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Old 05-07-2019, 06:25 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaxAndLiz View Post
I just installed a new parking brake cable on my 1999 4Runner. The rear wheels are off the ground. To test I put the 4Runner in Drive and slowly pulled on the parking brake lever in the cabin. I can see the driver-side wheel stopping, but nothing happens on the passenger side. When I pull on the exposed parking brake cable connecting the two sides behind the rear axle, the passenger side wheel stops.

The bell cranks are still original, have not been cleaned but seem to move with ease when I pull on the exposed cable. I have tried to figure out how force is transferred to the passenger wheel, but it's not clear. As far as I can tell the cable is held in a protected casing and directly transfers force from the handle to the driver's side. Please help!

-Sax
I know it's a bit confusing but I did that a week or so ago after a heavy muddy offroading cuz my brakes wont hold and I had the same confusion:
assuming your pads are ok and everything inside the drums is placed properly (check that the internal short piece of cable that the bell crank pulls, is placed properly in its channel otherwise that brake wont hold that wheel as tight) do the following:

1 loosen the two nuts that are on the e-brake lever itself in the cab
2 boot front wheels so the car doesn't move away and lift each rear wheel off the ground (you can do it one by one)
3 remove the two springs on each bell crank
4 detach the ebrake cables from both bell cranks
5 one by one pull by hand each bell crank until you stop hearing the brake pad adjuster mechanism clicking.

Once it stops clicking, you'll feel that when you pull the bell crank the brake pads will hold the wheel and you can't rotate it anymore by hand. Your brake pads are now adjusted to be as close to the drum as possible.

6 attach the brake cable to each bell crank and put the springs back on
7 adjust the cable with the adjusting nut and lock it with the locking nut in the cab It should be around 3 clicks on the cab ebrake lever to hold the 4runner on slight slope (5 degrees)

then start the 4runner and drive at idle speed and pull the e brake all the way. It should be able to stall the engine.
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Last edited by pavelvoivoda; 05-07-2019 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 05-07-2019, 07:53 AM #17
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There is a specific procedure in the FSM for adjusting the bellcranks.

PullIng them out a bunch of times to get the auto adjusters wound up is ok but removing the springs is part of the procedure for setting the gap for the mechanical stop. Which is that bolt in the arm. I think you pull it out until it stops moving and then set the gap around 1/16”. And I’m pretty sure 5 to 7 klicks is the ebrake setting. Don’t get me wrong Three is great and really tight.....


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Old 05-07-2019, 03:22 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
Don’t get me wrong Three is great and really tight.....
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I was quoting the FSM procedure for setting the whole system to work properly by memory. I should have mentioned it. The 5-7 clicks is basically the correct setting but the 3 is only for when on a small slope that it should slightly hold the truck from rolling. It was a good reference point, because everyone has a different arm strength. If you continue to pull it, it should get 7 clicks and then really lock the brakes tight. You are correct tho.

the confusion came when I cleaned the whole brake mechanism on both sides from mudding, without loosening the cable from the inside the cab. I took everything apart cleaned it and put it back together, but because I did move the adjusting bolts on both drums, the one closer to the correct adjustment stopped clicking when it should. The other one was way too far away to be able to adjust to correct position - the pivot point was not enough to be able to click the other side.

So i was explaining that it is easier to first pull by hand the bell cranks until no clicks are heard(instead of adjusting it by pulling the ebrake), and then attach the cable and adjust it to the 7 clicks in the cab. They do mention to adjust the pads to be as close to the drum as possible when installing, but I found it easier to do it before attaching the two springs on the bell cranks.

Hope this clears it up a bit more.
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:06 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavelvoivoda View Post
I know it's a bit confusing but I did that a week or so ago after a heavy muddy offroading cuz my brakes wont hold and I had the same confusion:
...

then start the 4runner and drive at idle speed and pull the e brake all the way. It should be able to stall the engine.
Thanks for this information; I have bookmarked it for future reference. For now things are working with the parking brake. Maybe in a week or two my head will clear of the DIY fog and I will be able to explain everything I experienced fixing my parking brake. I have the FSM, and I might give it another read.

I still don't know how the casing is getting pulled to the left to pull the right side bell crank. The cable runs clean through the casing; how's that exerting force on the casing? If anybody wants to take a picture of the rear parking brake cable and explain it with vector arrows, I am game. I am pretty decent on my physics, so I find it annoying that this confounds me.

-Sax
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:38 PM #20
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Think of the wire going between the bell cranks on either side as a single wire. What's happening when you pulling the parking brake in the cab is that this wire is getting shortened which in turn pulls both bell cranks. If one is sticking, then all that force is just going to the other bell crank rather than getting split between the two. It won't matter if one is tighter than the other, so long as they both are actually moving.
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