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Old 04-02-2019, 12:52 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Yes! Same deal - you want the brake bias to match stock when unloaded (or, if you really know your brakes, maybe adjusted from there).

It just isn't talked about much on here because so few were non-ABS. Kinda like all those discussions of crank windows.

-Charlie
Charlie,

Are there lift brackets for our rigs? I don't think I've seen one.
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Old 04-02-2019, 04:20 PM #17
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Originally Posted by JZiggy View Post
Charlie,

Are there lift brackets for our rigs? I don't think I've seen one.
Probably not. A little bit of aluminum bar and a couple holes should be all you need.

It looks like the valve is attached to the panhard rod - if so, the Eimkeith PCK would work too (using just the axle side section).

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Old 04-03-2019, 08:09 AM #18
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this is one option to adjust and maintain effectiveness of the LSPV:

Brake Proportioning Valve/Brake Cable Extension Kit for 1995-2004 Tacoma, 1996-2002 4Runner, 1999-2006 Tundra (BPV-K)


alternatively, if your lift is more or less permanent, you can replace the bracket with a longer one

Last edited by HiluxSurf SSR-G; 04-03-2019 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:51 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiluxSurf SSR-G View Post
this is one option to adjust and maintain effectiveness of the LSPV:

Brake Proportioning Valve/Brake Cable Extension Kit for 1995-2004 Tacoma, 1996-2002 4Runner, 1999-2006 Tundra (BPV-K)


alternatively, if your lift is more or less permanent, you can replace the bracket with a longer one
That is designed to lift the LSPV rod on leaf-sprung axles. Our coil-sprung axles don't use a rod but rather a big coil spring. Wheelers notes that we can still use this bracket to reposition the e-brake cable but not to address the LSPV.
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Old 04-06-2019, 09:12 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate_GB View Post
What exactly do you mean by "hard brake pedal?" Is it hard to depress the brake pedal all the way from the top of it's travel? Are you feeling a hard pedal but not getting much braking force?

If I was trouble shooting my braking system, the proportioning valve definitely wouldn't be in the top 3 things I would check first while diagnosing.

If you provide some more details of your issue, we might be able to provide some more guidance.
This is a long saga spanning several years. It started with a "catch" in the brake pedal, as in you depress the pedal, it would get hard halfway down as if catching something. Then if I press the pedal harder, it would give and I get full brakes again. During the catch period, I would get partial brakes. Once it gives, i can hear a "clank" noise coming from the rear of the car. Everytime I use the parking brake lever, it would catch in the first 2-3 brake pedal uses. I have also had it happen randomly when driving.

My mechanic couldn't figure it out so I went brute force approach with replacing things. Here's where I'm at so far:

Things I've replaced in order:
- brake booster hose and valve. No effect
- Mechanic replaced the brake booster. No effect.
- front calipers & rotors, flushed brake fluid (brake fluid was dark). Problem improved, with less force required to get pass the catch.
- wheel cylinders in the drum, no effect
- master cylinder, no effect
- drum shoes, shoe adjuster, parking brake cable (the 8'' one inside the drum) Problem improved, now only catching lightly with parking brake lever up and me pumping the brake pedal in park.

From what I've read, this sounds like a "tripped valve" in the proportioning valve. It can be the valve being faulty itself or something tripping the valve. However, I'm not sure what else is left for me to replace.

Things I haven't replaced (let me know if there's anything I've missed)
- Brake hoses. (inspected and doesn't look cracked or leaky)
- LSPV (Just discovered it recently, bled it, problem persists)
- Drum springs & clips (autozone parts didn't fit so I reused the originals, looked fine)
- Drums (looked fine)

Last edited by quatin; 04-06-2019 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 04-06-2019, 09:14 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner View Post
I have only owned limited models 96 & 01 both ABS, have looked at all in the yards never seen this on a Runner.
Must be on the cheapest optioned Runners you could buy.

@quatin , just curious what frame code do you have?
Not sure what a frame code is, but can confirm this is the cheapest model you can buy (4cyl & 15'' rims) and was discontinued in 2000.
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Old 04-06-2019, 09:17 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaulG View Post

Adjust the fluid pressure by changing the A or B length.
1. Low pressure - Lengthen A, B
2. High pressure- Shorten A, B

HINT: Fluid pressure change for one turn of the lock nut is 100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi) and fluid pressure change for 1 mm (0.04 inch) sliding of the adjust bolt within the long hole position is 40 kPa (0.4 kgf/cm2, 6 psi).



Initial set length (Unladen): 222.5 mm (8.760 inch)
I can't see the pictures. I'm searching all over the net for how to adjust this thing, so it would be really helpful if you can reupload it.
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Old 04-07-2019, 10:40 AM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quatin View Post
I can't see the pictures. I'm searching all over the net for how to adjust this thing, so it would be really helpful if you can reupload it.
Here you go...
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Old 04-07-2019, 12:08 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quatin View Post
Not sure what a frame code is,.
Knowing code will help when buying parts, B-pillar driver side ID tag tells you.

