Unfortunately, the driver's side rear lower control arm bracket partially separated from the frame due to frame corrosion on my 1997 4Runner. I am waiting for someone to sell a kit that would slip over the good part of the frame for that section. AutoRust up in RI says that they are actively working on it. I have parked the car and hopefully I can get her back in action, as it is in good shape otherwise and it is the model with 5 speed manual.

I also intend to replace the lower control arms with brand new genuine Toyota ones but it seems that the ones that I can buy are made for later models (1998-2002). I am wondering if I can use the one that is made for the later models can be used for 1996-1997 models. I would appreciate your help on this.

I'm pretty sure they are all interchangeable. the only difference is the bushing style but the new ones should come with bushings already installed

they'll work. only rear arm differences are the UCA 2wd vs 4wd

Sounds good to me. I figured this was the case but I wanted to be sure. Really appreciate your help!

My recommendation would be to buy a used pair of LCAs, press out the old bushings, and press in new polyurethane bushings. You could find the LCAs at the junkyard or someone parting out their Runner, but I was able to find a pair cheap off eBay that had no rust. Total cost was cheaper than brand new, and that's including a set of upgraded bushings.

Thanks TimmyTimTim. I checked with the local junk yard. For some reason, their price on LCAs are relatively high. Plus, I only wanted to use genuine Toyota parts. My experience with polyurethane bushings are not so good. Maybe they got better, but I don't want to take any chance on such as critical component. At $150 brand new each, it might be worth just getting and a pair of new Toyota ones and call it good, because Toyota bushing are not cheap and I don't like dealing with local shops that do this sort of work.

I'm interested to know what you issues you found with polyurethane. I only recently redid all rear control arms and body mount bushings as polyurethane (needed to replace anyway), and from what I gathered it was an upgrade in terms of durability and resistance to the elements.

For anyone who stumbles across the thread, this is where I ordered my control arms from: 96-02 Toyota 4runner OEM Pair Right Left Rear Back Lower Control Trailing Arm | eBay. I was extremely pleased with the condition of them, although they do come from Arizona, so the lack of rust is probably normal ;)

These are the LCA poly bushings I used, which are a perfect press-fit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...3fcf3582e67411

Energy Suspension does the full control arm bushing set for uppers and lowers: Rear Control Arm Bushings - Toyota 4Runner - 8.3133

As for the hardware, there is an OEM part number, but I picked up all 4 at Fastenal for the price of 1 OEM - grade 10.9 high-strength, M14 bolt, 2(thread pitch)x100mm(length excluding head) with the same threading pattern.. I got 'em $1.50/bolt

Thanks TimmyTimTim for your detailed response. Do you mind letting us how much it cost for you to install the bushings? My experience on poly bushings are mainly from the Energy Suspension ones that I had installed on my ol' 87 Nissan Pathfinder. Unfortunately, they didn't last very long at all. Perhaps, they got better at making them. So, I was not even looking at Moogs or other any non-genuine bushings. $150 for a brand new rear LCA, I thought it was the way to go, because I didn't want to take any chance on this and I plan on keeping the 4Runner awhile.

Just researching this stuff, I was shocked to learn how important these bushings were. I might do it differently if I were to do the work with a press, but at present I don't want to mess with getting more tools.

Yessir, the control arm bushings are extremely important. So much so that I got a heck of a steal on my current '00 highlander edition with E-locker simply because the previous owner couldn't pinpoint the cause of a wobble at speeds. It was the LCA bushings- they were so bad you could move them several millimeters by hand once I got them off the truck.

I ended up spending about $140 on replacing both LCAs ($70), bushings ($60) and hardware ($10). Add $5 in beer and $5 in Sawzall blades to.. er.. persuade rusted hardware...

To me, I absolutely love having the tools to do the jobs I want to do, so this just gave me an excuse to own a hydraulic press. It paid for itself with this job alone. But if you really want to avoid that for the space or whatever reason, you might be able to link up with someone on the forum who has a press. (you will also need some sort of a press sleeve kit, but most who own a press will have one - this is the one I own: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I was able to get mine out with a 2lb sledge and a large pin drift. Use the drift to curl in the edges. Once you get it to a certain point you'll be able to knock them through. I did my LCA bushings this way too. Took about 5-10 minutes per bushing - with rust.

Sawzall works too. You'll still need to use a pin drift to knock it through though if your rust is keeping them in place. Got to be careful that you don't cut to deep into the arm though. A little tiny bit might be OK but a deep cut may weaken the arm.

Great tip for anyone without a press! I'd also like to add that many people have used a torch to melt the bushings out, but I've never tried this so I can't speak for its effectiveness. It's definitely possible to get them out without a press though.

Which LCA bushings did you install JRZEE? I'm curious because if I remember correctly, the Whiteline polyurethane bushings I installed were a rather tight "press fit" - as in, I couldn't just slide them in by hand.

OEM bushings which where a "tap in" fit.

Oh and using a torch on gets the rubber out. The outer sleeve is still in there.