Addison, I missed the fact that your 4runner is manual. I always assumed it was an auto. Do you enjoy driving the manual more than your 'Duster', which I'm pretty sure was auto?

Also, thanks for the thorough write up. This is a PM that I should do soon. My 4runner has 233k and the clutch doesn't make any noise (yet), but I'm sure it could benefit from it.

Thanks and take care

Durwin

Amazing photos

Clutch pedals/springs/throw out bearings are the "pink milkshake" of the manual world. Keep up on the maintenance and it won't be catastrophic.

In my Camry, the *one* non-OEM part I put on there (throw out bearing) squeaks like mad on the first few engagements in the morning... Not gonna tear out the trans for a noise - but it is quite annoying.

-Charlie

Wyoming trip huh?

Hey brotha, any reason in particular you didnt modify the magnaflow to work with the eimkeith bumper exit?

New to the forum... Really enjoyed reading about your builds!

I feel late to the party, but going through your build pages (just starting on the OG Duster) inspires even the most meek of us! Funny enough, I never caught this thread while doing my own research on the 4th gen 5160's last year, but it helps to reinforce my justification for going that route over a more traditional 3rd gen shock option. Running the 210v's with a fully loaded storage system, roof rack, and soon-to-be rear bumper, I'm hoping to settle out with ~1" rake compared to what I'm about to go back to...

I'll be taking out the 1/4" strut spacer plates tomorrow so the 3rd gen 6112's can go back to their designed working height. They're at 8/9 (2.3") right now, but what are your impressions on going down to 7/8 to keep the front around 2"? By doing that, I'll be at ~2.5-3" of a rake, though! Also, what are you impressions on diff drops? Not sure if you've covered it on other threads, but I didn't catch you putting them on this build.

I plan to keep an eye on your posts to see what someone far-more knowledgeable than I can find that will handle the rear weight, while still being progressive, and not adding a ton of unnecessary lift. If you're ever down around WA/OR, hit me up!

Hey Durwin, yah manual this time around. If I'm honest, I love the manual from a DD and highway cruising perspective. I am also getting around 19MPG (calculated/corrected) on the highway with the 4.30 gears and 315's (which I still think is actually pretty crazy). It's just fun rowing gears and not having the auto trying to constantly correct for the lack of power.

On the trail, I prefer an auto. It's so easy to be smooth and controlled at all times. I consider myself a pretty good manual driver (and always trying to improve) but you still can't touch the auto in very technical situations. I am sure gears and a crawl box would help a ton with that but it is what it is. Would I trade this for an auto truck though? Absolutely not.

Thank you sir!

I totally hear you on that Charlie. My clutch pedal wasn't THAT bad but that squeak drove me crazy. Glad I tackled it sooner than later now that I have read more into the issue and the long-term negative effects associated with leaving it alone.

As soon as the flood gates open. ;) I'll keep you in the loop!

We were texting about this but it's a valid question to answer here for people.... I want to do it but you would have to modify the tail section of the Magnaflow to jump over the frame rail. I think it would be fairly easy to do but is just another small project that I have yet time to do. Like you... I'll probably leave it like this until I do the F150 swap.

Thanks for reading through. cheers

Funny you commented hear as I was just reading some of your notes in the Rear Coil Thread. What is your "hub-to-fender" measurements with the 210v?

I would love to drop my front end down to 1" or 1.5" of suspension lift. This way the front suspension would be in a great "centered" position with a lot of uptravel and downtravel available. I think even at the ~2.5" front lift, you still have a lack of downtravel which is associated with a rough ride. Often people think it's because your coils are preloaded, therefore the ride is rough, but it's actually the lack of downtravel available when you go over bumps, making it ride more poorly than a comparison point at a lower front ride height.

You seem to be arriving at my same conclusions where keeping the front low is more ideal, but then you have a lack of rear coil options that work effectively without massive rake. My dream coil is 890 or 891 ride height with some super soft/wide wraps at the end that allow for the full droop of a 4th gen or LX80 rear shock, without the coil dropping out. 2.5" or unloaded rear lift and even 2" when loaded but with tons of droop. This would excite me a lot, but does not exist!

I am starting to get my head back into all this though. I have found a vendor who will do small-batches of custom coil springs. If I can get all the info I need together, I am going to inquire about doing a run of custom rear coils. I have heard you need to do a run of 20-40 for them to do it. Which honestly doesn't seem that bad.