Mine is VZN185L-GKPZKA, VZN185L is frame code, GKPZKA is characteristic code.
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Old 04-07-2019, 12:51 PM #25
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Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
Here you go...
Thanks. What is the unladen distance you quoted earlier? I couldn't find that in the manual you posted.
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Old 04-07-2019, 01:14 PM #26
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Is my valve just broken? I feel like the default state should be with the spring fully loaded and the arm down. My default state is with the spring fully relaxed and the arm up. When I pull down on the bumper (adding a load), it seems like the arm wants to go up, which can only work if the default state of the arm is down.

Default state (unladen) with spring fully relaxed and just hanging loosely. Arm all the way up.



What I think should be the unladen state, with the arm all the way down and the spring fully loaded.
Attached Images
What is this thing? [SOLVED - Load Sensing Proportioning Valve]-defaultstate-jpg  What is this thing? [SOLVED - Load Sensing Proportioning Valve]-whatshouldbedefault-jpg 

Last edited by quatin; 04-08-2019 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 04-07-2019, 02:35 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quatin View Post
Thanks. What is the unladen distance you quoted earlier? I couldn't find that in the manual you posted.
That wasn't me. And I have never seen one of these; except I was looking for one on mine many years ago because of the manual. I have ABS, so I never found it.
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Old 04-07-2019, 10:03 PM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quatin View Post
This is a long saga spanning several years. It started with a "catch" in the brake pedal, as in you depress the pedal, it would get hard halfway down as if catching something. Then if I press the pedal harder, it would give and I get full brakes again. During the catch period, I would get partial brakes. Once it gives, i can hear a "clank" noise coming from the rear of the car. Everytime I use the parking brake lever, it would catch in the first 2-3 brake pedal uses. I have also had it happen randomly when driving.

My mechanic couldn't figure it out so I went brute force approach with replacing things. Here's where I'm at so far:

Things I've replaced in order:
- brake booster hose and valve. No effect
- Mechanic replaced the brake booster. No effect.
- front calipers & rotors, flushed brake fluid (brake fluid was dark). Problem improved, with less force required to get pass the catch.
- wheel cylinders in the drum, no effect
- master cylinder, no effect
- drum shoes, shoe adjuster, parking brake cable (the 8'' one inside the drum) Problem improved, now only catching lightly with parking brake lever up and me pumping the brake pedal in park.

From what I've read, this sounds like a "tripped valve" in the proportioning valve. It can be the valve being faulty itself or something tripping the valve. However, I'm not sure what else is left for me to replace.

Things I haven't replaced (let me know if there's anything I've missed)
- Brake hoses. (inspected and doesn't look cracked or leaky)
- LSPV (Just discovered it recently, bled it, problem persists)
- Drum springs & clips (autozone parts didn't fit so I reused the originals, looked fine)
- Drums (looked fine)
The parking brake and the hydraulic braking system are completely separate systems all the way up to the point of the actual brake shoe engagement inside the drums. So the fact that you say that parking brake use effects the situation leads me to believe that the brake shoes inside the drum are not installed correctly. There's lots of adjusters and springs and small parts that have to be in the correct place to function properly. I'd be willing to make a heavy bet that's where your problems lie. I'd start by removing your drums and comparing what your setup looks like to a known correct setup photo.

Post a photo of each side with the brake drum off and we should quickly be able to tell you if something is way off.

Last edited by Nate_GB; 04-07-2019 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 04-08-2019, 01:48 AM #29
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There is a special procedure to adjust the ebrake bell cranks which effect the brake shoe adjustment.


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Old 04-08-2019, 01:09 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate_GB View Post
The parking brake and the hydraulic braking system are completely separate systems all the way up to the point of the actual brake shoe engagement inside the drums. So the fact that you say that parking brake use effects the situation leads me to believe that the brake shoes inside the drum are not installed correctly. There's lots of adjusters and springs and small parts that have to be in the correct place to function properly. I'd be willing to make a heavy bet that's where your problems lie. I'd start by removing your drums and comparing what your setup looks like to a known correct setup photo.

Post a photo of each side with the brake drum off and we should quickly be able to tell you if something is way off.
It might take me a bit to get the car jacked up to take pictures, but meanwhile I have pictures of the drivers side drum before I started disassembly. At this point, it is all original parts, except for the wheel cylinder. (had the problem before replacing wheel cylinder too) To replace the wheel cylinder, I popped off the c-clip for the adjuster arm and pulled it off the pin (but didn't remove the spring) to make it easier to turn the adjuster to max so I could slide the cylinder off. I adjusted the shoes after installation.

Some things to note. This problem isn't exclusive to the e-brake, it's just easily reproducible using the e-brake. The old shoes had plenty of meat left, but had more wear on the bottom where all the dust gathered forming a 2''x2'' sticky patch on the shoe facing the rear. Maybe the 1 shoe was getting stuck? I also never adjusted the e-brake as the shoes wore, so it would take 10-11 clicks on the e-brake handleto set. After the new shoes, it takes 5-6 clicks.
Attached Images
What is this thing? [SOLVED - Load Sensing Proportioning Valve]-drum1-jpg  What is this thing? [SOLVED - Load Sensing Proportioning Valve]-drum2-jpg  What is this thing? [SOLVED - Load Sensing Proportioning Valve]-drum3-jpg  What is this thing? [SOLVED - Load Sensing Proportioning Valve]-drum4-jpg 

Last edited by quatin; 04-08-2019 at 01:26 PM.
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