[KZN185]

My drivers window (auto) has sometimes become stuck down and unable to go up for a few minutes every few months. When this happens, I hear a click (like a relay) after which the window will go back up. BUT this happened again recently and unfortunately I never heard that click so now my drivers window is stuck down! I don't hear a single thing when the button is pressed up or down now, not even the motor trying to push up or a relay clicking on.
So,
I opened up my power window master control switch and cleaned all the contacts in there yet the problem remained...
I bought a new power window master control switch yet the problem remained...
I tried shorting wires from the plug to the switch so I could at least get the window up yet the problem remained...

When I connect a multimeter to the wires going to the motor I don't get a full 12V when the switch is pressed (is this right?), instead I get 2.5V. If this is the problem wouldn't the new switch fix it!?!?!
I have connected the motor straight up to 12V and it works fine...

Whats going on!? Any advice would be much appreciated.

The car is a KZN185 (W-GAMXT on toyodiy) which is a RHD 4Runner with a diesel engine.

[KZN185]

I thought I should update this thread as I eventually found the problem. My Surf came from Japan with a unit that will put all the windows up if the car is locked, this is installed on a switch so the feature can be turned on or off. I've always left it off so I forgot about it. The unit for this feature is between the master power window switch on the drivers door and the wires going to all the motors in each door.
It turns out that the relay thing inside the unit for the drivers door had failed and wasn't providing enough power to the drivers window motor. So all I did was bypass the unit so that my drivers window goes up and down just like any other car - but without the ability to go up automatically if the car is locked.

If any other pre-2004 Toyota (not specifically Surf or KZN185) owners read this having similar problems but don't have this automatic window unit thing, then the problem is most likely the contacts in the master switch on the drivers door. These can be cleaned by scratching them up so they are shiny again - but for KZN185 owners, if you happen to break something while opening up the unit (lots of little parts fall out) then an 80 Series Land Cruiser switch unit is a straight swap in. These can be found on ebay for about $40AUD. Other Toyota models may have a common switch with other models.

[coloredo]

Originally Posted by KZN185

My drivers window (auto) has sometimes become stuck down and unable to go up for a few minutes every few months. When this happens, I hear a click (like a relay) after which the window will go back up. BUT this happened again recently and unfortunately I never heard that click so now my drivers window is stuck down! I don't hear a single thing when the button is pressed up or down now, not even the motor trying to push up or a relay clicking on.
So,
I opened up my power window master control switch and cleaned all the contacts in there yet the problem remained...
I bought a new power window master control switch yet the problem remained...
I tried shorting wires from the plug to the switch so I could at least get the window up yet the problem remained...

When I connect a multimeter to the wires going to the motor I don't get a full 12V when the switch is pressed (is this right?), instead I get 2.5V. If this is the problem wouldn't the new switch fix it!?!?!
I have connected the motor straight up to 12V and it works fine...

Whats going on!? Any advice would be much appreciated.

The car is a KZN185 (W-GAMXT on toyodiy) which is a RHD 4Runner with a diesel engine.

I had similar problem - window stuck in up position and all other windows and locks worked OK on my 97 4Runner. I removed panel and checked motor was working with backup 12V jump battery. I removed driver door switch assembly, disassembled (be careful lots of parts, lift from topi) and cleaned contacts (per other forum posts). I reassembled and reinstalled switch, driver and all windows are now working, auto down on driver also working.

[coloredo]

A photo of 97 driver window switch (dirty contacts) before cleaning with alcohol and cotton swabs. Note, there is a small spring that can fall out of the front side of window lock switch.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by coloredo

A photo of 97 driver window switch (dirty contacts) before cleaning with alcohol and cotton swabs. Note, there is a small spring that can fall out of the front side of window lock switch.

I see no photo

[coloredo]

Originally Posted by coloredo

A photo of 97 driver window switch (dirty contacts) before cleaning with alcohol and cotton swabs. Note, there is a small spring that can fall out of the front side of window lock switch.