I actually just got to my shop with the intention on doing a full write-up on the travel specs of the 6112's on here once I take some measurements with the springs off. Yesterday was another day spent obsessively scouring the internet trying to get more details on the 4Runner specific ones with nothing. The goal is to try to get as much up-travel as possible back before hitting the top of the wheel wells. I'm hoping that between the perch settings and the 1/4" strut spacers I have a little extra to play around with to get me there.

I'm down for a run of custom springs! I'm at ~24" hub-to-fender in the back at the moment, which I believe is 3" of lift? I really want the most efficient travel range with a healthy balance between on and offroad comfort for ~400 lbs. of extra weight in back and up top when fully loaded up. I never thought this would be so much work! lol

**UPDATE**

Spring feels like it is about to arrive. I've been planning several things over the winter as "spring" projects for the 4Runner. My plan is to realistically wrench less and camp/wheel more as my daughter is more of-age this year to actually be able to get out some more with the family. I say that and then laugh at the list below.

Duster projects include:
- SPC rear LCA installation (they've been sitting in my truck for 1.5 years lol)
- Grille swap (new 01+ chrome OEM grille sitting in a box for the last 6 months)
- JDM Forged 3-piece wheel rebuild (I sold my beadlocks in the fall)
- New front bumper (Excited for this... CAD drawings will be posted in the coming weeks)
- RTT (we might be building one )
- New rear brakes (disk conversion or replace drums soaked in gear oil)
- @eimkeith F150 tank setup (waiting for someone to make the fuel filler a simple solution!)

Sneak peak at the new kicks - JDM 90's 16" Bridgestone BERG 3-piece wheels. They are forged aluminum 16x8 and 4.5" BS 0 Offset. I scored a set of 5x wheels on a Yahoo japan auction after hunting for a clean set for a long time. Super excited to refinish them with the new hardware I've purchased already, some painted faces, and refinished barrels. Did I mention they were forged and weigh 17lbs per corner? Here you go @JBend making me all jealous of wheel pics lol


_08I5654.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr


_08I5656.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr


_08I5660.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr

I'm always excited to see a Rickashay update! I just put in some SPC rear LCAs this winter, they certainly helped with rear slop a bit and let's be honest, they are beefier and look cool. Using ratchet straps to shift the axle back in place in order to line up the bolt holes was very necessary in my case, but I'm sure it could be different for everyone. Also be sure you just do one side at a time.
I'll be sad to see the Coastal Offroad bumper go! Your rig is one of the top candidates that's always caused me to think about swapping my ARB for a lower profile CO one. Now I'm antsy to see your 4Runner with all the new goodies!

Sick build man! Been wanting the Coastal Offroad front bumper and can't seem to pull the trigger because sadly I don't have a welder to put it together. Haha! I'd be interested in buying your front bumper if you're willing to ship to California? Let me know.

Thanks! Good pro tip on the ratchet straps for the SPC's. I'll make sure I have a set when I go to throw them in. I just hope they hold up well with our nasty winters!!

Yah the CO bumper is great. Super low pro. I've just had a more "OEM+" design in my head for way too long and it's time I make it happen. We're actually planning on selling the new bumper if there is enough interest. I should be dropping some teasers in here in the next little bit. Just need to pull my current bumper and confirm some measurements before our engineer makes the next round of revisions to the current design.

ARB's are still so nice.... different look entirely but I do love them myself. Not many bumpers pull off the full headlight protection well IMO, but ARB does it perfectly.

Thanks! At this time I'll be looking to sell it semi-locally. I'd prefer not to ship it if I can avoid it. But if I have trouble selling I will let you know and I am sure we can work something out. Cheers

Sounds like a damn good time.

IN.

Those wheels are going to look so rad! Stoked to see those go on.

Hey Addison, awesome build! I just picked up my 1st 3rd gen, a 2000 SR5, thanks in part to threads like this, and the message board as a whole. Your work and attention to detail is
I'm in the same boat as Binqker, and even if I did have one, I don't trust my skills enough. I'm in Vancouver, but am out in Osoyoos several times per year, so can make a day trip out to Nelson. Please keep me in mind when you do the bumper swap; I'll gladly take the Coastal one off your hands.
Cheers