04-30-2019, 02:26 PM
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#16
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Chicago, IL.
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Chicago, IL.
Posts: 161
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Sorry for the late response, I have a bit busy with work and relocating stuff from one house in Chicago to another house in Phoenix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyngfish
Subscribed to this thread. My rebuild is more than likely a long way off, but coming from the Porsche and CRX world, I always thought this was my more likely path rather than just buying a JDM replacement. I'd be interested in a couple of things:
- Would you consider adding an aftermarket turbo instead of the supercharger system? I think you can get similar performance but at a much lower cost, but you'd have to have piping to fit everything and you'd need someone to tune it, or tune it yourself.
- While you're in there, did you consider upping the displacement slightly instead of going forced induction? Upping the bore diameter slightly was something I thought about. One of the things I love about the 4Runner is its overall cheap cost of operation - being tied to premium gas changes that equation.
Looking forward to following this thread.
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I was considering a turbo earlier on before the engine was pulled out, however, I purchased another car (2019 STI) to build into a fast street car and so my budgeting for performance parts are more focused on the STI than on the T4R. I do, however, plan on sourcing a TRD/Magnuson Supercharger after the build....but nothing extreme.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyngfish
My knowledge is fairly limited, I just rebuilt my first engine - but I thought that stroking an engine is much harder than boring. Since you're basically changing the characteristics of the crank in order to stroke.
I wonder what the optimal bore would be on that block. I'd love a bit more torque while keeping the cheap gas option.
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On a 4x4, it's always best to leave as much meat on the block as possible. "Torquey" engines need solid blocks, and removing material from cylinders is generally not recommended. For racing and high performance motors, sure...but low revving "torquey" motors, not so good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
Because of the oil and coolant passageways you can't really bore it out all that much. Not even to 3.5L without risking it cracking. But you are right, stroking is more difficult but the only real way to increase displacement.
If you want crazy power, a turbo setup will get you there. I've pretty much at the limits of the TRD supercharger now. It builds boost but just is so small that it doesn't flow a ton of air unless it's spinning at insane RPM's, which at that case heat really becomes an issue. I've got a few more tricks up my sleeve though like changing the final drive ratio to 4.88 and re-doing the exhaust and we'll see how it drives then. If I could go standalone that would really change things though, the ability to advance timing would gain a lot of power too.
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^This.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyngfish
Tricky - though, right, because when you start advancing timing you're messing with the power delivery, and in a truck you really want it low in the RPM range, and early, but with a sports car - getting it higher in the rev range is better.
Someone on here was doing a turbo build. As these trucks age, I can't wait to see some of the more creative ways people get power out of their 3.4s. The 3rd gen weighs less than a lot of modern sedans, so it's not like it would need a ton of power to really transform it.
Glad to see Faddidy here chronicling his rebuild though.
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I have built a few Toyota motors in the past, most recently my 4th 2JZ that I sold a few months ago. One thing I will say about Toyota engines, no matter what mileage or condition the motor is in on the outside, they are like new internally. VERY well built engines, and the over-engineering from the 90's makes newer engines look like child's play. If forced-induction is your goal, leave as much material on the motor and go turbo. Good luck bud!
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Fadiddy's Build Thread | 2000 Limited 4x4 | e-Locker | ARB Bumper | IPF Lights | Tundra TRD Front Coils & OME 890 Rear Coils | Bilstien 5100 Shocks | Tundra Brake Upgrade | Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers | 285/75R 16 General Grabbers AT2's | Toyotec Bump Stops and Diff Drop | E7006 NAV
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05-01-2019, 02:16 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Englewood
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Not much to "build" for a TRD supercharger. They don't add that much power. I would spend most money and time on a good piggyback system. Maybe something that allows for bigger injectors rather than a 7th injector. Doug Thorley headers, high flow cat, smaller pulley, water meth injection to help cool-thats about it.
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05-01-2019, 11:43 AM
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#18
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Chicago, IL.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White Stripe
Not much to "build" for a TRD supercharger. They don't add that much power. I would spend most money and time on a good piggyback system. Maybe something that allows for bigger injectors rather than a 7th injector. Doug Thorley headers, high flow cat, smaller pulley, water meth injection to help cool-thats about it.
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I should have titled this thread "rebuild" lol. After seeing just how beefy the 5VZFE is internally, there really isn't much to "build" for boost.
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Fadiddy's Build Thread | 2000 Limited 4x4 | e-Locker | ARB Bumper | IPF Lights | Tundra TRD Front Coils & OME 890 Rear Coils | Bilstien 5100 Shocks | Tundra Brake Upgrade | Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers | 285/75R 16 General Grabbers AT2's | Toyotec Bump Stops and Diff Drop | E7006 NAV
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05-04-2019, 02:23 PM
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#19
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Join Date: May 2008
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Fadiddy's Build Thread | 2000 Limited 4x4 | e-Locker | ARB Bumper | IPF Lights | Tundra TRD Front Coils & OME 890 Rear Coils | Bilstien 5100 Shocks | Tundra Brake Upgrade | Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers | 285/75R 16 General Grabbers AT2's | Toyotec Bump Stops and Diff Drop | E7006 NAV
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05-05-2019, 09:08 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Val Cote, Ontario, Canada
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Cool! I've been daydreaming of building an engine for mine.... LS swap was on the list of possible engines.
