[hdoggie24]

I was at the junkyard and grabbed a 99 rear cargo 12v outlet out of the 99. Has anybody added this to their 96-98? I was planning just to cut out the opening and pop it in and had questions about wiring it up. Is there any way to tap into the existing wiring near the back taillight so I don't need to run wire all the way to the engine area? Has anybody done anything similar that can help? There has got to be way to splice into something in the back to make it easier. Any help would be great. Thanks guys.

[TheDurk]

Originally Posted by hdoggie24

I was at the junkyard and grabbed a 99 rear cargo 12v outlet out of the 99. Has anybody added this to their 96-98? I was planning just to cut out the opening and pop it in and had questions about wiring it up. Is there any way to tap into the existing wiring near the back taillight so I don't need to run wire all the way to the engine area? Has anybody done anything similar that can help? There has got to be way to splice into something in the back to make it easier. Any help would be great. Thanks guys.

There is no full-time 12V in the back that I can think of. If you are a running anything with a real draw, like a 12V fridge, you want a dedicated line straight from the battery with an in-line fuse anyway.

Best you could do is tap the power window line in the harness going to liftgate--solid blue wire on a '97.

[calnhob]

Did this when I was building out my rear sleeping platform. Wanted a 12V cigarette plug and USB.

I didn't use the stock 12v outlet but same idea. You can tap into the 12v positive from the rear roof light and ground anywhere. I've run air compressor on it but if you're looking for more juice then I would go with TheDurk's suggestion.

[rightyouareken]

FWIW, the stock 12v outlet in the hatch area on later cars is not always hot. It's ignition switch controlled. That can be a pro or con depending on your needs.

Personally if I were running power back there for anything more than a cell phone charger, I'd run a dedicated wire from the battery with inline fuse. I personally wouldn't be comfortable running something like a compressor or fridge off light wiring, but it sounds like others have done so without issues.

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by rightyouareken

FWIW, the stock 12v outlet in the hatch area on later cars is not always hot. It's ignition switch controlled. That can be a pro or con depending on your needs.

Personally if I were running power back there for anything more than a cell phone charger, I'd run a dedicated wire from the battery with inline fuse. I personally wouldn't be comfortable running something like a compressor or fridge off light wiring, but it sounds like others have done so without issues.

I run a small 12V cooler off that with no issues. Toyota used quality copper wiring (not that copper coated junk) and I'm consistently surprised on how well it carries current. Same goes for speakers.

[rightyouareken]

Originally Posted by gamefreakgc

I run a small 12V cooler off that with no issues. Toyota used quality copper wiring (not that copper coated junk) and I'm consistently surprised on how well it carries current. Same goes for speakers.

Oh cool, that's great to hear!

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by rightyouareken

Oh cool, that's great to hear!

I should have said this in the first post, but it's only a 5 amp cooler though. Not exactly big.

A portable air compressor though will draw between 15-20 amps though so I guess there's plenty of room (which I have also done). However drawing 15 amps from an air compressor for 5 minutes produces a whole lot less heat than running a 15 amp cooler in the back for a 10 hour road trip. That's where the dedicated line from the battery is nice to make sure you don't fry the wiring.

[hdoggie24]

Originally Posted by TheDurk

There is no full-time 12V in the back that I can think of. If you are a running anything with a real draw, like a 12V fridge, you want a dedicated line straight from the battery with an in-line fuse anyway.

Best you could do is tap the power window line in the harness going to liftgate--solid blue wire on a '97.

Thanks for the help and recommendation. I actually recently installed some amps with a 3 way splitter from the battery. I'm going to use that for power with the inline fuse. What size in line fuse would be sufficient? The 12v fridge idea sounds tempting actually. I think id want to run a compressor off of it as well.

[Riceye]

Originally Posted by rightyouareken

FWIW, the stock 12v outlet in the hatch area on later cars is not always hot. It's ignition switch controlled.

Easily resolved. Use a hefty gauge wire. I like having the outlets live with key-out to power a fan for my dogs when parked.
Power Outlet Mod

[TheDurk]

Originally Posted by hdoggie24

Thanks for the help and recommendation. I actually recently installed some amps with a 3 way splitter from the battery. I'm going to use that for power with the inline fuse. What size in line fuse would be sufficient? The 12v fridge idea sounds tempting actually. I think id want to run a compressor off of it as well.

Fuse depends on wire size and length and that depends on the load. I believe the factory cig outlets are internally fused. The front ones are. 10A maybe? All the way in back you could do 14ga but I would prefer 12ga 'cuz I like copper and then fuse it at 15A. Could fuse 12ga at 20A but no point if the outlet will pop at 10A.

What are you going to run?

[hdoggie24]

Originally Posted by TheDurk

Fuse depends on wire size and length and that depends on the load. I believe the factory cig outlets are internally fused. The front ones are. 10A maybe? All the way in back you could do 14ga but I would prefer 12ga 'cuz I like copper and then fuse it at 15A. Could fuse 12ga at 20A but no point if the outlet will pop at 10A.

What are you going to run?

Havent decided yet what I intend to run but just want to future proof so when I do run something. Fridge/cooler and compressor for sure, not sure what else.