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Old 07-03-2019, 10:13 AM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fadiddy View Post
Btw, if I can give any advice to anyone looking to take this kind of a job on....bag and mark EVERYTHING. I can't even begin to tell you all how much money and stress it has caused sourcing the small $hit.
YUP! hell, even then i still misplaced a few bits and some were never there thanks to the PO pulling the motor out and just throwing things in a box.
Taking a lot of extra time to clean, bag and tag is top of my list for the next motor build... as well as getting it as clean as you have
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Old 07-03-2019, 03:09 PM #32
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Originally Posted by Joelzy View Post
YUP! hell, even then i still misplaced a few bits and some were never there thanks to the PO pulling the motor out and just throwing things in a box.

Taking a lot of extra time to clean, bag and tag is top of my list for the next motor build... as well as getting it as clean as you have


Funny you say that itís similar to how I ended up with my 97 SR5. He had the engine half torn apart for head gaskets and got a DUI and ran out of money and it sat for almost a year. Things were in boxes in the back.


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Old 07-04-2019, 05:37 PM #33
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Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
I bagged and tagged everything and still couldnít find my rear main seal plate bolts.

I do not like the one second for the oil pressure light to go off after engine run.

It also seems like I have a tick in the passenger side head. I had to use the intake cams from a different head. If it was cam bearing noise this engine would be dead by now. I got 4500 miles on the fresh engine. With the engine tick at idle.

It may also be wrist pin noise. I know Iím done worrying about the noise. Oil is clean with no metal visible. And at 4500 miles it was still hard to see it on the dip stick. I did the alternative break in method. As soon as I got it running I did around 15 30-60mph 3/4 to WOT accelerations and around the 30 mile mark I ran it up the mountain hard. Those rings are bedded in for sure.

I did bead blast the exhaust manifolds and the intake manifold and intake plenums to make it more presentable.
Wow, interesting. I'm wondering if the ticking noise was from the valve bucket shims. My machine shop told me they re-checked all shims, and two shims from both heads were out of spec. They simply moved them around, and got everything to sit even within spec. The machinist did say, that if I would have kept those out of spec shims in place, the motor would still run...except it would have a loud ticking sound.

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YUP! hell, even then i still misplaced a few bits and some were never there thanks to the PO pulling the motor out and just throwing things in a box.
Taking a lot of extra time to clean, bag and tag is top of my list for the next motor build... as well as getting it as clean as you have
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Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
Funny you say that itís similar to how I ended up with my 97 SR5. He had the engine half torn apart for head gaskets and got a DUI and ran out of money and it sat for almost a year. Things were in boxes in the back.
Right? Man, I got nuts and bolts alllllll over the garage now. I have no idea where half of those nuts and bolts go now....lol. I mean, they are mostly for brackets and non-mechanical items, but damn....I haven't the slightest clue where I originally pulled them from. I am slowly buying and sourcing new or "newer" nuts and bolts just because the old ones are in terrible shape.
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:20 PM #34
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Fadiddy's 5VZFE Build

When I bought the dead SR5 I pulled engine and put it on a stand and didnít touch it. So I had good reference to bracket locations and bolts for them as well as all the intake and intake plenum bolts. What I couldnít find when I put the engine from the wrecked 96 in the maroon 97 I robbed from the dead motor I pulled out or from the engine bay of the wrecked 96.

Itís a lot of reading but that whole journey is documented in my 97 SR5 Build and Repair thread.


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Old 07-09-2019, 12:03 PM #35
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Some more progress....





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Old 07-18-2019, 06:01 AM #36
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Does anyone know if the coolant pipe in-between the two cylinder heads (in the center of the block) that leads to the firewall inlet and outlet of the heater core has an o-ring, gasket, or sealer?

Thanks.
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:35 PM #37
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Does anyone know if the coolant pipe in-between the two cylinder heads (in the center of the block) that leads to the firewall inlet and outlet of the heater core has an o-ring, gasket, or sealer?

Thanks.
Its sealer
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:06 PM #38
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Some more progress....





That's exactly what my engine looks like...not.

Looking good!
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Old 07-21-2019, 06:12 PM #39
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Its sealer
Just replaced the water bypass pipe on mine about a month ago. It uses the black FIPG material. There is a small grove on the pipe mating surface for the sealant.
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Old 07-21-2019, 06:12 PM #40
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And donít forget an oil filter
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Old 07-22-2019, 11:42 AM #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRidgeRunner1 View Post
Its sealer
Thank you sir!

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That's exactly what my engine looks like...not.

Looking good!
Hehe...thanks bud. I hope all this "pretty paint" holds up.

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Just replaced the water bypass pipe on mine about a month ago. It uses the black FIPG material. There is a small grove on the pipe mating surface for the sealant.
Thank you!

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And donít forget an oil filter
Hopefully not, lol.
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Old 07-22-2019, 11:48 AM #42
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Got my fuel injectors fully cleaned and tested. If anyone wants a good shop that does this, give Fred a call at Rosch Fuel Injection Cleaning. Excellent service and quick turn around. He cleaned all injectors, replaced all o-rings, replaced all filters inside the injectors, and tested spray pattern and coils. Excellent service for a great price!

Here are some more pics of the fuel rail and injectors installed:









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