Sub'd to see what you do with this block....
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1998 4Runner SR5, ISR and Deckplate Mods, Painted Intake Manifold, TRD Tundra Struts, Diff Drop, LC 8 Wraps w/ Skyjacker shocks, Panhard Drop Bracket, Rear Tire Carrier, Maxxis Bighorns, Procomp Wheels, Custom Front Valance, Sport Edition Skidplate, Upgraded Exterior lighting
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05-05-2019, 10:17 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Layton, UT
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Nice man, sounds like your block and heads were in much better shape than mine!
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– 96 SR5 5SPD Elocker "the Barnacle"
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05-14-2019, 10:24 PM
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#22
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Cleaned 90% of the parts that were salvageable. Waiting on the bearings, and assembly will begin.
I painted the valve covers red.
I painted the headers cast iron.
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Fadiddy's Build Thread | 2000 Limited 4x4 | e-Locker | ARB Bumper | IPF Lights | Tundra TRD Front Coils & OME 890 Rear Coils | Bilstien 5100 Shocks | Tundra Brake Upgrade | Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers | 285/75R 16 General Grabbers AT2's | Toyotec Bump Stops and Diff Drop | E7006 NAV
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06-30-2019, 02:52 PM
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#23
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Fadiddy's Build Thread | 2000 Limited 4x4 | e-Locker | ARB Bumper | IPF Lights | Tundra TRD Front Coils & OME 890 Rear Coils | Bilstien 5100 Shocks | Tundra Brake Upgrade | Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers | 285/75R 16 General Grabbers AT2's | Toyotec Bump Stops and Diff Drop | E7006 NAV
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07-01-2019, 11:12 AM
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#24
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oh momma
Wish i could have got mine that clean, looks amazing
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– 96 SR5 5SPD Elocker "the Barnacle"
–02 bmw 540i6
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07-01-2019, 11:23 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,037
Real Name: Scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fadiddy
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Please mark NSFW!! This is basically pornography!!
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07-01-2019, 11:58 AM
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#26
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Desert Hills, Arizona
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Subscribed. Looks like you have a good handle on reality. I hate it when people don't understand the design envelope of an engine.
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1998 4Runner Limited, King coilovers, Trick Toys Fab front bumperette/lightbar, TTF rock rails, Toyo 265's, locker mod.
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07-01-2019, 12:53 PM
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#27
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Join Date: May 2008
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Thanks guys! Yeah, it cleaned up pretty good...
I am not anticipating the sourcing of the small parts (rusted nuts/bolts, gaskets, seals, etc...).
More to come soon...
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Fadiddy's Build Thread | 2000 Limited 4x4 | e-Locker | ARB Bumper | IPF Lights | Tundra TRD Front Coils & OME 890 Rear Coils | Bilstien 5100 Shocks | Tundra Brake Upgrade | Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers | 285/75R 16 General Grabbers AT2's | Toyotec Bump Stops and Diff Drop | E7006 NAV
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07-02-2019, 01:00 AM
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#28
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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Wow looks great.
Have you thought about getting the exhaust manifolds resurfaced? That is if you are reusing them.
Great work but the way. Can’t wait to see how it turns out
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07-02-2019, 04:45 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smog-guy707
Wow looks great.
Have you thought about getting the exhaust manifolds resurfaced? That is if you are reusing them.
Great work but the way. Can’t wait to see how it turns out
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I was thinking about doing a few light passes on some fine grit sandpaper, but I don't think they are too bad. I may take them to a shop to check surface "straightness."
Btw, if I can give any advice to anyone looking to take this kind of a job on....bag and mark EVERYTHING. I can't even begin to tell you all how much money and stress it has caused sourcing the small $hit.
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Fadiddy's Build Thread | 2000 Limited 4x4 | e-Locker | ARB Bumper | IPF Lights | Tundra TRD Front Coils & OME 890 Rear Coils | Bilstien 5100 Shocks | Tundra Brake Upgrade | Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers | 285/75R 16 General Grabbers AT2's | Toyotec Bump Stops and Diff Drop | E7006 NAV
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07-03-2019, 08:05 AM
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#30
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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Fadiddy's 5VZFE Build
I bagged and tagged everything and still couldn’t find my rear main seal plate bolts.
I do not like the one second for the oil pressure light to go off after engine run.
It also seems like I have a tick in the passenger side head. I had to use the intake cams from a different head. If it was cam bearing noise this engine would be dead by now. I got 4500 miles on the fresh engine. With the engine tick at idle.
It may also be wrist pin noise. I know I’m done worrying about the noise. Oil is clean with no metal visible. And at 4500 miles it was still hard to see it on the dip stick. I did the alternative break in method. As soon as I got it running I did around 15 30-60mph 3/4 to WOT accelerations and around the 30 mile mark I ran it up the mountain hard. Those rings are bedded in for sure.
I did bead blast the exhaust manifolds and the intake manifold and intake plenums to make it more presentable.
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Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 07-03-2019 at 08:07 AM.
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