:22 PM #19
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Thanks. I'm very familiar with the rear drum setup but it did not occur to me that you could stick another thin screwdriver in there to push out the adjuster plate (which is what clicks with the screw adjuster). It's quite tricky to do since there's not much space in there and very difficult to get lighting in there to see what you're doing. I'm guessing you have to mostly operate based on feeling.
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Old 03-30-2019, 01:54 PM #20
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Originally Posted by nobb View Post
Thanks. I'm very familiar with the rear drum setup but it did not occur to me that you could stick another thin screwdriver in there to push out the adjuster plate (which is what clicks with the screw adjuster). It's quite tricky to do since there's not much space in there and very difficult to get lighting in there to see what you're doing. I'm guessing you have to mostly operate based on feeling.
I know it's a long video but at a minimum watch from playtime 18:37-23:03. I give you some helpful hints on how to do this with the benefit of seeing everything with the drum off, so when you're doing it blindly, you'll know what you're feeling for.
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Old 03-31-2019, 08:03 PM #21
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Have you considered that setting it tighter might be causing your brakes shoes to be dragging all the time and then the shoes wear down to where they should be and then you overtighten them again. Sounds like a potentially counterproductive strategy.
Absolutely they would drag with the machine work the shoes and drums come with out of the box...using an old tool that used to be common on shoe replacement, the new shoes have no low or high spots and are perfectly round...I don't know to many people that even know how to do machine work on shoes anymore...getting old!!...but I used to use it on every shoe replacement I did...it was hooked to an old AAmco lathe...the reason why they need tightened every once in a while is that the factory stuff won't let it stay there after it wears a bit...meaning it will go back to the high click count...plus I'm extremely hard on brakes...wear out a set in 15k easy...everything is a race car!!
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Old 12-02-2019, 10:56 PM #22
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I am new to the page and suck at tech, so I need to ask for HELP.
I have a 2003 4Runner V8 Limited and I freaking LOVE IT. I got it used 2 years ago (230 000kms) and it's been freaking awesome! BUT!! The emergency brake shoes seized up and I couldn't get the truck to move (had the e-brake on while parked on a hilly part of the driveway for a few weeks, seriously, that's it). My dad has rebuilt engines and does everything for all of our family cars (except bodywork), and he has been LOSING IT on this ridiculous e-brake system... So, we replaced the shoes (pads were literally STUCK in the rotors) so we replaced those, then all 3 cables, and now the rotors... And we have had the wheels on and off more than I can say, (and the shoes on and off trying to troubleshoot) and we've tightened EVERYTHING sooo many times.... We have adjusted the shit out of these up and down, at the star on the e-brakes, under the console, and at the pedal. We can't get the balance where the wheels will spin in neutral, but the e-brakes will stop the car when in motion. And before I changed the rotors today, (but had done everything else), we removed the old rotors (for the 40th time) and the e-brake had obviously been catching somewhat, because the new e-brake pads had created a shit-ton of dust all in them and look scratched, but still wouldn't stop the wheel when in motion. So new rotors, re-adjusting, and the truck still rolls when the e-brake is on. I think it's making him crazy, and I've been there for a while. If you have any ideas on how to set this thing, I'd love to try them. THANK YOU!! 🙂
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Old 12-03-2019, 01:03 AM #23
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You’re posting in the wrong forum. Your 2003 is 4th gen T4R. You’ll have better luck there.
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