Photo attached

[caninerelated]

Hey guys,
Having the same issue with my 2003 4runner. Seemingly no power to the motor for the driver side. Have power at all other windows. Have switched out the master switch, tried a new regulator and motor set with no change. Anyone have any suggestions. Would be greatly appreciated.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by caninerelated

Hey guys,
Having the same issue with my 2003 4runner. Seemingly no power to the motor for the driver side. Have power at all other windows. Have switched out the master switch, tried a new regulator and motor set with no change. Anyone have any suggestions. Would be greatly appreciated.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

You have a 4th gen so you would probably have better luck in the 4th gen section, but I would check the door jamb wiring for breaks or tears. Good luck!

[nishy]

Can I piggyback with a window problem? I promise I have a 3rd gen ;) 00 sr5 w/o immobilizer

My front two windows don't work at all, replaced the master switch twice (when I bought the car it wasn't original already). The back two windows work, but only from their respective door switches, not from the master switch. The sunroof works fully, and the tailgate window works. The power mirrors work from the switch, and the power locks work most of the time... usually the locks engage fully with no problems, but sometimes randomly the locks are super weak, even to the point of not locking. Using the passenger switch, the window doesn't work, but the locks act just like they do with the master switch. None of the fuses are blowing during any of this, they're all good. From what I've read it seems like this might be the junction box going bad, I don't know what else would cause half of the windows to not work and the locks to sporadically work. Does anyone else have any other advice/ideas before I spend a few hundred on a new box?

[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by nishy

Can I piggyback with a window problem? I promise I have a 3rd gen ;) 00 sr5 w/o immobilizer

My front two windows don't work at all, replaced the master switch twice (when I bought the car it wasn't original already). The back two windows work, but only from their respective door switches, not from the master switch. The sunroof works fully, and the tailgate window works. The power mirrors work from the switch, and the power locks work most of the time... usually the locks engage fully with no problems, but sometimes randomly the locks are super weak, even to the point of not locking. Using the passenger switch, the window doesn't work, but the locks act just like they do with the master switch. None of the fuses are blowing during any of this, they're all good. From what I've read it seems like this might be the junction box going bad, I don't know what else would cause half of the windows to not work and the locks to sporadically work. Does anyone else have any other advice/ideas before I spend a few hundred on a new box?

Verify all wires are good in the driver side wiring boot that goes from your door to the body.....

Then check the passenger side as well...

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by nishy

Can I piggyback with a window problem? I promise I have a 3rd gen ;) 00 sr5 w/o immobilizer

My front two windows don't work at all, replaced the master switch twice (when I bought the car it wasn't original already). The back two windows work, but only from their respective door switches, not from the master switch. The sunroof works fully, and the tailgate window works. The power mirrors work from the switch, and the power locks work most of the time... usually the locks engage fully with no problems, but sometimes randomly the locks are super weak, even to the point of not locking. Using the passenger switch, the window doesn't work, but the locks act just like they do with the master switch. None of the fuses are blowing during any of this, they're all good. From what I've read it seems like this might be the junction box going bad, I don't know what else would cause half of the windows to not work and the locks to sporadically work. Does anyone else have any other advice/ideas before I spend a few hundred on a new box?

I had the junction box and integration relay go bad on a older Toyota but there is usually evidence of a short if it had. I doubt that's the issue, it sounds more like a wiring problem as you have both front doors not working. If it was just the master switch the passenger's side front door switch would work as well but you already ruled that one out.

[nishy]

Originally Posted by brillo_76

Verify all wires are good in the driver side wiring boot that goes from your door to the body.....

Then check the passenger side as well...

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Well, I don't exactly know what I'm looking for but everything looked okay from what I could tell. The rubber conduit was undamaged, and the taped up loom of wires inside of it didn't seem to have any tears or sharp bends.

This is the first time I've taken off this kick panel, are those two red splices factory? The top one appears to just be a(n additional?) ground, solid black wire. The bottom one joins in to the big loom that connects into what I presume is the ECU, it's brown with white stripe. Looks like one of the computers at any rate... only other oddity I saw was that relay just hanging there, figured out it attaches to the bottom of the fuse block. No idea what it does lmao

[brillo_76]

You have to unplug the door harness.. Take it out of the body to inspect the wiring in the boot that goes from the door to the body plug. The boots always look great its the wires inside that crack and go bad.